Adding a Sub to non-unleashed BO system

[dm5point0]

I see since this post you've added a second sub. I don't figure I need 2 subs. I'll also note I've got a Lightning, but seems all of this setup is 100% compatible/same cheap B&O system.

How is the clarity and volume of the whole system since you are still running factory amp for the door speakers? Are they keeping up with the subs?

Did you disconnect the center speaker or do any other tuning?

I want to do an upgrade so bad, but don't really care to do it in stages and truly don't feel I should be dropping more than a couple thousand into it.

Before you added the second sub looks like you were already in for a bit over $2K.

You note SGS left you set up for future upgrades - is that to do something like add a Navtv Zen A2B device and external amp for the door speakers?

Thanks for your help and blazing the trail.

I love this set up. It was super easy, the speakers are really impressive as well. I know that I could add a Zen set up with amp, but it gets plenty loud for a 40+ yr old LOL. In terms of cost...I added all the bells and whistles to seal up the doors (which I highly suggest), but to be honest going this route you could add as you go. I did no tuning besides the factory EQ settings and the settings on the LC2i and Subs. With one sub it was really nice and clean and much better than stock. With 2...it will really make things thump. My kids say its the back massager! LOL

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[Fastcote]

Just wondering why no one seems to be using the 1212 plug (circled in image)? Is it because it is disabled by default or some other reason?

 

[Fastcote]

For those of you using the LC2i pro, are you having luck with the GTO or AUDIO turn-on settings? I tried both and the unit and sub both stay powered on after I shut down and exit the truck.

If I can't get these to work, is the a remote key-on 12 volt wire handy somewhere in the vicinity of the sub/amp??

 

[BCrippsy38]

For those of you using the LC2i pro, are you having luck with the GTO or AUDIO turn-on settings? I tried both and the unit and sub both stay powered on after I shut down and exit the truck.

If I can't get these to work, is the a remote key-on 12 volt wire handy somewhere in the vicinity of the sub/amp??

How long you waiting to see if it turns off? If I remember correctly when I installed mine there was a delay before it turned off. It wasn't long but it wasn't immediate.

 

[Fastcote]

How long you waiting to see if it turns off? If I remember correctly when I installed mine there was a delay before it turned off. It wasn't long but it wasn't immediate.

I did have a bunch of doors open. I may not have been patient enough. Its in a spot not particularly easy to see by peeking in a window.

I'm just nervous about that tiny little low voltage battery (forgot to mention, this is a Lightning, not and ICE) given all the negative news about dead batteries, especially in the MachE forums.

 

[Fastcote]

I also forgot to mention, I left the B&O sub wired in and just Tee-connected the LC2i in, and placed the kicker were the jack goes (for now). I thought I would spend a week trying to tune the kicker and comparing it to the B&O sub. Is there any reason I should actually take the factory sub out? Will the stock amp have more power for the other speaks if I delete the factory sub?

 

[BCrippsy38]

I did have a bunch of doors open. I may not have been patient enough. Its in a spot not particularly easy to see by peeking in a window.

I'm just nervous about that tiny little low voltage battery given all the negative news about dead batteries, especially in the MachE forums.

Understandable. I'd start by turning off the truck, exit with all the doors closed and give it 10 minutes before checking. Opening a door after that point shouldn't turn the LOC back on. Also if you wired the remote turn on for the amp to the LOC you can also use the blue amp light as a reference.

 

[superfordman]

The GTO is all I ever used in the past, and use its version in the kicker sub as well and have zero issues. It takes a few minutes for it to power down, and it usually powers right back up as soon as you open the doors since the chimes all go through the ACM/DSP. Just put it where you can see it, open a window, shut the truck off, go away for 10-15 minutes, come back and see if its on or off.

 

[Jbcaindo]

I've got a couple NavTV a2b units on the shelf if anyone needs one with some f150g14 pricing.

 

[dm5point0]

I've got a couple NavTV a2b units on the shelf if anyone needs one with some f150g14 pricing.

How much?

 

[GDN]

I love this set up. It was super easy, the speakers are really impressive as well. I know that I could add a Zen set up with amp, but it gets plenty loud for a 40+ yr old LOL. In terms of cost...I added all the bells and whistles to seal up the doors (which I highly suggest), but to be honest going this route you could add as you go. I did no tuning besides the factory EQ settings and the settings on the LC2i and Subs. With one sub it was really nice and clean and much better than stock. With 2...it will really make things thump. My kids say its the back massager! LOL

Would you mind sharing where/how you got your power? I've gone over the edge and bought a system from MTI. Pleased with everything other than their main wiring kit they use. I was wondering if you tapped directly from the battery, which product you used to connect with? Thanks.

 

[dm5point0]

Would you mind sharing where/how you got your power? I've gone over the edge and bought a system from MTI. Pleased with everything other than their main wiring kit they use. I was wondering if you tapped directly from the battery, which product you used to connect with? Thanks.

Yes I have direct from the battery power and ground. I used these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JK9FTZI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, I ran up the passenger's side and then through the rear vents on the back wall of the cab.

I also used this as a good reference on what to do and what not todo as well.

 

[GDN]

Yes I have direct from the battery power and ground. I used these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JK9FTZI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, I ran up the passenger's side and then through the rear vents on the back wall of the cab.

I also used this as a good reference on what to do and what not todo as well.

Perect - thank you. I'm on the right path. I've watched many of his videos and have that same fuse and battery terminal adapter on order, should be here today.

MTI has been good so far with most of the process, but they leave a bit to be desired on their wiring. They use a Stinger kit with a poor fuse for under the hood. They really need to drop that and put together a custom kit. I bought a cable gland too and plan on going through the floor near the back and under the truck to the battery, at least that is what I had planned. I'll look at the rear vents that are back there. I've got a Lightning, so could be a bit different, but most seems to be the same.

Really appreciate the help.

The SGS videos have been really helpful for preparing the doors and installing the sound deadener and speakers. Appreciate all of the shops that are willing to share.

For anyone else going down this path I found this good video for removing the door panels on '21 -'23 trucks.

 

[Nomis]

Thanks! Actually this was a super simple setup, if you did systems back in the day like I did, this is a cakewalk. Just run you battery wire up the trim on the drivers side then through a grommet on the firewall or the little one under the drivers carpet to the battery, run the ground to the smaller post as seen in my picture next to the factory amp. Then run the factor sub speaker wires into the speaker level input for the sub, I Y'd mine so that both the L and R are getting signal into the sub, and boom you're done. Use the auto turn on feature with the Kicker and that makes life even easier.

You'll also need this block off plate if you hopefully plan to remove the sorry excuse for a factory sub https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...ck-off-plate-for-rear-wall-includes-unleashed

I think I actually spent more time taking the factory sub out along with the back trim and what not, cleaning everything back there, installing my "custom" rear cab vent filters, than I did wiring everything for the sub.

Man I just went to order this to Canada and it works out to $111 USD. That is absolutely bonkers in Canadian pesos. @SoundsGoodStereo is that the best you can do on shipping? 59 USD?

 

[Jbcaindo]

Man I just went to order this to Canada and it works out to $111 USD. That is absolutely bonkers in Canadian pesos. @SoundsGoodStereo is that the best you can do on shipping? 59 USD?

Shoot me your address, I may be able to get it to you for less.

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