Under $1k audio upgrade for non B&O system begins.

[tom v]

I think that's what these AudioControl LGD units are used for. I took a photo to sanity check things, I find it hard to believe it's really this simple (last audio install was 15+ years ago) and sure enough the only thing I need to worry about are ground and power. The rest is just plugging it into the audio interface on the back of the OEM head unit.

Have a gander at the below, notice that blue AC-LGD which runs out to the sub's line input channels. I guess I'll know for sure soon enough but they've got this pretty dialed in. I'm already shocked at how much better it sounds and I've only done the front door & tweeters.

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I think that's what these AudioControl LGD units are used for. I took a photo to sanity check things, I find it hard to believe it's really this simple (last audio install was 15+ years ago) and sure enough the only thing I need to worry about are ground and power. The rest is just plugging it into the audio interface on the back of the OEM head unit.

Have a gander at the below, notice that blue AC-LGD which runs out to the sub's line input channels. I guess I'll know for sure soon enough but they've got this pretty dialed in. I'm already shocked at how much better it sounds and I've only done the front door & tweeters.

what did you "tap" into for the AC-LGD for the sub? I have done everything above except add the powered sub. that is next!

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[staying_tuned]

what did you "tap" into for the AC-LGD for the sub? I have done everything above except add the powered sub. that is next!

I didn't and don't plan to tap anything, it's all integrated into the harness itself. To be clear the only things I'm actually plugging in are:

1. Door 6x9 speakers to OEM speaker wires via adapters
2. A-Pillar tweeters, no adapter on this but these popped into existing bracket and were easy to butt splice into existing wires.
3. I'll be plugging in the big harness to the back of the OEM audio control portion of the head-unit
4. Run power and ground (pre-wired, just gotta run it) for amp & key

And that's it unless I'm missing something.

 

[tom v]

I didn't and don't plan to tap anything, it's all integrated into the harness itself. To be clear the only things I'm actually plugging in are:

1. Door 6x9 speakers to OEM speaker wires via adapters
2. A-Pillar tweeters, no adapter on this but these popped into existing bracket and were easy to butt splice into existing wires.
3. I'll be plugging in the big harness to the back of the OEM audio control portion of the head-unit
4. Run power and ground (pre-wired, just gotta run it) for amp & key

And that's it unless I'm missing something.

cool. I used the PAC harness to add an amp. same idea as what you did. i don't believe there is a sub signal output on that harness. I will need to get a signal from somewhere for a powered amp.

 

[Je1279]

I'm pretty sure the LGD is to provide a ~20ohm load to the ACM to prevent it from freaking out and turning off signal to the speakers. Kicker has the 46KISLOAD4 which serves the same purpose.

 

[Graygoose2021]

Base audio I dont have the KEYLOC, which will fix the bass rolloff. SG uses the KEY5001 amp, which has the KEYLOC inside to flatten the factory EQ to flat.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

I know that most of the Audio Control line output converters have a feature called AccuBass to allow you to correct for bass roll off. Does flattening the EQ via Forscan solve this issue as well?

AccuBass does a terrible job at attempting to resolve the roll-off in these trucks. It's a neat technology, but it's not "throw this at every vehicle" perfect technology.


On a Non-Amplified, just use ForSCAN to turn the EQ off and you are good to go.

 

[EcoB259]

I also got my stuff from Bruce Watson at Hush Audio.
Here is what I did for a sub that’s not over powering Boom but adds a nice bass to your music for us old guys. Bruce is more than helpful all the way through install

 

[staying_tuned]

@EcoB259 man that looks sweet and so tidy!

I was able to get the harness in place. I opted to run all amp power & signal over to the drivers side since I've already got a boost line running through that big grommet on the firewall for my P3 vent gauge. I opted to run the key amp wiring over to the right to mount it behind the glovebox like so many folks here have done.

I'm still pretty flabbergasted at how truly plug and play this is. I didn't have to remove the entire HU/audio unit, just the upper portion to grant access to the plugs. A stick magnet was helpful getting the audio units bolts out. I could feel them no problem and clearly see them but the dark chasm below was looking pretty all consuming. No bolts coming out of there if dropped.

Here is a pic, that bundle on the left is from the driver footwell which will connect to the HS10 amped sub. The stuff on the right is coming out of the glove box, that is for the key amp as mentioned above. This whole install is like a bunch of predictable, easy and small baby steps. It's pretty pleasant and fun and I'm regretting not at lest upgrading JUST the speakers before now, they sound great with no tuning off the stock head-unit already.

 

[EcoB259]

The hardest thing for me was getting the harness down through the dash. Everything else went smooth. I used Morrel speakers in doors and tweets.

 

[tom v]

Nice setup. Where did you get the signal input to the powered sub from?

 

[EcoB259]

I did this 3 years ago but if I remember correctly all wires came through the harness I got from Bruce at Hush Audio.
He even labels all wires for you. Makes it easy. He also answered my calls at night while I was installing if I had a question.

 

[staying_tuned]

The hardest thing for me was getting the harness down through the dash. Everything else went smooth. I used Morrel speakers in doors and tweets.

Nice nice, yeah Joe at PNP highly recommended the Morels if I wanted more power. Not much trouble getting the wires down, I had my light down in the footwell so I could see paths/light from up top and just chased them.

 

[staying_tuned]

Nice setup. Where did you get the signal input to the powered sub from?

Joe at https://plugnplaykits.com/ - The website is about 20 years too old but he's super responsive and ships fast, pricing was great too. He has a ton of different configs for F150s.

 

[FORDTEXAS]

Never even heard of bass roll off until your post. So I searched and I understand it now. I went to SGS site but could not find anything on it there.

Do you know what they do to fix it? Do they modify the KK 200.4? Maybe the amp within the 51HS10? Something else?

Thanks

From SGS:

“As you might have already experienced, the factory B&O systems will roll back the bass over volume 14 and it will come in and out depending on the song.”

I think it’s B&O only but if not I hope to reach out to PNP and see if they integrated a solution into their harness. I’ll get some better shots of it but he’s got what looks to be a crossover inline or something.

@SoundsGoodStereo

 

[bcb97]

AccuBass does a terrible job at attempting to resolve the roll-off in these trucks. It's a neat technology, but it's not "throw this at every vehicle" perfect technology.


On a Non-Amplified, just use ForSCAN to turn the EQ off and you are good to go.

Where do you do this in FORScan? I am not seeing it on the common change tab.

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