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Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible)

mxwrk

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Longdeck

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I’ve designed and made my own Pedestrian Alert Speaker Control Unit. The remote control OFF/ON is via the middle garage door opener button on the truck visor.

Since I’m retired, I still like to design & make stuff just for fun of it. Therefore I will not be selling it as a product with headaches of business and liability. It just for the pleasure of keeping mind & spirit active in retirement.
Ford F-150 Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible) IMG_2881
Ford F-150 Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible) IMG_2888
 

WillB17

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I’ve designed and made my own Pedestrian Alert Speaker Control Unit. The remote control OFF/ON is via the middle garage door opener button on the truck visor.

Since I’m retired, I still like to design & make stuff just for fun of it. Therefore I will not be selling it as a product with headaches of business and liability. It just for the pleasure of keeping mind & spirit active in retirement.
IMG_2881.jpeg
IMG_2888.webp

Very Nice!! Love seeing what people come up with at home. This is nearly identical to our product as well, if anyone is looking head to the link in my signature!
 

KW58

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I’ve designed and made my own Pedestrian Alert Speaker Control Unit. The remote control OFF/ON is via the middle garage door opener button on the truck visor.

Since I’m retired, I still like to design & make stuff just for fun of it. Therefore I will not be selling it as a product with headaches of business and liability. It just for the pleasure of keeping mind & spirit active in retirement.
IMG_2881.jpeg
IMG_2888.jpeg
Anyone have a switched power source that's (comparatively) easy to get to they'd recommend for hooking up one of the remote bypass kits?

Awesome work LongDeck! This inspired me to come up with something similar (using homelink buttons) but with WillB17's RC bypass kit. Figured I'd share for the other folks reading the forum that Will confirmed his RC transmitter will work with homelink (433mhz). I'm assuming the "on" and "off" buttons are different codes (or there wouldn't be two buttons on the transmitter). What I'm looking at doing is ordering the "normally on" version of the RC bypass, putting it on a power source that only comes on with the ignition, then programming a homelink button to the "off" button on the remote.

This would basically leave the truck in factory mode most of the time, then pressing the correct homelink button would put it in quiet mode until the next truck power cycle. (Trying not to carry an extra key fob on my keys or mount one more thing to my dash). I know most on this forum just want it off all the time, but we're a litigious society, so I'll deal with the ufo noise and beeps when I'm not leaving the neighborhood at o-dark-thirty or backing into a campground.

Since I have an XLT, no homelink as of yet, but I have a replacement rearview mirror on order; will be ordering the RC bypass kit once I have that installed, looking to plan ahead on a switched power source to wire it up once I have all the gear. Will report back here if I get it all working as intended as I'm probably not the only one who would like the setup to operate in this fashion.
 

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jabrego

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Anyone have a switched power source that's (comparatively) easy to get to they'd recommend for hooking up one of the remote bypass kits?

Awesome work LongDeck! This inspired me to come up with something similar (using homelink buttons) but with WillB17's RC bypass kit. Figured I'd share for the other folks reading the forum that Will confirmed his RC transmitter will work with homelink (433mhz). I'm assuming the "on" and "off" buttons are different codes (or there wouldn't be two buttons on the transmitter). What I'm looking at doing is ordering the "normally on" version of the RC bypass, putting it on a power source that only comes on with the ignition, then programming a homelink button to the "off" button on the remote.

This would basically leave the truck in factory mode most of the time, then pressing the correct homelink button would put it in quiet mode until the next truck power cycle. (Trying not to carry an extra key fob on my keys or mount one more thing to my dash). I know most on this forum just want it off all the time, but we're a litigious society, so I'll deal with the ufo noise and beeps when I'm not leaving the neighborhood at o-dark-thirty or backing into a campground.

Since I have an XLT, no homelink as of yet, but I have a replacement rearview mirror on order; will be ordering the RC bypass kit once I have that installed, looking to plan ahead on a switched power source to wire it up once I have all the gear. Will report back here if I get it all working as intended as I'm probably not the only one who would like the setup to operate in this fashion.
I used rostra source power 250-2950 when I want devices to only turn on when the truck is on. I’ve also made my wireless pedestrian device that uses a 9v battery. So far been a year and have not had to replace the battery.
Ford F-150 Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible) IMG_0029
 

KW58

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I used rostra source power 250-2950 when I want devices to only turn on when the truck is on. I’ve also made my wireless pedestrian device that uses a 9v battery. So far been a year and have not had to replace the battery.
IMG_0029.jpeg
Is this a relay of some kind?
 

jabrego

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Is this a relay of some kind?
Internally I guess it has a relay. It senses when there is voltage in use and turns on. When it senses no voltage use, it turns off. Connects directly to the battery
 

KW58

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Internally I guess it has a relay. It senses when there is voltage in use and turns on. When it senses no voltage use, it turns off. Connects directly to the battery
Clever little contraption. I’m curious how that thing senses when to switch on/off. For the bypass I may still look for a switched power source to avoid parasitic drain on what’s apparently already a weak 12v system, but I will definitely remember this gadget down the road. Thanks!
 

jabrego

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Clever little contraption. I’m curious how that thing senses when to switch on/off. For the bypass I may still look for a switched power source to avoid parasitic drain on what’s apparently already a weak 12v system, but I will definitely remember this gadget down the road. Thanks!
I should be more clear, it senses when the truck battery has a load( truck ignition is turned on) then the rostra module turns on. When the ignition turns off the rostra module will power off.
 

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KW58

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Anyone have a switched power source that's (comparatively) easy to get to they'd recommend for hooking up one of the remote bypass kits?

Awesome work LongDeck! This inspired me to come up with something similar (using homelink buttons) but with WillB17's RC bypass kit. Figured I'd share for the other folks reading the forum that Will confirmed his RC transmitter will work with homelink (433mhz). I'm assuming the "on" and "off" buttons are different codes (or there wouldn't be two buttons on the transmitter). What I'm looking at doing is ordering the "normally on" version of the RC bypass, putting it on a power source that only comes on with the ignition, then programming a homelink button to the "off" button on the remote.

This would basically leave the truck in factory mode most of the time, then pressing the correct homelink button would put it in quiet mode until the next truck power cycle. (Trying not to carry an extra key fob on my keys or mount one more thing to my dash). I know most on this forum just want it off all the time, but we're a litigious society, so I'll deal with the ufo noise and beeps when I'm not leaving the neighborhood at o-dark-thirty or backing into a campground.

Since I have an XLT, no homelink as of yet, but I have a replacement rearview mirror on order; will be ordering the RC bypass kit once I have that installed, looking to plan ahead on a switched power source to wire it up once I have all the gear. Will report back here if I get it all working as intended as I'm probably not the only one who would like the setup to operate in this fashion.
Didn’t end up putting on a switched power source…for anyone else considering similar setup…the new model remote bypass kits have a one-button remote (unlike the two-button in the stock photo). Can confirm that remote button is programmable to homelink so now one of my unused garage door buttons turns the UFO/beep on or off since the remote is now single button.
@WillB17 great quality on the assembly by the way, well executed.
 

LouDog

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Didn’t end up putting on a switched power source…for anyone else considering similar setup…the new model remote bypass kits have a one-button remote (unlike the two-button in the stock photo). Can confirm that remote button is programmable to homelink so now one of my unused garage door buttons turns the UFO/beep on or off since the remote is now single button.
@WillB17 great quality on the assembly by the way, well executed.
can you explain how you did the home link programming with the remote? I’m very interested in this! Thanks!
 

Davexxxx

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Glad this thread resurfaced. I'll be doing the back up delete and fuel door pin mods soon.
 

KW58

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can you explain how you did the home link programming with the remote? I’m very interested in this! Thanks!
Short version- same as programming a garage door opener on homelink.

Steps as best I can recall them from memory- My homelink is on an aftermarket mirror, but I believe programming process is same as the factory ones built into the visor…
Press and hold the homelink button you want to program (I think it’s 20 or 30 sec) until the blinky light pattern changes. (If you press and hold the 1 and 3 button at the same time I think it resets all of them). Then press/hold the fob for the bypass while holding it a few inches from the homelink. Blink pattern will change again on the homelink (it may even turn solid, I can’t remember) once it learns the signal. Once you do that, release the button in the fob and homelink is programmed, it’ll now transmit the same signal as the fob when you press that button.
 

LouDog

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Short version- same as programming a garage door opener on homelink.

Steps as best I can recall them from memory- My homelink is on an aftermarket mirror, but I believe programming process is same as the factory ones built into the visor…
Press and hold the homelink button you want to program (I think it’s 20 or 30 sec) until the blinky light pattern changes. (If you press and hold the 1 and 3 button at the same time I think it resets all of them). Then press/hold the fob for the bypass while holding it a few inches from the homelink. Blink pattern will change again on the homelink (it may even turn solid, I can’t remember) once it learns the signal. Once you do that, release the button in the fob and homelink is programmed, it’ll now transmit the same signal as the fob when you press that button.
Thank you. That’s a huge selling point to these! Buying one today.
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