Question: Front Door Speakers on B&O non-unleashed

[Bob Violence]

Oh sh*t......my bad.....you're right. Got mixed up with mine that has the unleashed.

This sounds like something maybe the guys at @SoundsGoodStereo can explain better than I can.

No worries. I guess to answer my root question (are the front doors fed a full-range signal, or just mid/low), I am going to download some test tones and play them, and hold my ear up to the front door speaker.

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[Magician]

You'll still get significantly improved clarity with installing 2 or 3-way speakers for both front and rear doors over single cone speakers. If you are not planning on running an amp then The Kicker CS and DS speakers 6x9 and 6.75" rounds for front and rear are a great choice because they will respond very well to factory amp power levels

You'll also want to consider changing the following codes in the ACM. This will vastly improve the audio quality especially for the rears. The rear was set to speaker only on mine and changing them to 2 really brought the rears to life.


Fronts

727-01-01

xx*x

xxxx

xx--

2 =	FSS Internal Amplifier • SO Speaker and Tweeter

Rear doors

727-01-01

xxxx

*xxx

xx--

2 =	RSS Internal Amplifier • SO Speaker and Tweeter

Then move the fader towards the rear 2-3 steps from center to balance the sound stage.

Also if you have not done so already get a set of door block off plates from Sounds good stereo. These make a HUGE improvement to mid-bass performance. So much so you almost don't need a sub depending on the audio source. Provided you are not wanting a lot of boom that is.
I

Wait...

Scratch that you're on a B&O.. Thought it said non B&O... oops. lol

Still want to check the ACM for the rears to sww what it's set to. The B&O is supposed to have 2-ways on both F&R doors if I'm not mistaken.

Will these changes work with the Non B&O systems? I’m guessing not since the non system doesn’t have an amp or DSP? Curious since Ive tried several different settings using Forscan and ended up going back to the stock settings. My set up is in my profile if you’re wondering what I have?

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Will these changes work with the Non B&O systems? I’m guessing not since the non system doesn’t have an amp or DSP? Curious since Ive tried several different settings using Forscan and ended up going back to the stock settings. My set up is in my profile if you’re wondering what I have?

They did on mine. Specifically for the rears. Absolutely brought them to life with no annoying side effects like the changes to the internal EQ does.

Just save the settings before you change them and test it out. If you don't like it it only takes a second to revert from the backup.

 

[Spaced25]

HS10 is fed from the stock sub output wires behind the rear seat. Works pretty well IMO. There is still the bass roll-off issue at high volume levels (seems like anything over 25), which is one of the reasons I am going with the amp to power the door speakers. In theory, I can get more volume without turning the head unit up anywhere close to 25.

I am far from an audiophile, so while this setup is probably not the ideal way to go about it, it will be close enough.

Good to know. I’m never going much past 15 so not really concerned with roll off. In general would you say the HS10 wired to the stock sub signal is an improvement over stock?

 

[Bob Violence]

Good to know. I’m never going much past 15 so not really concerned with roll off. In general would you say the HS10 wired to the stock sub signal is an improvement over stock?

That would be an understatement. The stock sub was almost unnoticeable regardless of settings, music preferences, and human sacrifices.

 

[Magician]

They did on mine. Specifically for the rears. Absolutely brought them to life with no annoying side effects like the changes to the internal EQ does.

Just save the settings before you change them and test it out. If you don't like it it only takes a second to revert from the backup.

Thanks for the info, I think I’ll give it try. I’m adding a 10” sub in a few weeks and maybe this will finally make the system sound like it should. I wish this thing sounds like the Shaker 500 in the GT. I haven’t been really pleased with the sound my upgrades have made so far.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Sure thing. With upgrading the door speakers, adding deadening mat, the SGS block off plates and the forscan tweak I have been told it sounds very nearly the same as the standard B&O. Just lacking that tiny bit of low end that the sub fills in that the mains just cannot reproduce. I do use Spotify on lossless with the app's EQ set tp increase the bass a bit. Still toying with adding a small sub to it like an 8" or something. Just enough to fill what's missing form the low end.

 

[Bob Violence]

I set the balance/fader to the front left and played some test tones (on Spotify) to see what the door speaker would do.

I put my ear to the door speaker, and could hear 6k, but nothing higher, although the pillar tweeter played them just fine.

So, either the front door speaker is not being fed the full frequency range, or the crap Ford OEM door speaker isn't designed to handle anything over 6k because Ford assumes the pillar tweeter will take care of it.

Based on this, I think I'm good to replace the door speakers with 6x9 two-ways. They can handle anything above 6k if they get it, and if they don't, then no big deal.

 

[techobrien]

I am considering replacing the front door speakers on my B&O non-unleashed setup.

From my research, it appears those speakers are NOT full-range, as I'm guessing Ford is sending the highs to the A-pillar tweeters, and the mids/lows to the speakers in the door.

The question: If I were to replace the front door speakers with a full-range 2-way speaker, would it be a waste, as the DSP isn't going to send a full-range signal to them? I was unsure if they were being sent a full-range signal, and the OEM speaker just had some type of resistor (or whatever) attached to it to filter out the highs.

Also, it appears the A-pillar tweeters are powered by the ACM head unit, not the DSP.

I did basically what you're after in my truck due to blown rear door speakers, also B&O 8ch non-unleashed. I used Kicker KS instead because I preferred the silk-domed tweeters and they were still pretty sensitive. Also opted for KS because they have 6x9 components which were much less common in other brands. I did do coaxial 6.5"s in the rear and wish I would have taken the time to drill holes for the components because they sound so much better up front with the tweeters up higher.

Wiring diagrams etc can be found in the thread. Let me know if you have questions and I can try my best to help.

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/b-o-speaker-upgrade-recommendation.28713/post-601052

 

[Jknapp1]

Will 6.75 speakers work for the front and the back or should I go with 6.5?

 

[Graygoose2021]

Id stick with 6.5" to be sure. Brands vary

 

[techobrien]

Will 6.75 speakers work for the front and the back or should I go with 6.5?

FWIW, Sound Good Stereo sells a 6.75" Kicker KS kit so those presumably fit. I don't think I checked them out specifically.

 

[Jknapp1]

Thanks for the input, I'm planning on kickers

 

[Graygoose2021]

FWIW, Sound Good Stereo sells a 6.75" Kicker KS kit so those presumably fit. I don't think I checked them out specifically.

Yes they come with adapters for most vehicles. Some brand do not, hence why Id be careful, some just are harder to fit.

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