ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[charliecbp]

Just to confirm, you don't have a USB drive plugged in to the truck, correct?

If we break apart the module repair into 3 different major steps, which step from below is it failing on? From the looks of your logs (below), it sounds like step 1.

1. Update with USB cable (computer to truck harness)
2. Update with Ethernet cable (computer to truck harness)
3. Update with harness reconnected

If it is step 1, what are all of the pieces you're using to connect the harness to the computer? Should be something like: harness > female USB mini to female USB type A adapter > USB type A male to male cable > computer.

I believe further up in the thread, someone had to change out their USB cable to get it working.

The Mach E forums mentioned 5 times trying before you're locked out for a week. I don't know if that's true or not.

Im using an ethernet cable

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[charliecbp]

Also, if I remember correctly, there were 2 or 3 different things installed during the driver install. Make sure you didn't accidentally click on the FDRS window and you have another driver install waiting and hidden behind FDRS.

yes there are 4 or 5 different things in the driver install and I had no hidden windows

 

[JoeBlowFord]

Im using an ethernet cable

Just to be clear, I believe there are three different steps to this module repair. In the first step, you shouldn't be using the ethernet adapter, just the straight USB cable connection. After that completes, in step 2 you'll be prompted to change over to the ethernet adapter.

 

[jeffm4688]

Thanks guys . I’m glad I can help where ford can’t. I don’t know why they can’t see what I see. I wish they could. I hate that guys are leaving dealers incomplete or not working. Techs claiming to be waiting on engineers. They should be able to see what I see in the same time it takes me.

Ford has some real internal issues. They need to get them resolved quickly. The number of people that I have helped are pretty high. I dont say that as a boast but as a concern. People leaving dealerships with no answer with nonfunctioning features. I cant wrap my head around why the Ford "Engineers" cant see what I see at a glance when they are the ones that designed the system.

I dont even know the number of people that are not on forums that just are in the land of the lost with no idea why their truck has lights on the dash and features not working.

I would have no issue with Ford reaching out to me. I would help them. I would even make myself accessible to their service department to train people if that is what they need. The dealers need to open their minds also. I think its obvious how they think from some of the posts made by "Ford technicians" on the forum. They seem to have this idea only they are qualified to do this stuff and they couldnt possibly learn anything from us. If I were a tech and knew this thread existed I would be on here using the resource available. I am willing to bet a couple people I have helped are dealer techs. Just incognito unwilling to admit it. I have been in their FDRS and seen the dealer login versus the non dealer.

Anyways Like I have said I am no where near as needed as I was at one point. It seemed several a day I was remoting in. Im glad that people have the ability to update and take care of their truck or get a better idea of the code they have without dumping their $1000 a month truck off at the dealer for who knows how long.

I think ford did what a lot of people do and that is, scale up the amount of developers in order to do the initial software development and probably scaled down when it got released & I am sure they have a bunch of people working explicitly on bluecruise(and not the update mechanism).

I definetely want to thank you again I am good to go after that update, I did the GWM & an APIM after and I have my adaptive cruise with lane centering working & bluecruise is active as well on the highways now!

 

[Paul Neubauer]

I got my truck all setup to start some of the software updates but can not keep the battery voltage above 12.5 with the ignition on and hooked up to a charger. Does the battery need to be replaced? I have tried two chargers with no change.

 

[Ajzride]

I got my truck all setup to start some of the software updates but can not keep the battery voltage above 12.5 with the ignition on and hooked up to a charger. Does the battery need to be replaced? I have tried two chargers with no change.

Possible. where are you connecting the ground? Is it a charger or a power supply?

 

[Paul Neubauer]

Possible. where are you connecting the ground? Is it a charger or a power supply?

Ground is connected to the bolt next to the battery. The charger is the one recommended on the first page.

 

[Ajzride]

Certainly seems suspect.

 

[JEB]

Ground is connected to the bolt next to the battery. The charger is the one recommended on the first page.

Try connecting the negative to the nut at the other end of that cable, on top of the battery management sensor. The ground is better there.

 

[Paul Neubauer]

Try connecting the negative to the nut at the other end of that cable, on top of the battery management sensor. The ground is better there.

I have tried it in the other location with the same results. As soon as I turn on the ignition, the voltage drops as low as 12.4 volts. I have just left it on the charger for a half hour now to see it it helps. The engine ran for over an hour on the drive home so it would be odd for the battery to be low.

 

[newdeal99]

I try to get mine unstuck and I keep getting fast boot errors saying I am not connected when I am clearly connected as I should be via USB cable. The computer even makes the connected dingle sound. I installed fast boot driver as requested by the software. My charger (power supply 20 amp max current) says the voltage is 13.7 but yet for some reason in the software it says the voltage is 12.8. I also tried going through a USB hub instead of direct to laptop which did not help

 

[abd79]

May be crazy but you’re are turning off your headlights, Radio and HVAC right? These may be causing an un necessary load on your battery while doing these updates and could be the cause of you lower voltage reading.

 

[BHunted1]

I have tried it in the other location with the same results. As soon as I turn on the ignition, the voltage drops as low as 12.4 volts. I have just left it on the charger for a half hour now to see it it helps. The engine ran for over an hour on the drive home so it would be odd for the battery to be low.

Switch to 20 amp mode.

 

[Ajzride]

Switch to 20 amp mode.

actually you want to go I to PWR Supply mode.

 

[Paul Neubauer]

Switch to 20 amp mode.

I am just slowly charging the battery at this point. The voltage is slowly increasing so maybe the battery was just too far discharged and needed a little maintenance. I will see what it does after the charger says it's done and possible need to go have Ford put a new battery in it tomorrow morning.

I have everything possible turned off on the truck that pulls an unnecessary load but the battery and charger could not provide enough voltage even with the setting on 20 amps. I'm glad I bought the software license tonight to work out the bugs and have two full days to update everything this weekend.

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