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staying_tuned

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This is great news, most of the success stories on this amp revolve around using it in bi amp mode. It's great to hear that it works well when used to power all speakers too.

Did you go into forscan to disable your EQ or did you zeroize everything on the radio? I'm going to be sending you quite a few PMS over the next few months as I gather everything to do mine.
I don’t have FORScan but I zero’s out in radio and set it to occupant mode. Yeah, plenty of power for the sharing of a channel with these CS speakers. Final gain on Key is halfway, sub is just over half with zero boost and the lowest crossover point, sounds fantastic.
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Been following this thread and decided to order a set of the SGS block off plates after learning about them from this thread. Just so happens SGS was doing a giveaway for their L3 sound deadening kit. I some how won it and I'm pretty excited. I simply wanted to try out the plates on my front doors and now I'm going all in.

Huge thanks to you for starting this thread, your the reason I won!!
That is awesome. Congrats!
 

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I don’t have FORScan but I zero’s out in radio and set it to occupant mode. Yeah, plenty of power for the sharing of a channel with these CS speakers. Final gain on Key is halfway, sub is just over half with zero boost and the lowest crossover point, sounds fantastic.
I would definitely invest in a one year Forscan subscription. Changing the EQ settings there and re-running the DSP tuning on the Key could make a world of difference. You can also enable/disable a bunch of other features on the truck with it.
 

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forscan will reset your free license if you ask, takes a day or so. I just keep re-sub'n to keep the platform profitable for the dev's time.
 

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I was able to get the kicker key through the tuning phase and I’m really impressed with how much warmth and clarity it introduced. I disconnected both the sub and center channel so the only channels tuned are the ones running off the key (all doors and pillar tweets).
I”m curious how you set up your amp to power all six speakers? I recently had an email discussion with Bruce from Hush Audio. He recommended using bi-amp mode and power the fronts and tweeters, leaving the rears on the stock amp. He also recommended using the center speaker lead to send a signal to a sub in the rear.
 

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I”m curious how you set up your amp to power all six speakers? I recently had an email discussion with Bruce from Hush Audio. He recommended using bi-amp mode and power the fronts and tweeters, leaving the rears on the stock amp. He also recommended using the center speaker lead to send a signal to a sub in the rear.
Stock front wiring runs a single feed which is shared by front door and tweater so I’m powering 4 up front on 2 of the amps channels with the rear two getting the other 2.

The advice you got was very sound and i don’t know a ton but even these very basic kickers are grossly underpowered which is dangerous for the speaker (better to overpower them) and incapable of like party volume entirely. I’m not worried about either because I don’t blast the volume nor ever need it super super loud. I also want my rears in play because music is big in the family and my boys would 100% feel hornswaggled if they suddenly had no speaker and they’d notice too even if I kept my mouth shut hah.

They are quite loud and very clear post tuning at 14-15 on the dial. Family errands we had it at 6 to give you a sense of what the key 200.4 is capable of setup like this. At 15 the HS10 is shaking all the mirrors but not in a sloppy way, very punchy/tight if that makes sense.
 

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I’m looking for simple plug and play. BI-amp and running new tweeter wires is more than I want to do. Your setup is more to my taste - use 100% factory speaker wiring.
 

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I’m looking for simple plug and play. BI-amp and running new tweeter wires is more than I want to do. Your setup is more to my taste - use 100% factory speaker wiring.
If you're going to use the factory wiring make sure that you have a tweeter protector on it. Also there's no harnesses for connecting to the factory wiring -- you'll likely find it easier to run a wire than to try and cut up the factory harness to use its wires
 
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If you're going to use the factory wiring make sure that you have a tweeter protector on it. Also there's no harnesses for connecting to the factory wiring -- you'll likely find it easier to run a wire than to try and cut up the factory harness to use its wires
These CS speakers came with an inline passive crossover but is there an additional measure that should be taken? I hadn’t heard of a tweeter protector. There was plenty of wire left on the stock tweeter to cut and connect the new tweeters. On the right side purple/white are positive, on the left pure white is positive for anyone leveraging the wires.
 

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Tweeter protector are simple inline crossovers. The factory speakers have them at the terminals on the tweeter.
 

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Power dude.
Stock front wiring runs a single feed which is shared by front door and tweater so I’m powering 4 up front on 2 of the amps channels with the rear two getting the other 2.

The advice you got was very sound and i don’t know a ton but even these very basic kickers are grossly underpowered which is dangerous for the speaker (better to overpower them) and incapable of like party volume entirely. I’m not worried about either because I don’t blast the volume nor ever need it super super loud. I also want my rears in play because music is big in the family and my boys would 100% feel hornswaggled if they suddenly had no speaker and they’d notice too even if I kept my mouth shut hah.

They are quite loud and very clear post tuning at 14-15 on the dial. Family errands we had it at 6 to give you a sense of what the key 200.4 is capable of setup like this. At 15 the HS10 is shaking all the mirrors but not in a sloppy way, very punchy/tight if that makes sense.
There's no such thing as underpowering a speaker.
Over powering them encroaches on their thermal ability.
 

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This is the system I will be going with for my non BO XLT PB. Super excited.
Should I be concerned at all about power draw from my PB battery?

Ford F-150 Under $1k audio upgrade for non B&O system begins. IMG_2724
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