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SoundsGoodStereo

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Where do you do this in FORScan? I am not seeing it on the common change tab.

In the ACM ASBUILT, you go to code 727-01-02, and more than likely on the new trucks, the first four digits = 0901. You will change this to 0900 with the last digit being the EQ digit.
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OK so my truck is an XL. No B&O. Just drove it and turned volume up past 14/15 and I can def hear the Kicker bass volume increase as well. So I’m thinking the factory radio did/does not have bass roll off “programmed” into it on those XL trim trucks.

But my hearing is shot and if someone wants to disagree I can’t argue.
 

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OK so my truck is an XL. No B&O. Just drove it and turned volume up past 14/15 and I can def hear the Kicker bass volume increase as well. So I’m thinking the factory radio did/does not have bass roll off “programmed” into it on those XL trim trucks.

But my hearing is shot and if someone wants to disagree I can’t argue.
It does not, only the B&O has roll-off. The Non-B&O trucks have a crazy EQ curve that removes the low bass from the interior speakers so you cannot blow them. If Ford allowed your door speakers to play low frequencies, it would be a warranty dealership nightmare replacing speakers
 

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It does not, only the B&O has roll-off. The Non-B&O trucks have a crazy EQ curve that removes the low bass from the interior speakers so you cannot blow them. If Ford allowed your door speakers to play low frequencies, it would be a warranty dealership nightmare replacing speakers
Thanks

That explains why the factory system in my reg cab sounded like a transistor radio.
 

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Thanks a ton for posting this, and especially the clear and helpful photos.

What made your write up especially helpful is the relative dearth of obscure (to the beginner) acronyms. Often times, threads like these are so full of acronyms that it’s really hard to follow.

Also very helpful to me is that you’re not gunning for a balls-to-the-wall, spare-no-expense, on the most incredible sound system ever on four wheels. My days for that are long past (ask me sometime about the Bose system I put in my 1979 Saab when I was a young lad). Like you, I am very interested in some basic improvements and low hanging fruit, like replacing the very poor stock speakers.
 

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Got the key in and fired up, no sub yet but the line is in place and I've got the 12v wired and ready. I need the car seats this evening so I can't yank them out just yet but will later tonight.

I initially set the gain at about 1/4 from max, logic being the front component and tweeter are each sharing a single channel. Well, that almost blew me out of the truck at volume 5. I dialed the key way down to just shy of half and it gets to about 13 before its too loud. It sounds amazing, I haven't tuned it yet but its pretty incredible as-is. If there wasn't a DSP feature I would have been 150% happy with it right now, can't wait to run the tuning program.

Key is just sitting in the glove box right now, I wanted to ensure everything (minus the sub) works as it should before buttoning it up.
 
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Ok yeah mounting the key was way easier than I thought, this is starting to become a pattern. So grateful for all these folks making harnesses and such great info posted here, this speaker upgrade has been a blast because of it. I'm sneaking away to fiddle on it every moment I get.

As @TexasTruck posted here, I mounted in what I thought was the exact same location however I didn't have to trim anything at all and the glove box opens & closes fully without any interference. Mine is an XLT so maybe higher trims have more stuff back there to get in the way? Not sure but that was a nice surprise. Here is a close-up of the location. I used velcro and just angled and pulled it against the upper compartment while tucking it into the fascia that the main glove box stops on.

Here it is fully open, you can kind of see the logo and such back in there.

Ford F-150 Under $1k audio upgrade for non B&O system begins. kicker-key-mount-glovebox
 
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Ok I went ahead and added the sub, wires are ran properly but I've got it just sitting under my rear. I forgot the rears are split so I only needed to pull 1 car seat.

I was a little apprehensive given I'd be testing everything but sure enough, it all just worked. The sub hits impossibly hard for the size, I dialed it down to just over half on the gain and it was still shaking my center/rear-view mirror with the volume at 10.

I'll get it tuned up and the sub properly mounted this weekend for sure, all downhill now!

Ford F-150 Under $1k audio upgrade for non B&O system begins. HS10-f150
 

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Ok I went ahead and added the sub, wires are ran properly but I've got it just sitting under my rear. I forgot the rears are split so I only needed to pull 1 car seat.

I was a little apprehensive given I'd be testing everything but sure enough, it all just worked. The sub hits impossibly hard for the size, I dialed it down to just over half on the gain and it was still shaking my center/rear-view mirror with the volume at 10.

I'll get it tuned up and the sub properly mounted this weekend for sure, all downhill now!

HS10-f150.jpg
Should fit behind the seat w/out issue. I've got a much larger one back there. Someone put 2 of them back there.
Ford F-150 Under $1k audio upgrade for non B&O system begins. 1734138175421-b5
 

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Been following this thread and decided to order a set of the SGS block off plates after learning about them from this thread. Just so happens SGS was doing a giveaway for their L3 sound deadening kit. I some how won it and I'm pretty excited. I simply wanted to try out the plates on my front doors and now I'm going all in.

Huge thanks to you for starting this thread, your the reason I won!!
 

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Been following this thread and decided to order a set of the SGS block off plates after learning about them from this thread. Just so happens SGS was doing a giveaway for their L3 sound deadening kit. I some how won it and I'm pretty excited. I simply wanted to try out the plates on my front doors and now I'm going all in.

Huge thanks to you for starting this thread, your the reason I won!!
Congrats!
 
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Been following this thread and decided to order a set of the SGS block off plates after learning about them from this thread. Just so happens SGS was doing a giveaway for their L3 sound deadening kit. I some how won it and I'm pretty excited. I simply wanted to try out the plates on my front doors and now I'm going all in.

Huge thanks to you for starting this thread, your the reason I won!!
That rocks, congrats! I’m going to order the rear plates from them for sure. After hearing what these entry level speakers can do in a prepped door I can’t wait to do the same in the rear, I think the 6.5” CS speakers for the rear are something like $75.
 
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I was able to get the kicker key through the tuning phase and I’m really impressed with how much warmth and clarity it introduced. I disconnected both the sub and center channel so the only channels tuned are the ones running off the key (all doors and pillar tweets).

it failed the first 4 times due to my own ignorance. The volume was at 2 or 3 but it was very loud, instructions stated it needed to be above conversation level so I just left the dial alone. What it means is to ignore what you hear and dial your volume to where you remember it being somewhat loud. Since it was loud before I turned it up, it kept failing. I then turned the dial up to 18 and realized it didn’t matter what I set it too, the amp itself controls volume during tuning and I just needed parity on the dial. As soon as I set it at 18 and ran the sequence again it was successful.

Out of curiosity I then plugged the center speaker back in and wow it sounded like trash. Its amazing how terrible it was and had no idea hah.
 

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This is great news, most of the success stories on this amp revolve around using it in bi amp mode. It's great to hear that it works well when used to power all speakers too.

Did you go into forscan to disable your EQ or did you zeroize everything on the radio? I'm going to be sending you quite a few PMS over the next few months as I gather everything to do mine.
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