How difficult is it to replace front shocks

[Mosey]

This past summer I replaced my rear shock of my 2021 PB with Bilstein 4600s. Now I am thinking about doing the fronts. I have done front shocks before, on my 2015 Canyon, but I did not have to break apart the knuckle, just remove the sway bar end links. I would have a local shop install the shocks into the strut assembly to avoid dealing with spring compressors. Lastly I want to purchase the shocks myself and clear coat them to cut down on rust/corrosion. Many shops do not like customer supplied parts.

So, is dealing with the knuckle something I should leave to a pro to do?

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[Porpoise Hork]

On my 2020 Ranger it took me about 45 minutes a side when I installed lift pucks but it was a 2WD. Everything came apart pretty easily. Very straight forward process and the hardest part was pushing the lower control arm down far enough so the taller strut assembly would fit back in.

When I looked at the F150 I was amazed that it was a very similar setup to the ranger. The hardest part might be having to loosen up the front CV axle bolt to give enough movement on the lower control arm to pull the strut out. Either way you want to use a spring compressor. They are cheap to rent from the local auto parts houses.

Also found these threads on it. Looks like for 4WD you might not have to loosen up the CV shaft.
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/4wd-front-strut-r-r-question-now-answered-thanks.13600/

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/2021-shocks-install-labor-hours.32459/

 

[Riddick]

The easiest way is to unbolt the LCA but this will 100% mess your alignment up pretty good. You can mark the current bolts and get it close but its kinda a pain getting it to line back up.

When I did my suspension I unbolted the UCA from the spindle and sway bar end links and left the LCA in place. My truck only had 4k miles on it, once I loosened the UCA it took a mild hit with a hammer and it came apart very easily. I had to use a good amount of force to get the strut out this way but it was not terrible. The studs in the OEM struts make it difficult, you could always use a saws all and chop them off. While there was a little tension on my CV axle I left it in place and no issues, you will need a good pry bar for this. I spent a couple hours watching leveling kit installs on youtube and this made the process so much smoother. Tons of content out there, watch a bunch of videos and see what way works best for you.

Feel free to shoot me a PM with any questions, happy to walk you through it.

 

[PowerBoostSoCal]

I recently upgraded my '25 FX4 to Bilstein 5100s ... there was no way I could do this (lack of tools and knowledge). I took it to a shop as it needed springs to be compressed, alignment and additional camber adjustment parts (Raptor spec) to be added to get everything running straight down the road. Worth the money for me ... good luck.

 

[Munch]

A RPITA to remove the factory front coilovers on a PB!

Easy if you have the tools and time. I had to remove the lower control arm to remove the factory coilovers. Installing the new front right coilover is a PITA because of very tight access to the three nuts fixing the coilover to the top of the tower.

Plenty of threads here how to gain that access. Just slow, tedious work removing and installing those 3 nuts.

All Youtube videos show the job on the driver's side, which is much easier, even on the PowerBoost.

I installed Fox on the 4 corners. So they will be coming off somewhere between 30,000-40,000 miles for a rebuild.

But the Fox front shocks have a different lower bolting scheme then the factory so the lower control arm should not need to removed...I hope.

 

[Moe7]

The easiest way is to unbolt the LCA but this will 100% mess your alignment up pretty good. You can mark the current bolts and get it close but its kinda a pain getting it to line back up.

This.

Replacing the actual shock was easy by dropping the LCA, but I had a hell of a time getting the alignment to something driveable afterwards.

 

[Munch]

This.

Replacing the actual shock was easy by dropping the LCA, but I had a hell of a time getting the alignment to something driveable afterwards.

INDEED....front left tried to go to the left coast and right front to the right coast!

But the trick is to measure the distance between to repeatable points on front tires before you raise the truck to begin the job. Once everything is put back together and before completely tightening the LCAs, adjust front wheels back to that distance. Should be good enough to drive to an alignment shop. this technique worked for me and I had to drive 28 miles to the nearest shop!

If you have to drop the LCAs...I would encourage you to install the SPC HD Cam and Caster kit for your truck. An easy install and absolutely "locks in" the alignment.

 

[TG587]

I managed to swap in Bilstein 6112's without dropping or loosening the LCA's. Should I still be taking it to get an alignment?

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

This past summer I replaced my rear shock of my 2021 PB with Bilstein 4600s. Now I am thinking about doing the fronts. I have done front shocks before, on my 2015 Canyon, but I did not have to break apart the knuckle, just remove the sway bar end links. I would have a local shop install the shocks into the strut assembly to avoid dealing with spring compressors. Lastly I want to purchase the shocks myself and clear coat them to cut down on rust/corrosion. Many shops do not like customer supplied parts.

So, is dealing with the knuckle something I should leave to a pro to do?

this isn’t too bad of a job at all. On a newer truck that basically has no rust, you can change both front coil over shocks in about 2 1/2 hours.

 

[sbi]

I recently upgraded my '25 FX4 to Bilstein 5100s ... there was no way I could do this (lack of tools and knowledge). I took it to a shop as it needed springs to be compressed, alignment and additional camber adjustment parts (Raptor spec) to be added to get everything running straight down the road. Worth the money for me ... good luck.

+1

If you give the struts to the shop to compress and replace the shocks, just let them do the whole thing, IMO. Plus - you do need alignment after that.
Shop around for small mom and pops shop. I went through about 10 shops and eventually found one about 25 miles from me who quoted a reasonable price + using my shocks.

 

[Aonarch]

Make sure you remove the CV axle nut and push them out a bit. Really easy to over extend a CV.

The absolute easiest way is to punch out or cut off the factory coilover lower bolts. Either an air hammer or sawzall/ grinder. Then just remove the sway bar end link, undo the UCA ball joint nut, voila, it should pop out easier.

You can remove the brake caliper and/or rotor if lining everything back up is too difficult with the added weight.

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