Kicker HS10 Install

[Dumptruck]

My son wants a little more bass out of his standard XLT Non B&O system so I was thinking of installing a small sub behind the rear seat. I've been searching the past few days and I feel like a Kicker HS10 would work nicely. In researching I've learned about the roll off in they factory sound tuning that needs to be addressed to get the most out of the sub and I see there are two popular options for this, the Kicker Keyloc and the AudioControl LC2i. It seems both the Keylock and LC2i would do what I need but is there an advantage to using one over the other? I'm not interested in using ForScan to correct to minimize the rolloff at higher volume. I also I understand that the front speakers need to be tapped to get sound signal for the sub, is there a way of doing this without cutting wires?

Sponsored

 

[Davidwnuc]

We installed the HS10 in my sons 2017 crew cab f150. Sounds good. Plenty of bass.
Non amplified systems dont suffer from bass roll off. So you don't have to worry about it.
several vendors make a harness to give you amp signals. Cutting the harness is not required.
I used the PAC brand harness found on Amazon. Make sure you pick the right harness for the year truck.
@SoundsGoodStereo can hook you up also. They have great products.


Only issue (very minor) we had was the power wire supplied with the sub was too short for how we initially planned to get to the battery but in the end we found a way without splicing and still got to the battery.
just fyi…start with the routing of the power, it may dictate where your sub goes if you want to go to the battery.

 

[Dumptruck]

We installed the HS10 in my sons 2017 crew cab f150. Sounds good. Plenty of bass.
Non amplified systems dont suffer from bass roll off. So you don't have to worry about it.
several vendors make a harness to give you amp signals. Cutting the harness is not required.
I used the PAC brand harness found on Amazon. Make sure you pick the right harness for the year truck.
@SoundsGoodStereo can hook you up also. They have great products.


Only issue (very minor) we had was the power wire supplied with the sub was too short for how we initially planned to get to the battery but in the end we found a way without splicing and still got to the battery.
just fyi…start with the routing of the power, it may dictate where your sub goes if you want to go to the battery.

Ive heard about soundsgood stereo in my research. I was not aware that the non amplified systems didn't have the bass rolloff.

I read the Kicker cable was short so I was anticipating having to splice the power cable.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Ive heard about soundsgood stereo in my research. I was not aware that the non amplified systems didn't have the bass rolloff.

I read the Kicker cable was short so I was anticipating having to splice the power cable.

It lacks a "Roll-Off" but includes a static EQ, similar to a high-pass filter, to shield factory speakers from low bass. When adding an amplifier, you must restore the bass before amplification. The optimal solution is using a properly programmed Kicker KeyLOC. Alternatively, you can bypass the factory EQ/Crossover with ForSCAN, but this sends low frequencies to the speakers, risking damage at moderate volumes. Only choose this if you can implement a new crossover, such as with a multi-channel amplifier.

 

[Dumptruck]

It lacks a "Roll-Off" but includes a static EQ, similar to a high-pass filter, to shield factory speakers from low bass. When adding an amplifier, you must restore the bass before amplification. The optimal solution is using a properly programmed Kicker KeyLOC. Alternatively, you can bypass the factory EQ/Crossover with ForSCAN, but this sends low frequencies to the speakers, risking damage at moderate volumes. Only choose this if you can implement a new crossover, such as with a multi-channel amplifier.

Thanks.

Looks like a HS10, Keyloc, LPHFD31, and some extra power wire is all I need.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Thanks.

Looks like a HS10, Keyloc, LPHFD31, and some extra power wire is all I need.

Yes, then be sure to tune the KeyLOC properly, it can be tricky on these trucks

 

[dmac]

I'll definitely say that you don't need an amp for the non-B&O system. The bass roll off is a total non-issue. On my 7 speaker non-amped system, I have way more bass than I need with the HS10 and some front block off plates.

Just make sure to wire the sub up to the front speaker lines.

The HS10 also fits snugly without any mounting behind the rear seat. No point in spending extra cash on a sub box or amplifier.

See my other long post https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/speakers-best-bang-for-the-buck.12532/post-411966

 

[ThumperF150]

In my XL RCSB I used SGS block off plates and some Amazon sound mat in the doors, Kicker Key 200.4 amp with harness from Hush Audio, Kicker 670 speakers in the doors and tweeters in the A pillars and the HS10 under the pass seat.

I am 100% happy with this system/upgrade.

 

[Dumptruck]

In my XL RCSB I used SGS block off plates and some Amazon sound mat in the doors, Kicker Key 200.4 amp with harness from Hush Audio, Kicker 670 speakers in the doors and tweeters in the A pillars and the HS10 under the pass seat.

I am 100% happy with this system/upgrade.

If it were my truck I would replace the door speakers and add an amp for them but for my son I think the HS10 will be good enough.

Sponsored