Samson16
Well-known member
- First Name
- Kyle
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2023
- Threads
- 18
- Messages
- 3,622
- Reaction score
- 3,587
- Location
- Orlando, FL.
- Vehicles
- '22 F-150 XLT Powerboost Super Crew 4x4
- Occupation
- Aviation systems
Thanks for sharing that experience. What was your speed set to?At one point I was going down a 10% grade and was in tow/haul mode using cruise control - a mistake, it turns out! I was watching the EV monitor and saw only regen mode, not additional braking, so I didn't think the brakes were being used. I eventually got a warning saying the brakes were overheating and the truck switched cruise control off
Probably 20 - 25 most of the way down; it was the Teton pass. Maybe tow/haul works in automatic for milder slopes, but this was too much?Thanks for sharing that experience. What was your speed set to?
I think our high voltage battery is small and when “full” the regen braking (using the electric motor as an electric generator to charge the battery) ceases. That leaves us with disc brakes and 3.5l V6 engine braking. Manual shift control seems to be favored here as the best option. Some skilled guys have swapped in Raptor steering wheels for the paddle shifters just for that reason. Well that and they’re just sweet ?
I feel your pain. The only time my truck has ever felt overmatched was heading down Teton pass to Jackson towing 6200# RV.Probably 20 - 25 most of the way down; it was the Teton pass. Maybe tow/haul works in automatic for milder slopes, but this was too much?
I tow in Tow/haul mode whenever I tow. I lock out gears 8-10 to remove the overdrive gears. I don't use "manual" shifting I use the Progressive Range Selection. + / - button on the shifter and just downshift or upshift as needed going down a steep grade or up. I don't use cruise control on hills, but on flatlands and turn off lane centering (cause trailer sway if turned on). I always monitor my boost gauge and when I see the turbos fire up, I downshift to get out of the turbos and get higher engine RPMs up. I feel I get better MPGs doing this and the temps stay in the normal range and engine braking works great on downhill runs and don't overuse my brakes. Just my 2 cents here.Hi, I would like some help understanding -- Many posts have talked about increased engine braking in tow/haul mode and I'm not sure what this is.
I just returned from a first trip towing about a 6000# travel trailer with a 2021 powerboost. At one point I was going down a 10% grade and was in tow/haul mode using cruise control - a mistake, it turns out! I was watching the EV monitor and saw only regen mode, not additional braking, so I didn't think the brakes were being used. I eventually got a warning saying the brakes were overheating and the truck switched cruise control off. The truck, of course, accelerated to make things exciting! I quickly changed to manual shift and shifted down.
After that point in the trip, I switched to manual mode on down hills. Is there a different way to manage this? I don't think I noticed the truck shifting down as much as I expected by simply braking.
As a bonus, is there some way to monitor brake temperature real time. I think it was great the truck monitored it and reacted when it hit a threshold, but I would like to know mostly out of curiosity. I did have an IR temp gun and measured the brake disk temp at 460-500 right after stopping. Trailer brakes were also hot.
Thanks for your 2 cents. Just locking out more gears to accomplish what I was doing by using manual mode makes complete sense. I'll adopt that.I tow in Tow/haul mode whenever I tow. I lock out gears 8-10 to remove the overdrive gears. I don't use "manual" shifting I use the Progressive Range Selection. + / - button on the shifter and just downshift or upshift as needed going down a steep grade or up. I don't use cruise control on hills, but on flatlands and turn off lane centering (cause trailer sway if turned on). I always monitor my boost gauge and when I see the turbos fire up, I downshift to get out of the turbos and get higher engine RPMs up. I feel I get better MPGs doing this and the temps stay in the normal range and engine braking works great on downhill runs and don't overuse my brakes. Just my 2 cents here.
Tow mode isn't about fuel economy, it's about using engine braking, and higher RPM for better cooling by spinning the water pump faster. It also turns down the hybrid functionality as well due to the heat the battery creates that then gets fed to the AC system. It adjust the trans logic to better use gears to reduce trans wear as well.Thanks for your 2 cents. Just locking out more gears to accomplish what I was doing by using manual mode makes complete sense. I'll adopt that.
When locking out gears to avoid boost, is there some RPM limit you worry about? In this last 5000 mile towing trip, I did try locking out gears from time to time, but didn't see reliable differences in the instantaneous mpg, so just let the truck do its thing, which at highway speeds would mostly run in 8th, and shift to 9th or 10th on gradual descents.
The highest gear I use is 7 (1 : 1 gear ratio). I have used Gear 8 before but it gets the turbo spinning more (more heat). I've noticed I get better mpg and less heat/temps doing it this way. I'm not redlining the tach, I think I hit 5.4k rpm once/twice going down a long grade in NC, but the tow haul mode did it's job. Like HammaMan stated above it will spin the water pump moving more coolant to keep trans/ICE cooler. I'm towing a travel trailer about 4200 lbs. in North Ga/NC/TN/FLA so its flat & mountains drives for me. I"ve taken advice from a lot of people on this forum and for my truck and trailer combination this just works best for me. I get 11-13 mpg and tow with 93 octane gas. I don't put the trans in "manual" I use the Progressive Range Selection method and shift the gears as needed.Thanks for your 2 cents. Just locking out more gears to accomplish what I was doing by using manual mode makes complete sense. I'll adopt that.
When locking out gears to avoid boost, is there some RPM limit you worry about? In this last 5000 mile towing trip, I did try locking out gears from time to time, but didn't see reliable differences in the instantaneous mpg, so just let the truck do its thing, which at highway speeds would mostly run in 8th, and shift to 9th or 10th on gradual descents.
Thanks, I'll try that next time. I appreciate all the input!The highest gear I use is 7 (1 : 1 gear ratio). I have used Gear 8 before but it gets the turbo spinning more (more heat). I've noticed I get better mpg and less heat/temps doing it this way. I'm not redlining the tach, I think once I hit 5.4k rpm once/twice going down a long grade in NC, but the tow haul mode it is job. Like HammaMan stated above it will spin the water pump moving more coolant to keep trans/ICE cooler. I'm towing a travel trailer about 4200 lbs. in North Ga/NC/TN/FLA so its flat & mountains drives for me. I"ve taken advice from a lot of people on this forum and for my truck and trailer combination this just works best for me. I get 11-13 mpg and tow with 93 octane gas. I don't put the trans in "manual" I use the Progressive Range Selection method and shift the gears as needed.![]()
My stock brakes perform just fine. I'm at about 36k miles on my truck, pull 6k pounds, and usually have payload close to 85-90% capacity with stuff, tongue weight, etc. Of those 36k miles, 50% have been towing.For those of you towing a little heavier, my future plans include a 7,500lb GVWR 26’ Intech trailer being towed with my PB.
Should I consider a brake upgrade?
Your question was already answered but I had a bit to add to it:I was towing with mine the first time last weekend and I have not determined which is the best for me. When in tow mode, the truck pretty much stayed in 8th gear at about 2.2 rpms and no boost. When I would switch back to Normal, it would stay in 10th gear and maintain my 65 mph, but the boost was constantly at about 7-10 pound range and out 1.6 rpms. So the question I have is, which method is more fuel efficient? is 2.2 and no boost better than 1.6 and no boost?