Trans Dipstick - How the Heck Do You Get it Out?

[JohnTrigger]

I still haven't gotten the plug loose.

Picked up 19mm 3/8" flange nut crows feet. Cannot get it over the top of the plug.

On my powerboost, there seems to be a layer of insulation all around the transmission. Like an asphalt adhesive with one side (outer) that is foil. I'd be curious to know if this is all the trucks or only PB.

But anyway, that insulation is also in the area with the plug. The crows feet are too thick and therefore cannot fit in the gap between the plug and the insulation.

I may have to move to trying the other suggestions in this thread. Or just take it to a trusted mechanic and pay him $200 to do it for me. Gotta admit its starting to get to me. Even when under there just staring cats in the face, knowing they're gonna be blazing hot while horsing around with getting the dipstick out. I honestly would rather Ford had just charged us an extra $25/truck or whatever and included a dipstick or some sort of setup where you just fill it up until it starts leaking out of the fill hole, etc.

I just used an open end longer wrench on an angle and could reach it. Mine is not PB though.

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[Jerome10]

Just FYI I finally got it loose today, engine cold.

19mm 6-sided socket plus a flex-head ratchet. Picked up this extendable flex-head Hart at Walmart for about $25. https://harttools.com/products/3-8-drive-extendable-ratchet-with-flexible-head

No problem with the right tool.

I'm clearly going to need to get some heat gloves. Its awkward under there without a lift. Not looking forward to the noise and heat to check this silly fluid level.

There is absolutely no way to get an OK reading with cold fluid, correct?

 

[FirstFord]

There is absolutely no way to get an OK reading with cold fluid, correct?

Correct. And not warm, but HOT! If I recall correctly, the minimum is 206 degrees - anything less will likely produce an inaccurate reading. You may have to gently rev the engine a few times while in gear to help elevate the temperature. Sort of similar to what we called "power-braking" way back in the day...

 

[Tim]

I check oil in everything – lawn mowers, garden tillers, air compressors, cars, trucks, transmissions, differentials, etc.

When it came to the transmissions on my various trucks, I wondered why I need to check the transmission fluid hot?

Aren’t all Ford transmissions used in our trucks interchangeable?

Aren’t they made of the same materials with the same castings, internal parts, clutches, etc. – or are some transmissions made of different materials so that they expand or absorb fluid more or less than others?

Is the fluid in my transmission special so that it will expand more or less than the guy’s down the street?

Does Ford heat the transmissions and the transmission fluids to 270 degrees or whatever temperature they specify before they add the fluid to the transmission?

I’m guessing that Ford adds X number of quarts of room temperature fluid to each room temperature transmission at the factory and moves it down the line.


Why are we checking the fluid level in transmissions?

If there is evidence of a leak or malfunction, then checking fluid level is important but if there are no leaks, where would the fluid go?

I’m going with the thought that Ford adds the correct amount of transmission fluid at the factory and if there are no leaks and the transmission works OK then let it be and minimize the chance of dirt getting into the transmission when you remove the dipstick.

If checking transmission fluid is part of your maintenance procedure then park the vehicle on a level location and let it cool overnight or for whatever period seems correct to normalize things.

Once conditions are normalized, remove the dip stick, make note of the fluid level and use this as a baseline for future comparisons.

Dipstick too short to read fluid level of a cool transmission?

Use a Popsicle stick – preferably clean – or something similar to check the level. Keep the stick or record the measurements from the stick for future comparisons.

I think that even if Ford uses some exotic procedure to fill the transmissions, using a cool baseline should work for your individual transmission barring leaks or malfunction.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

I check oil in everything – lawn mowers, garden tillers, air compressors, cars, trucks, transmissions, differentials, etc.

When it came to the transmissions on my various trucks, I wondered why I need to check the transmission fluid hot?

Aren’t all Ford transmissions used in our trucks interchangeable?

Aren’t they made of the same materials with the same castings, internal parts, clutches, etc. – or are some transmissions made of different materials so that they expand or absorb fluid more or less than others?

Is the fluid in my transmission special so that it will expand more or less than the guy’s down the street?

Does Ford heat the transmissions and the transmission fluids to 270 degrees or whatever temperature they specify before they add the fluid to the transmission?

I’m guessing that Ford adds X number of quarts of room temperature fluid to each room temperature transmission at the factory and moves it down the line.


Why are we checking the fluid level in transmissions?

If there is evidence of a leak or malfunction, then checking fluid level is important but if there are no leaks, where would the fluid go?

I’m going with the thought that Ford adds the correct amount of transmission fluid at the factory and if there are no leaks and the transmission works OK then let it be and minimize the chance of dirt getting into the transmission when you remove the dipstick.

If checking transmission fluid is part of your maintenance procedure then park the vehicle on a level location and let it cool overnight or for whatever period seems correct to normalize things.

Once conditions are normalized, remove the dip stick, make note of the fluid level and use this as a baseline for future comparisons.

Dipstick too short to read fluid level of a cool transmission?

Use a Popsicle stick – preferably clean – or something similar to check the level. Keep the stick or record the measurements from the stick for future comparisons.

I think that even if Ford uses some exotic procedure to fill the transmissions, using a cool baseline should work for your individual transmission barring leaks or malfunction.

Wow…… I don’t even know where to start

 

[Twg1]

Is the level supposed to be between the 5 and 6 like other 2021+, or is Powerboost a different level on dipstick?

 

[SALEEN961]

Is the level supposed to be between the 5 and 6 like other 2021+, or is Powerboost a different level on dipstick?

On the 3.5PB the level is set between 3 and 4, trans in a 3.5PB is a 10R80MHT and not a normal 10R80 where the level would get set between 5 and 6.

The procedure is also a little different for the powerboost because you have to enter Engine Running Diagnostic Mode to set the fluid level.

Follow the steps below to enter the engine running diagnostic mode:

1. Place the vehicle in PARK.
2. Push the start button to enter the accessory mode.
3. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
4. Steps 5 & 6 should be performed within 15 seconds after completing Step 3.
5. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
6. Press the brake pedal and push the start button so that the vehicle is in drivable state.
7. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
8. NOTE: The READY TO DRIVE or DRIVE symbol should be flashing on the instrument cluster at a regular interval when the Engine Running diagnostic mode is active.

When this sequence is complete, the vehicle enters the diagnostic mode and the engine should remain running continuously.

 

[Twg1]

On the 3.5PB the level is set between 3 and 4, trans in a 3.5PB is a 10R80MHT and not a normal 10R80 where the level would get set between 5 and 6.

The procedure is also a little different for the powerboost because you have to enter Engine Running Diagnostic Mode to set the fluid level.

Follow the steps below to enter the engine running diagnostic mode:

1. Place the vehicle in PARK.
2. Push the start button to enter the accessory mode.
3. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
4. Steps 5 & 6 should be performed within 15 seconds after completing Step 3.
5. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
6. Press the brake pedal and push the start button so that the vehicle is in drivable state.
7. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
8. NOTE: The READY TO DRIVE or DRIVE symbol should be flashing on the instrument cluster at a regular interval when the Engine Running diagnostic mode is active.

When this sequence is complete, the vehicle enters the diagnostic mode and the engine should remain running continuously.

Man…that is hugely helpful. Thank you! Doing this service next week and haven't found these specifics. My dealer literally wouldn't do it with 40k miles. Said it was too soon and was highly NOT recommended.

 

[Aonarch]

To help bring the transmission up to temp faster, brake hold it while on a lift, or brake hold while driving around at slower speeds.

 

[Mosey]

On the 3.5PB the level is set between 3 and 4, trans in a 3.5PB is a 10R80MHT and not a normal 10R80 where the level would get set between 5 and 6.

The procedure is also a little different for the powerboost because you have to enter Engine Running Diagnostic Mode to set the fluid level.

Follow the steps below to enter the engine running diagnostic mode:

1. Place the vehicle in PARK.
2. Push the start button to enter the accessory mode.
3. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
4. Steps 5 & 6 should be performed within 15 seconds after completing Step 3.
5. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals.
6. Press the brake pedal and push the start button so that the vehicle is in drivable state.
7. Press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal together for 5 seconds.
8. NOTE: The READY TO DRIVE or DRIVE symbol should be flashing on the instrument cluster at a regular interval when the Engine Running diagnostic mode is active.

When this sequence is complete, the vehicle enters the diagnostic mode and the engine should remain running continuously.

I cannot get my PB into engine diagnostic mode following the procedure listed here. When I get to the last step the engine will begin to rev which does seem right to me. Also, the instructions say to “press” the pedals, but not how much.

Suggestions welcome, thanks.

 

[SALEEN961]

I cannot get my PB into engine diagnostic mode following the procedure listed here. When I get to the last step the engine will begin to rev which does seem right to me. Also, the instructions say to “press” the pedals, but not how much.

Suggestions welcome, thanks.

Here is the procedure from a different service manual, it mentions that the engine will run at 4,000RPM.

 

[amschind]

I check oil in everything – lawn mowers, garden tillers, air compressors, cars, trucks, transmissions, differentials, etc.

When it came to the transmissions on my various trucks, I wondered why I need to check the transmission fluid hot?

Aren’t all Ford transmissions used in our trucks interchangeable?

Aren’t they made of the same materials with the same castings, internal parts, clutches, etc. – or are some transmissions made of different materials so that they expand or absorb fluid more or less than others?

Is the fluid in my transmission special so that it will expand more or less than the guy’s down the street?

Does Ford heat the transmissions and the transmission fluids to 270 degrees or whatever temperature they specify before they add the fluid to the transmission?

I’m guessing that Ford adds X number of quarts of room temperature fluid to each room temperature transmission at the factory and moves it down the line.


Why are we checking the fluid level in transmissions?

If there is evidence of a leak or malfunction, then checking fluid level is important but if there are no leaks, where would the fluid go?

I’m going with the thought that Ford adds the correct amount of transmission fluid at the factory and if there are no leaks and the transmission works OK then let it be and minimize the chance of dirt getting into the transmission when you remove the dipstick.

If checking transmission fluid is part of your maintenance procedure then park the vehicle on a level location and let it cool overnight or for whatever period seems correct to normalize things.

Once conditions are normalized, remove the dip stick, make note of the fluid level and use this as a baseline for future comparisons.

Dipstick too short to read fluid level of a cool transmission?

Use a Popsicle stick – preferably clean – or something similar to check the level. Keep the stick or record the measurements from the stick for future comparisons.

I think that even if Ford uses some exotic procedure to fill the transmissions, using a cool baseline should work for your individual transmission barring leaks or malfunction.

You do realize that transmission fluid lasts between 30-60k miles, right? I would also strongly caution against the popsicle stick idea. There is a fun thread on the Kubota tractor forum right now trying to help a guy who pushed a "stick" into his hydraulic/transmission fluid reservoir and is now desperate to get it out. The good news, at least for his self-worth, was that he immediately admitted how stupid that was and folks didn't give him much grief.

 

[Mosey]

You do realize that transmission fluid lasts between 30-60k miles, right? I would also strongly caution against the popsicle stick idea. There is a fun thread on the Kubota tractor forum right now trying to help a guy who pushed a "stick" into his hydraulic/transmission fluid reservoir and is now desperate to get it out. The good news, at least for his self-worth, was that he immediately admitted how stupid that was and folks didn't give him much grief.

According to Ford the change interval is 150,000 miles. But there is no way I’m letting it go that far. All I’m doing is checking the level. If I push the plastic dipstick inside of the transmission, then yes, I’m a complete dumb ass.

 

[amschind]

According to Ford the change interval is 150,000 miles. But there is no way I’m letting it go that far. All I’m doing is checking the level. If I push the plastic dipstick inside of the transmission, then yes, I’m a complete dumb ass.

Yes, BUT....

1) It is my personal opinion that a fluid change early on gets the wear in debris out of the fluid. I can't back that up with data.

2) 150k miles is a LOT of miles, particularly if the original wear in debris was never removed.

3) Ford actually recommends 30-60k mile change intervals for hard use/heavy towing et c.

The bigger question is "what is your goal?" If you keep trucks for 100k miles and then trade up, then don't bother changing anything but the motor oil when the dash warning tells you. If you want 250k+ miles out of the truck, your maintenance habits need to be more intensive or the truck will become a money pit as it ages. This calculus dovetails with "how much time/money does maintenance item X cost?" I think that this thread is catering to folks who have already made a decision to reduce trans fluid change intervals based upon 1-3 and are looking to reduce the cost of doing so. I am all about "don't borrow trouble", but I have also seen the cost delta between "money saved on deferred maintenance" and "money spent of avoidable repairs". It is not a positive number unless you offload the item in question relatively early in its possible service life.

 

[Mosey]

I agree with you on the early change. I simply wanted to verify the level.

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