Is Disabling Shifter Fold Button Harmful?

[Darrell78]

No, I have not tried that series of actions. I have pretty much been following @HammaMan 's direction (he knows this stuff a million times better than I do....).

I follow your reasoning and logic on your suggested experiment, but I think what @HammaMan 's assigned tasks/directions has demonstrated is that the module remains powered for 10 minutes (or maybe a little less), and as long as it is powered, it will throw a warning /DTC if power is interrupted before it times out on its own. But that being said, who knows - maybe you're on to something....

It was just a thought. May work out for you. Who knows. Waste 10 mins and see.

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[Lefty665]

On the original idea, a switch in series with the gear shift module power would do it. Put the hidden switch in the console bin or in the pocket on the drivers side of the console and it takes a foot or less of wire.

Don't even need to fold the shifter down, just flip the switch off. No fooling with fuse panels or parsing circuit diagrams, just cut the power wire to the gear shift module and splice in the wires to the hidden switch.

It'll take longer to disassemble the console to get access and to mount the switch than to make the change.

ps: HammaMan said it, and as he noted, it would also be nice to see if that pisses off the truck.

Things were sure simpler the way car manufacturers taught us wiring long long ago. OTOH we didn't have the advantages of fuel injected blown trucks w 2+hp/cuin optimized in software. 10 speeds were for effete bicycles.

 

[Darrell78]

On the original idea, a switch in series with the gear shift module power would do it. Put the hidden switch in the console bin or in the pocket on the drivers side of the console and it takes a foot or less of wire.

Don't even need to fold the shifter down, just flip the switch off. No fooling with fuse panels or parsing circuit diagrams, just cut the power wire to the gear shift module and splice in the wires to the hidden switch.

It'll take longer to disassemble the console to get access and to mount the switch than to make the change.

That would be the end result. After making sure there would be no ill effects such as code setting from doing the mod.

 

[FirstFord]

No fooling with fuse panels or parsing circuit diagrams, just cut the power wire to the gear shift module and splice in the wires to the hidden switch.

The original overall concept was to electrically disengage (switch) the shifter operation from the rest of the truck, and to which I wondered if that would do harm. Pulling the fuse was merely a simple, quick, easy tool to break the power to the shifter (somewhat like a switch) to observe the results - outside of that, working with fuses or within the fuse panel was never a part of the actual proposed solution.

I really did not want to start tearing my console apart just to see what's there and how things connect and work. I'm not interested in doing "exploratory surgery" on a truck that cost as much as my first house. I'll leave that to others. And along those lines, I'm also not interested in cutting up an OE wiring harness (especially on these insanely complicated vehicles!) in the name of "experimenting" or "exploring". But there are a ton of people on this forum who are a lot smarter than I am, and are huge sources of information, which is why I posted. @Buyer2021 supplied information that indicates which pin numbers on the shifter connector are related to power supply. I want to study a wiring schematic a little closer to see what else is upstream and downstream of this connector. My suspicion is that if the power signal to the shifter is disrupted (regardless of where the disruption/disconnect takes place) while the module is still energized will make the truck mad and trigger warnings and DTCs. My automotive electrical knowledge and experience is 100 years old, and deals with direct wiring. The whole concept of "modules" is so foreign to me - I am completely out of my element, so I tread very lightly....

 

[Buyer2021]

I can't help but wonder, given the numerous uncertainties, is the 'juice-worth-the-squeeze' in regard to this 'limited-case auxiliary theft deterrent'?

It would only deter 'drive-away' by a bad actor who has already gained access to your vehicle and started the engine; if they want to jack your non-running truck the parking pawl manual override intended for 'legitimate tow' will still function to allow that.

I know it is not for me, but I guess 'YMMV'.

 

[FirstFord]

I can't help but wonder, given the numerous uncertainties, is the 'juice-worth-the-squeeze' in regard to this 'auxiliary theft deterrent'?

Wow - what a great application of that ol' saying - and you are raising a very good question! We are now leaving the technical and entering the philosophical....

I tend to take care of my vehicles, and thus, keep them for a long time - I "mile them out". Barring any catastrophic event, this will be last truck. I really like my SuperCab Lariat, and as you know, they aren't making SuperCab Lariats anymore. My truck is literally un-replaceable.

It is becoming increasingly known that 1/2 ton trucks are a popular theft item (I've read that it has turned into a pretty serious problem in Canada). And with technology moving forward at lightning speed, it is now increasingly easy (and apparently cheap) to clone the RF signal from a key FOB. I live out in the middle of nowhere, so statistically, it is highly unlikely I would be a truck-theft victim. But, I do make trips to "the big city" often enough that it on my mind. When this concept first came about, I thought it was a terrific idea, and I became the guy chasing that rabbit down its hole. I am not interested in breaking my truck. Actually, I'm not all that interested in using it as a test platform, even though I have to some degree with this project. And I will admit that when I pulled the fuse and initially saw all of the warnings on the instrument display, my heart kind of sank. But as already explained, I got that cleared up fairly easily. Is the squeeze worth the juice? I'm still figuring that out. I might go down this rabbit hole a little deeper, but not much more. At some point, it will be time to move on to other things - especially with the lack of positive results. And I also have a high number of other projects that are being neglected. But who knows - maybe the next post will be from a member who has been quietly exploring this idea on their own, testing, experimenting, has found the solution, and wants to post!

 

[Buyer2021]

.... Is the squeeze worth the juice? I'm still figuring that out. ....

Asked and answered - Have Fun!

 

[HammaMan]

I'd use a 2 pole relay connected to a dash button (momentary ground + diode), the accessory delay circuit with a resistor that provides enough power to hold the relay (post key off) but not enough power to close it, and a button for the initial relay closing (relays require more current to close than hold). The button could be clearly visible. Upon entry you'd push and hold the 'new' button, press the appropriate upper dash button (relay closes), continue holding 'new' button and press the start button. The 2nd pole of the relay is to hold the ground closed (relay opens on power missing from accessory delay power missing)

Basically hop in, hold your new button (on the left), press traction control button (relay closes powering up shifter), push start button and release 'new' button. You end up with a 'hidden' 'mechanical' start sequence (aka dumb/no special controller) that's right in front of everyone but upon 'new' button press it does absolutely nothing. A hidden switch is only effective if it can't be found in under 15 seconds. A simple switch alone is a giveaway.

Now if the initial DTC won't clear immediately and let the vehicle start/move, killing the shifter isn't smart as anyone that tries to start the vehicle w/out the sequence, disables it until codes are cleared. If the shifter DTC still allows the vehicle to be driven but it's just got the MIL on, the hidden switch loses efficacy if found in short order.

This isn't a how-to, it's a basic outline of an approach to create one's own means. The most common and easiest theft method is the relay attack. Saw this article last week
https://www.wsbtv.com/news/local/de...-he-was-feet-away/DYFF4CZYJZA7DHVUENVDHXEG7M/

Thwarting the relay attack removes ~95% of theft means. If the truck is alone in the middle of nowhere, only then does a towing attack become a possibility. Most want to be in and out fast. Towing a vehicle is risky in itself as it stands out. Cheap hidden GPS trackers are another layer of security you can hide inside of the dash and don't use one that simply plugs into OBD and can be unplugged.

 

[MyRed2022]

I’m pretty simple and very old school, is there not a way to just interrupt the starter? Basically use a secondary relay on a simple button or toggle inline after the existing relay?

Miss the good ol’ days of leaving my first truck (Red 72 F150 RCLB 2wd) parked on the street in front of the house with the windows down on a hot summer night. An Alpine head unit and a couple of 6x9 Alpine speakers made you legendary ?

 

[FirstFord]

The most common and easiest theft method is the relay attack. Saw this article last week
https://www.wsbtv.com/news/local/de...-he-was-feet-away/DYFF4CZYJZA7DHVUENVDHXEG7M/

Yes, I read the same article at roughly the same time. It's somewhat the trigger that started me down this rabbit hole.

This isn't a how-to, it's a basic outline of an approach to create one's own means.

Thanks, I appreciate the qualifier, and I understand. Clearly you have put some time into thinking this over, which - again - I appreciate. At an arm's length, I understand your technical explanation. In other words, I sort of understand it, but not enough to know what I'm doing.

You end up with a 'hidden' 'mechanical' start sequence (aka dumb/no special controller) that's right in front of everyone but upon 'new' button press it does absolutely nothing. A hidden switch is only effective if it can't be found in under 15 seconds. A simple switch alone is a giveaway.

Brilliant.

 

[Lefty665]

FirstFord, HammaMan provided an ingenious method using a relay. I like that, it's elegant, but am still attracted to the simple lower the shifter then cut the power to it approach you suggested. The idea of using that silly disappearing shifter monkey motion for something useful is appealing.

I have found I'm not fond of standing on my head pulling fuses from the box behind the kick panel. (that's where it was on my older truck). If you follow that course to test if the truck likes cutting the power I'd suggest being sure you've got spare fuses so when one disappears down into inaccessible nether regions you've got a replacement. I was glad I did.

Never occurred to me that a factory wiring harness was sacred, or a truck such a precious jewel that I was afraid to do anything to it. Access the wiring harness going to the shifter, lower the shifter, turn the truck off and cut the power wire. If the truck bitches at you, reconnect the power and apologize. That's what wire nuts or soldering irons are for.

Or, just get a handle on your paranoia and figure the odds of your truck getting snatched are really pretty low. Save paranoia for big stuff like nuclear war.

 

[FirstFord]

The idea of using that silly disappearing shifter monkey motion for something useful is appealing.

Never occurred to me that a factory wiring harness was sacred, or a truck such a precious jewel that I was afraid to do anything to it.

100 years ago, I had no issues cutting into any vehicles wiring harness, nor did I have an issue experimenting and testing on a vehicle. Vehicles have changed a lot since then, and so have I. I don't consider the OE harness "sacred" - I would really just strongly prefer to leave it unmolested. That's just my headspace.

Based on the information supplied by Buyer 2021, pin # 5 and/or #6 appear to supply power to the shifter component. If power is interrupted at this specific location, will it trigger the same response as pulling the fuse? I have no idea.

 

[Buyer2021]

Based on the information supplied by Buyer 2021, pin # 5 and/or #6 appear to supply power to the shifter component.

My guess is that pins 5/6 do not send 'power' but send a signal to direct the shift lever to certain positions as when the driver's door is opened with the truck in gear. I suspect that the signal is interpreted, and the shift lever motion, is managed by a logic device within the GSM.

We see many modules in our trucks which have always-on or key-on 'power feeds' (pin #1 in this case) with separate 'signal feeds' (e.g. pins 5/6 etc) and logic in the module directing how that available power is used for various actions.

If power [or the signal circuit] is interrupted at this specific location, will it trigger the same response as pulling the fuse? I have no idea.

My guess is "no".

 

[FirstFord]

do not send 'power' but send a signal to direct the shift lever to certain positions as when the driver's door is opened with the truck in gear.

You see? There's that dinosaur thinking again! Yes, intellectually I knew that it was likely a "signal" rather than literally 12 volt power, but old habits are hard to break. I incorrectly intertwined the electrical concepts of power and signal. I misspoke. Thanks for the clarification.

My guess is "no".

If your guess is correct, then that could be another answer!

 

[Lefty665]

I agree FirstFord, old habits are hard to break. The car companies didn't teach us to think of our trucks as apps that happen to have some physical pieces.

As an analyst and programmer that got me thinking why do anything with hardware? Deal with the security issue in software. Then I decided that it was probably a good idea Ford does not let us muck around in the code. Some of us for sure would not be able to resist the temptation. What could go wrong? That led to a second thought (2 in one day, my goodness, I thought I was retired).

What if Ford gave us a configuration menu choice to define actions that would, for example, enable or disable the truck or as in the present discussion raise the shift lever from the down position? It could be something like: push the fan speed bar twice followed by flashing the brights three times and humming Dixie. Viola, the shift lever rises and you're ready to start the truck. Ford already uses many of these sequences for specific tasks like reset the battery history or change the door number pad sequence. Let us end users in on the fun too. It would not be hard to do.

It's a very large number of variables combinable in an almost infinite number of ways that would allow each owner to set up his or her own vehicle enabling/disabling sequence. Configurable like the number pad door lock but using any sequence of actions that the truck monitors to enable/disable the truck or to do most anything you choose. That could allow each of us our own personal enable/disable sequence and pretty much eliminate truck theft.

Thanks for helping me realize I needed to forget my old outmoded way of thinking about our new trucks and truly embrace the wonderful new world of truck as app. Software rocks! Applications uber alles.

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