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Transfer Switch Gameplan - Thoughts?

charmai101

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It’s hard to follow what everyone is talking about when it comes to electrical wiring without a diagram. So I make this diagram for what I’m planning to do. Does it look like it will work? Thanks in advance!

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HammaMan

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It’s hard to follow what everyone is talking about when it comes to electrical wiring without a diagram. So I make this diagram for what I’m planning to do. Does it look like it will work? Thanks in advance!
No, the ground cannot be joined to the neutral at all. The neutral and ground bonding is done at the truck and must run as 4 discrete wires to whatever it is you're powering. I think you're misunderstanding how the transfer switch connects. If you connect the 3 pole transfer switch correctly it should work.

Your meter will be attached to, if not containing an OCP device and will be the MAIN panel containing the N/G bond (as well as the point where the earth ground connection is made). The transfer switch with have 4 discrete wires. 3 of which are switched and wholly isolated from each other with only the earthed ground remaining in continuity regardless of switch position (its run comes from the main panel and not another earthing point). When the switch activates it removes the down-stream panel's bonded neutral as it occurs before the switch. The backup power source contains a NG bond which is why the neutral must be switched in the first place to isolate the NG bond occurring at the MAIN.
 
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charmai101

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No, the ground cannot be joined to the neutral at all. The neutral and ground bonding is done at the truck and must run as 4 discrete wires to whatever it is you're powering. I think you're misunderstanding how the transfer switch connects. If you connect the 3 pole transfer switch correctly it should work.
I corrected the neutral and ground connection at the transfer switch. I’m trying to find a 3-pole transfer switch, but couldn’t find one, so I don’t know it’s supposed to wire.
 

HammaMan

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I corrected the neutral and ground connection at the transfer switch. I’m trying to find a 3-pole transfer switch, but couldn’t find one, so I don’t know it’s supposed to wire.
We've pretty much beat this topic to death across several posts. Keep in mind if you're going to get the meter pulled to install such a thing (if your meter has a main panel you won't need to have the meter pulled), you will likely need permitting and sign off of approval before they'll put the meter back. Post pics of anything you have a question about. The easiest method is a breaker interlock, and when used in conjunction with the properly labeled dog bone described above for the PPOB, proper functionality will be maintained at minimal cost while also being able to connect another generator in the same manner.
 

Hullguy

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I respect your opinions on the subject, but "because _____ says so" isn't a valid response on your suggestion to the risk involved. The run from the vehicle to the outlet is unnecessarily protected by GFI in whole. The outlet is connected to a neutral bonded ground on its run from the panel to the outlet. What fault path do you believe exists on this configuration that doesn't on a utility derived source of electrons..

It's my opinion of where this issue pops up is thinking back to no-ground systems that aren't used today. Those systems could have all sorts of issues with voltage accumulation due to no earthing zero points. This configuration does contain an earth bond. All of the panel's GFI functionality is intact. There's no risk of transients or other similar oddities that appear with ungrounded systems.

So please describe what scenario you see as being a point of contention for this exact use case, a GFI protected power source that can deliver precisely 31 amps before instantaneous OCP kicks in. Code is written for the least common denominator. The outlet is wired for such. This special device-specific interconnect dog-bone's existence should occur only labeled for use with the PPOB while connecting to a NEC compliant structure, removing LCD. The design being a short dog bone significantly reduces its utility elsewhere.
”What fault path do you believe exists on this configuration that doesn't on a utility derived source of electrons..”.
“Neutral-to-ground bond is needed to properly operate the circuit breakers. Over Current Protection Devices (OCPD) such as circuit breakers and fuses actually require a short and intense INCREASE in electrical current (a short) in order to detect the fault and cut the circuit off.”. The Inverse Time Element.
When you remove the ground from the Powerboost the neutral is no longer bonded. There becomes an open circuit on the ground system as there is no connection between the house Service Ground and the Powerboost. If you run the house ground to the wrong transfer switch or rely on an interlock there is still no connection to the ground on the PB. And there isn’t any connection to the utility!
Code is written to protect people and property. The amount of electrical fires has dropped so much because of the Code that 93% of most emergency calls to fire departments are medical.
You will never find a dog bone with a ground removed that is UL listed, (which all electrical equipment installed has to have), due to liability.
Lastly, we have spent many thousands of dollars on this amazing piece of equipment. What is $1500 to install the correct UL listed equipment to make it work?
Don’t forget a ground fault is not the same as overcurrent protection.
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charmai101

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We've pretty much beat this topic to death across several posts.
Yeah we do, but it's like Michael Myers, he always come back to life. The code compliant method to wire the Powerboost to feed a whole house is still not conclusive. I wish someone who's an certified electrician can come up with some type of wiring schematic to enlighten all of us. Electricity is more complicated than people think.
 

charmai101

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I've never heard of the term "dog bone", if it's not in the NEC, I'd be hesitant to try it.
 

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“Neutral-to-ground bond is needed to properly operate the circuit breakers. Over Current Protection Devices (OCPD) such as circuit breakers and fuses actually require a short and intense INCREASE in electrical current (a short) in order to detect the fault and cut the circuit off.”. The Inverse Time Element.
When you remove the ground from the Powerboost the neutral is no longer bonded. There becomes an open circuit on the ground system as there is no connection between the house Service Ground and the Powerboost. If you run the house ground to the wrong transfer switch or rely on an interlock there is still no connection to the ground on the PB. And there isn’t any connection to the utility!
The N/G bond of the structure is still present. That's what trips the truck's GFI in the first place. The panel and all breakers will continue to operate as they should. The ground has nothing to do with breaker tripping unless whatever failure mode occurs contacts hot to case ground if it's 3 prong. This is the exact same level of safety provided by utility source with one exception, you can't overload the PB, it just shuts itself down. It's not a dumb breaker, it looks at current draw and immediately shuts down before it reaches 32 amps.
Code is written to protect people and property. The amount of electrical fires has dropped so much because of the Code that 93% of most emergency calls to fire departments are medical.
You will never find a dog bone with a ground removed that is UL listed, (which all electrical equipment installed has to have), due to liability.
None of the amazon dog bones are UL listed. You have to pay for a UL listing. Most of the stuff coming in from china isn't UL listed. Trying to inject common electrical fire issues, which have precisely fuckall to do with this discussion is disingenuous at best. Loose / poor receptacles are the #1 cause of electrical fires which is why AFIs came into code 20 years ago. These fire-catching receptacles are UL listed too -- didn't they get the memo they're immune from failure?
Lastly, we have spent many thousands of dollars on this amazing piece of equipment. What is $1500 to install the correct UL listed equipment to make it work?
Don’t forget a ground fault is not the same as overcurrent protection.
How many generator back-feeds via interlocks are double neutral bonded? Pretty much all of them. Portable generators are bonded and every electrician installs a 2 pole interlock for the typical back feed. That's neither to code nor UL compliant -- and the #1 killer with backfed generators, carbon monoxide. The outlets causing fires from being old and worn, those are UL listed. I'm looking for a legitimate answer to the question and all I'm getting is "defer to authority". That's on par with saying the label on a generator that says "Use outdoors only" is what makes them deadly. The CO, a byproduct of combustion makes them deadly. Not the sticker.

If you don't have any fault-path examples of this installation that you can point to regarding its failure mode, just say it, but to come out and pretend that a 3 conductor feed from utility has some magic unicorn protections over the same from another source is bad faith. I'm not looking for argument or suggestions to defer to authority. I'm looking for a legitimate hazard. We could go 100 pages into 'what abouts', but the issue at hand is simple. For someone who has a 2 pole interlock, or even a 2 pole transfer switch with bonded neutral, who can rely on their double-bonded portable generator, but trips the PB under the same circumstances, the solution is the little dog bone described above. Someone who has a 3 pole switch isn't encountering the issue.


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Hullguy

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The N/G bond of the structure is still present. That's what trips the truck's GFI in the first place. The panel and all breakers will continue to operate as they should. The ground has nothing to do with breaker tripping unless whatever failure mode occurs contacts hot to case ground if it's 3 prong. This is the exact same level of safety provided by utility source with one exception, you can't overload the PB, it just shuts itself down. It's not a dumb breaker, it looks at current draw and immediately shuts down before it reaches 32 amps.

None of the amazon dog bones are UL listed. You have to pay for a UL listing. Most of the stuff coming in from china isn't UL listed. Trying to inject common electrical fire issues, which have precisely fuckall to do with this discussion is disingenuous at best. Loose / poor receptacles are the #1 cause of electrical fires which is why AFIs came into code 20 years ago. These fire-catching receptacles are UL listed too -- didn't they get the memo they're immune from failure?

How many generator back-feeds via interlocks are double neutral bonded? Pretty much all of them. Portable generators are bonded and every electrician installs a 2 pole interlock for the typical back feed. That's neither to code nor UL compliant -- and the #1 killer with backfed generators, carbon monoxide. The outlets causing fires from being old and worn, those are UL listed. I'm looking for a legitimate answer to the question and all I'm getting is "defer to authority". That's on par with saying the label on a generator that says "Use outdoors only" is what makes them deadly. The CO, a byproduct of combustion makes them deadly. Not the sticker.

If you don't have any fault-path examples of this installation that you can point to regarding its failure mode, just say it, but to come out and pretend that a 3 conductor feed from utility has some magic unicorn protections over the same from another source is bad faith. I'm not looking for argument or suggestions to defer to authority. I'm looking for a legitimate hazard. We could go 100 pages into 'what abouts', but the issue at hand is simple. For someone who has a 2 pole interlock, or even a 2 pole transfer switch with bonded neutral, who can rely on their double-bonded portable generator, but trips the PB under the same circumstances, the solution is the little dog bone described above. Someone who has a 3 pole switch isn't encountering the issue.


horse-dead.gif
Where does the normal power NG bond connect to the Powerboost If you cut the ground?
and the fire issues I brought are as proof on how following the legal document, National Electrical Code, minimize the effects of injury to you and your property!
Id ask you to have the local Wire Inspector to come out and approve an installation that has the ground removed!
Then, id ask you to have an insurance adjuster come out and approve the installation with the ground removed. Cause the insurance company is not paying if heaven forbid something happens with this work around
 

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Where does the normal power NG bond connect to the Powerboost If you cut the ground?
and the fire issues I brought are as proof on how following the legal document, National Electrical Code, minimize the effects of injury to you and your property!
Id ask you to have the local Wire Inspector to come out and approve an installation that has the ground removed!
Then, id ask you to have an insurance adjuster come out and approve the installation with the ground removed. Cause the insurance company is not paying if heaven forbid something happens with this work around
All of the building's wiring is as it should be. You're taking exception to the little PB bypass unit that isn't part of the structure. The ground for that run is in the same spot the utility's ground is with the exception being that it's cord run has GFI protection on it.

I'm still waiting for your failure mode analysis. What is this mystery failure mode you hint at but do not share? I ask about your failure suggestion each time, and it's yet to be answered. I'm turning blue over here waiting on it.
 

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Hamma:

If you know of any threads where this issue is well discussed I'd appreciate the links.

Do I understand your thought is to connect PB to home L1/L2/N, while relying on homes ground for circuit faults?? The assumption being the PB won't error?

Has they been tested? Known to work?

Was I you I would post this on the Mike Holt forum.

As you know know, N/G are electrically the same, but with very different purposes. Personally, I would use said connection, but I would restrict access to the wire 'adapter' and back while the truck was running.

Back in the day a common answer to this was to separate the bond in the generator. Has this been considered on PB?
 

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Hull:

If we skip fear mongering, is not the only concern the truck now now has no logical ground path? It certainly has one electrically. And since Ford bonded same... I guess I too have a hard time seeing the danger. Is it a mild perversion of intent? Yea.
 

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Hamma, one thought: I sorta think utility itself grounds at the pole. The idea being the earth provides an alternate path back to the grid. In your scenario the alternate path via ground to the power source (PB) does not exist (and cannot, I believe).
 

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Do I understand your thought is to connect PB to home L1/L2/N
Yes
while relying on homes ground for circuit faults?? The assumption being the PB won't error?
The operation is the same as the utility's feed
Has they been tested? Known to work?
Yes
Was I you I would post this on the Mike Holt forum.
Mike Holt is one of the guys that contributes to the NEC, or has in the past. I'm on that forum under another name. I don't need to ask the question in regards to how it will play out. The question won't be answered. Though I could phrase it in a manner that removes code from the picture. I don't however expect the caliber of mind needed to answer that question to be there on the thread. You have to be careful around people conditioned to appeal to authority, it can result in cultish behavior. They're conditioned to defer to it forgoing thought on the topic. That has no utility to me, I can read.
As you know know, N/G are electrically the same, but with very different purposes. Personally, I would use said connection, but I would restrict access to the wire 'adapter' and back while the truck was running.
I wouldn't say they're the same. They're bonded, but current shouldn't be on the ground but can be on the neutral as it's returning to the source. With the typical install of a generator interlock, often done with a 2 pole breaker, any portable generator connected to such wired configuration will be passing the delta of L1 and L2 back to the generator equally on the ground and the neutral. That's not to code, but that's just what you get with a breaker interlock.

The ground for appliances and other things that utilize it is there in case of the device faulting out or being drenched in water. You'll still find many appliances and devices that don't use the ground as they take a double insulation approach to protect from faults.

Back in the day a common answer to this was to separate the bond in the generator. Has this been considered on PB?
DO NOT do that. Don't touch the truck. I wouldn't be modifying generators either. The current is trying to get back to the generator.

I categorize this approach in the same manner that 240v only subpanels are created, LABELING. The additional approach of keeping it very short, say 12" or less is to eliminate its utility for use in other applications. Labeling can be achieved by writing on paper and wrapping it around the jumper with a decent packing tape. Make it simple and ominous.
"Warning, wiring configuration changed
This will damage whatever is plugged into it"
 
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Hullguy

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I ask you all, if you cut the ground at the truck, where does it connect to the utility ground or the house grounding system? Why has the NEC had a provision that the neutral be bonded only once at the service since the early 20’s if you think it’s not necessary?
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