My PowerBoost is essentially dead

[Snakebitten]

Yes, the isolator is mounted to the firewall end of the battery tray. It's what stops us Powerboost'rs from fitting an H8 battery to the tray.

Thanks for clarifying what you are doing. I'm paying close attention because I think you are the first to actually dig-in with a no-start truck. Most fellas rely on the dealership and we can't exactly believe what they tell the customer.

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[devern]

Yes, the isolator is mounted to the firewall end of the battery tray. It's what stops us Powerboost'rs from fitting an H8 battery to the tray.

Thanks for clarifying what you are doing. I'm paying close attention because I think you are the first to actually dig-in with a no-start truck. Most fellas rely on the dealership and we can't exactly believe what they tell the customer.

Thanks for clearing that up. I'm hyper-fixating on the problem maybe a bit too much, but it's important to me that I understand why the failure occurred in the first place. Even if we're able to get this fixed, I won't be able to trust it again unless I know the exact failure scenario. This is probably a pipe-dream to expect from the dealer, given that it will probably end up being "replaced XYZ, can't replicate", when what I'm really hoping for is "We replaced module XYZ and sent it back to Ford for analysis. They opened it up and there was soot and corrosion everywhere. So we're inspecting 3 more modules that were located near, and connected to module XYZ" or I would even settle for an outcome like "Investigated vehicle while experiencing the issue with Ford hotline. Observed unintended behaviour from module XYZ, causing a malfunction in the DC-to-DC inverter and a drop in overall 12V state of charge. Reprogramming module XYZ corrected this behaviour. Updated all other modules to latest, including taking actions outlined in TSB 22-2404."

More importantly, wifey will need evidence that it won't leave her stranded at work again. As much as I'm in love with the tech in the truck, and enjoy driving it, she is the primary driver and enjoys it even more than I do.

 

[Abraham5G]

I was checking out a new 2023 PowerBoost at my local Ford dealer, when the sales tried to to turn it on, it wouldn't start. Completely dead. The other non-PowerBoost trucks started up just fine. Salesman said it wouldn't start because it was sitting for about 3 weeks. This was the battery it had.

 

[devern]

Update on my 2021 PB: it spent the past month with the dealer service department and we got it back today.

The first week they had it, they tried pulling an aux battery out of a known good PB and swapping it into our vehicle, but that didn't solve the problem. So they did a ton of pinpoint and wiggle testing, back and forth with the Ford Engineer hotline. While the condition was happening, they noticed that disconnecting a specific section of harness would cause several unresponsive vehicle modules to come back online (I think this was junction 148? I don't recall exactly). This behaviour was repeatable. There were also changes in behaviour when doing the wiggle tests, indicating most likely a break in the wiring. The section of harness that was replaced was that which connects between the TCCM (located near the BCM in the cab, near the passenger footwell) and the PCM in the engine compartment.

I really hope this is the end of it. At the very least, the key difference this time around, is that no parts were replaced because "it could be the cause", but instead specific observations were made and failure modes observed, leading to this conclusion. I am about 85% confident we won't be back for this issue.

 

[Josh35]

Update on my 2021 PB: it spent the past month with the dealer service department and we got it back today.

The first week they had it, they tried pulling an aux battery out of a known good PB and swapping it into our vehicle, but that didn't solve the problem. So they did a ton of pinpoint and wiggle testing, back and forth with the Ford Engineer hotline. While the condition was happening, they noticed that disconnecting a specific section of harness would cause several unresponsive vehicle modules to come back online (I think this was junction 148? I don't recall exactly). This behaviour was repeatable. There were also changes in behaviour when doing the wiggle tests, indicating most likely a break in the wiring. The section of harness that was replaced was that which connects between the TCCM (located near the BCM in the cab, near the passenger footwell) and the PCM in the engine compartment.

I really hope this is the end of it. At the very least, the key difference this time around, is that no parts were replaced because "it could be the cause", but instead specific observations were made and failure modes observed, leading to this conclusion. I am about 85% confident we won't be back for this issue.

So it may end up being a wiring harness, just like mine…

 

[trabo]

Update on my 2021 PB: it spent the past month with the dealer service department and we got it back today.

The first week they had it, they tried pulling an aux battery out of a known good PB and swapping it into our vehicle, but that didn't solve the problem. So they did a ton of pinpoint and wiggle testing, back and forth with the Ford Engineer hotline. While the condition was happening, they noticed that disconnecting a specific section of harness would cause several unresponsive vehicle modules to come back online (I think this was junction 148? I don't recall exactly). This behaviour was repeatable. There were also changes in behaviour when doing the wiggle tests, indicating most likely a break in the wiring. The section of harness that was replaced was that which connects between the TCCM (located near the BCM in the cab, near the passenger footwell) and the PCM in the engine compartment.

I really hope this is the end of it. At the very least, the key difference this time around, is that no parts were replaced because "it could be the cause", but instead specific observations were made and failure modes observed, leading to this conclusion. I am about 85% confident we won't be back for this issue.

Thank you guys so much for digging into this and sharing your experiences with us. This sort of thing will prove invaluable for owners down the line who encounter these issues. Dealers dont frequent forums and many mechanics are clueless. I would wager my whole $70k truck that someone will teach their dealership how to fix this issue because you have shared this information.

Good luck moving forward!

 

[Bunker]

I was checking out a new 2023 PowerBoost at my local Ford dealer, when the sales tried to to turn it on, it wouldn't start. Completely dead. The other non-PowerBoost trucks started up just fine. Salesman said it wouldn't start because it was sitting for about 3 weeks. This was the battery it had.

Ok, I know this isn’t related to this post but here’s and interesting data point. After having my wife’s key (and bag) stolen last month I had to get creative to stop the truck from being stolen until I got a new key. I pulled the power cable off that battery so that the thief couldn’t just come find the truck and drive off. Well, it started with the battery cable removed. Yeah. Amazing.

I did get a warning to have my charge system checked.

 

[Snakebitten]

It'd be easier to just pull a vital harness connector. I imagine several are at arms length with the hood open. ?

For sure a strategic fuse?

It's actually kinda amazing that there's ever a moment where every single component is operating perfectly.

 

[Gros Ventre]

The other things you can do is to reset the world by disconnecting both the main and keep alive battery (the one under the pax side rear seat).
Then, get a new main battery. I had some funny things crop up while on the road for Thanksgiving family get togethers. Stopped and just bought a new NAPA Battery out on the road, a drop in replacement AGM. Not a peep since.

 

[devern]

So it may end up being a wiring harness, just like mine…

Since getting our truck back, there have been two days with ideal conditions that would have previously triggered the condition... I am getting dangerously confident (~95%) that the problem won't return. Still, it was intermittent even when it was happening, so time will tell.

 

[devern]

Ok, I know this isn’t related to this post but here’s and interesting data point. After having my wife’s key (and bag) stolen last month I had to get creative to stop the truck from being stolen until I got a new key. I pulled the power cable off that battery so that the thief couldn’t just come find the truck and drive off. Well, it started with the battery cable removed. Yeah. Amazing.

I did get a warning to have my charge system checked.

Feature idea for Ford: security key rotation for fobs. Maybe some sort of additional authentication / proof of identification in FordPass, and then a 15 minute window to put any fobs in the cup holder to change/rotate their keying to the BCM. Then stolen fobs become a non-issue, and replacing them is an end-user activity.

 

[Samson16]

Ok, I know this isn’t related to this post but here’s and interesting data point. After having my wife’s key (and bag) stolen last month I had to get creative to stop the truck from being stolen until I got a new key. I pulled the power cable off that battery so that the thief couldn’t just come find the truck and drive off. Well, it started with the battery cable removed. Yeah. Amazing.

I did get a warning to have my charge system checked.

Disconnect everything from the negative post.

 

[Bunker]

Disconnect everything from the negative post.

All I tried was removing the cable from the negative post. Key fob still unlocked the door and the engine started.
My solution was to hitch up, move the seat into the steering wheel and put the 120lb cooler behind the seat. Figured that would slow them down and they’d have to take me along if they did steal it.

 

[Samson16]

All I tried was removing the cable from the negative post.

Interesting. That would indicate that due to the existence of 3 batteries, The frame and other metal structures serve as the return unless all 3 negative posts are disconnected. The HVB being the primary return. The aux battery was still connected to the circuits that recognize your key fob, and the HVB still powered the DC/DC converter for the system "On" condition and used the belt starter to turn the ICE over.

https://www.northerntool.com/produc...60zfYaZmUTAtQ9n-0ZRoC2lgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Problem solved.

 

[HammaMan]

Interesting. That would indicate that due to the existence of 3 batteries, The frame and other metal structures serve as the return unless all 3 negative posts are disconnected. The HVB being the primary return. The aux battery was still connected to the circuits that recognize your key fob, and the HVB still powered the DC/DC converter for the system "On" condition and used the belt starter to turn the ICE over.

https://www.northerntool.com/products/trimax-adjustable-wheel-lock-model-twl100-64622?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Safety > Security Locks > Machine Locks&utm_campaign=Trimax&utm_content=64622&ogmap=SHP|PLA|GOOG|STND|c|SITEWIDE|INTRADE||||857740992|42214669623&gclid=CjwKCAjw5_GmBhBIEiwA5QSMxKb4ayFz4NCfoztQNqcha1oTUt_GZTcTQbC60zfYaZmUTAtQ9n-0ZRoC2lgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Problem solved.

Ha, um no, the HVB is 100% isolated from the vehicle and is done so in all HV-EVs. I'll let you take a guess at what would happen if the negative terminal at the pack came loose. The HV cables are even shielded as another form of protection. HVDC is no joke AC will bite you, DC will grab you. Neither are friendly

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