DON'T DO IT! - Powerboost Transmission Pan Removal

[eproehl]

I was able to get my pan and filter bolt out by disconnecting the trans mount, then jacking up on the trans towards the body, AND prying down on the exhaust without disconnecting it. It was tight and needed a second pair of hands. The filter bolt was the worst - right over the exhaust.

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[{tpc}]

Reminds me of my 2007 Tahoe. Whoever designed that was the worst. The bracket that holds the shift linkage is mounted to the "top" of the transmission, with a smaller torx bit (iirc) and in a blind area where only a 2 year olds hands might fit. even if you manage to get a wrench on it, there isn't enough clearance to put enough torque on it to loosen it.

Guess what blocks that pan from dropping? This stupid bracket (among some other crap). 2 days of fighting with it and almost flatbedding it somewhere before I just bent the bracket out of the way and got the pan out. The transmission lines are just about the same, on top held in place by some odd clip, in an area you can barely get to, and not be able to see it.

Don't get me started on replacing those trans lines...it takes a lot of patience and luck (prob more luck) to get a pre bent line out and a new one back in. I swear at the dealer they must pull the engine out to do stuff like that. But hey, why make it easy? LOL

Note to self, just order stuff right the first time and avoid adding after. Its not worth the time or the headache. In this case it was a used truck that I wanted to add the OEM trans cooler into. I wouldn't make that mistake again.

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

This is why I used a hand pump to pull 5 quarts on two separate occasions and ended up with 10 fresh quarts added.......along with 10 ounces of Lubeguard platinum.

I'd love to hear what the kid from Flyin' Wrenches would say about this topic.

This guy works on a lot of transmissions and his advice makes sense to me.
VVVVVV

 

[Trainmaster]

Interesting video. I've changed dozens of transmission filters and like the video guy, never saw one that had anything in it.

I usually ran them for 70,000 - 100,000 miles if they had synthetic fluid then dropped the pan and changed anything.

With the 10-speed complaints, I may just suck the fluid out at 50,000 miles and not drop the pan until 100,00 now.... Besides, I'm getting too old for this nonsense.

 

[Ajzride]

Interesting video. I've changed dozens of transmission filters and like the video guy, never saw one that had anything in it.

I usually ran them for 70,000 - 100,000 miles if they had synthetic fluid then dropped the pan and changed anything.

With the 10-speed complaints, I may just suck the fluid out at 50,000 miles and not drop the pan until 100,00 now.... Besides, I'm getting too old for this nonsense.

I was at 115,000 with zero service. I had started to notice some hard downshifts. Probably just needed to reset the learning in forscan, but decided to go ahead and change the filter since I was doing the oil anyway. Obviously, basing the difficulty of the job on a 5.0 video was a huge mistake. Powerboost is a whole other level of PITB.

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

Interesting video. I've changed dozens of transmission filters and like the video guy, never saw one that had anything in it.

I usually ran them for 70,000 - 100,000 miles if they had synthetic fluid then dropped the pan and changed anything.

With the 10-speed complaints, I may just suck the fluid out at 50,000 miles and not drop the pan until 100,00 now.... Besides, I'm getting too old for this nonsense.

I'd love to see the Motor Oil Geek do a couple episodes on the different kinds of ATF and their filters.

But I guess he would have to change his channel name to auto fluid geek.

 

[XLT22]

Interesting video. I've changed dozens of transmission filters and like the video guy, never saw one that had anything in it.

I usually ran them for 70,000 - 100,000 miles if they had synthetic fluid then dropped the pan and changed anything.

With the 10-speed complaints, I may just suck the fluid out at 50,000 miles and not drop the pan until 100,00 now.... Besides, I'm getting too old for this nonsense.

The transmission filter isn't designed to filter out every single particulate. It would get plugged in short order. Heck automatic transmissions only had metal filter screens for decades. Modern filters like on the 10R do filter more clutch debris out than older ones for sure though.

 

[Suns_PSD]

I can't get the transmission pan off past the exhaust. This video from ford shows the pan slide right out, but mine will not clear the exhaust.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/videos/WorkShopManual/V27.mp4z

At this point I've remove the transmission cross member and transmission mount (the exhaust attaches to it), and disconnected the exhaust behind the Y-pipe, but the exhaust is so stiff from the turbo back that it still has no flex and I cannot get enough space to get the transmission pan off. Surely I don't need to disconnect the exhuast at the turbos just to change the transmission filter?




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EDIT: Now that it is back together I'll list out all the steps. They are listed chronologically in how I did them, with the number to the left listing the advised order


9) Remove the transmission pan heat shield using 10mm socket
10) Remove the transmission pan bolts using 8mm socket
11) Remove the 6 studs for the heat shield using 13mm socket
4) Remove the nuts from the transmission to cross member bolts using deep well 21mm socket
5) Remove the bolts from the transmission cross member to frame using 18mm end wrench and 15mm socket
3) Remove the Fuel Vapor Canister using 10mm end wrench (soley for the purpose of allowing the drivers side bolts for the cross member to slide out). If you use a socket instead of a wrench, proceed to 3A and 3B, if you use an end wrench, skip to 4
3A) Break a nipple on the fuel canister beacuse it is too close to the bolt you are removing
3B) Plastic weld repair the fuel canister
6) Remove the transmission cross member
7) Remove the transmission mount from the transmission using 18mm socket
8) Jack up the transmission
1) Disconnect the exhaust at the turbos using 15mm socket with about 20 inches of extension and a universal joint
2) Disconnect exhaust at the back of the y-pipe using 15mm socket
12) Remove tranmission pan
13) Remove filter using 12mm ETorx-Plus (good luck finding one. As seen later in the linked thread, most just grind down a regular Etorx from harbor freight)
14) Ensure all 3 rubber pickup tubes for the powerboost specific pickups are properly placed into the transmission (see pictures later in thread). These most likely are floating around in the fluid you removed or the pan.
15)Reassemble

Maybe I missed it but did you go with the aftermarket pan or the OEM pan?

I ordered the aftermarket kit from Rudy's that was linked in the other transmission thread and they are telling me now it doesn't fit the Powerboost.

 

[Ajzride]

Maybe I missed it but did you go with the aftermarket pan or the OEM pan?

I ordered the aftermarket kit from Rudy's that was linked in the other transmission thread and they are telling me now it doesn't fit the Powerboost.

It does not fit a powerboost. The stock pan is the only option for a powerboost.

 

[Suns_PSD]

I'm pretty aggravated at Rudy's diesel since they stated that this was the product for my truck, but it turns out it does not fit my truck.
That said, as long as they cover return shipping, it's fine.

 

[Suns_PSD]

So, I've gotten reasonably educated on this topic in regard to the PB and am going to share the info here and explain what I intend to do below:

1) There is no aftermarket oil pan for the PB, and probably never will be due to it's specific design.
2) There is no practical advantage to dropping the pan and swapping the filter. Yes, you can get another 2-3 quarts or so out, but it's still not thorough.
3) There is no reason to replace the filter. It's just a strainer.
4) Pulling the pan on a PB, is a pretty big job for no gain.
5) Don't flush the trans.
6) Ford should have installed a drain plug, just made it an Allen wrench or something to prevent mistakes.

What I'm going to do:
1) I ordered 3 gallons of ULV (the PB specific fluid) in one-gallon containers from Amsoil (I have a fleet account from a trucking company I used to own and get a nice discount).
2) I have empty Amsoil 1 gallon containers in my garage.
3) I'm going to suck out 4 quarts (or possibly 6) using a simple hand pump through the dipstick tube on the passenger side of the Transmission and put this oil into my used gallon containers for measurement reasons. Then I'll pump in new ULV ATF in the exact same amount I just removed (yes, I'll double check the level again).
4) I have a very angled driveway and might park the truck where the passenger side is lower to try and get more fluid out.
5) I intend to do this ATF partial fluid swap again probably every other oil change (only 1 gallon, or possibly 1.5 gallons) several times until I feel a notable improvement in trans performance or the oil just comes out cleaner looking.
6) Getting the most ATF out the very first time is the most critical as it's all well used, because every time after that about 1/3-3/4 of the oil I'd be removing would be nearly new ATF anyways. Best I can tell is that these transmissions hold 13.5 quarts, if I can only get 4 new quarts in, the next time I remove 4 quarts I'd be getting 30% new oil and only exchanging 70% old oil. Meaning 4 quarts swapped the second time is only 2.8 quarts replacement of old oil, and it just goes down from there!
7) I'm going to incorporate this procedure at least a bit into my regular maintenance, maybe swap a gallon of ATF every 3-4th engine oil change or something along those lines.

 

[Ajzride]

So, I've gotten reasonably educated on this topic in regard to the PB and am going to share the info here and explain what I intend to do below:

1) There is no aftermarket oil pan for the PB, and probably never will be due to it's specific design.
2) There is no practical advantage to dropping the pan and swapping the filter. Yes, you can get another 2-3 quarts or so out, but it's still not thorough.
3) There is no reason to replace the filter. It's just a strainer.
4) Pulling the pan on a PB, is a pretty big job for no gain.
5) Don't flush the trans.
6) Ford should have installed a drain plug, just made it an Allen wrench or something to prevent mistakes.

What I'm going to do:
1) I ordered 3 gallons of ULV (the PB specific fluid) in one-gallon containers from Amsoil (I have a fleet account from a trucking company I used to own and get a nice discount).
2) I have empty Amsoil 1 gallon containers in my garage.
3) I'm going to suck out 4 quarts (or possibly 6) using a simple hand pump through the dipstick tube on the passenger side of the Transmission and put this oil into my used gallon containers for measurement reasons. Then I'll pump in new ULV ATF in the exact same amount I just removed (yes, I'll double check the level again).
4) I have a very angled driveway and might park the truck where the passenger side is lower to try and get more fluid out.
5) I intend to do this ATF partial fluid swap again probably every other oil change (only 1 gallon, or possibly 1.5 gallons) several times until I feel a notable improvement in trans performance or the oil just comes out cleaner looking.
6) Getting the most ATF out the very first time is the most critical as it's all well used, because every time after that about 1/3-3/4 of the oil I'd be removing would be nearly new ATF anyways. Best I can tell is that these transmissions hold 13.5 quarts, if I can only get 4 new quarts in, the next time I remove 4 quarts I'd be getting 30% new oil and only exchanging 70% old oil. Meaning 4 quarts swapped the second time is only 2.8 quarts replacement of old oil, and it just goes down from there!
7) I'm going to incorporate this procedure at least a bit into my regular maintenance, maybe swap a gallon of ATF every 3-4th engine oil change or something along those lines.

If I had it to do over again, this is would be my plan. My oil filter was perfectly clean, and there was virtually nothing on the magnet embedded in the pan. It's a whole lot of work and risk of screwing something up for very little gain in my opnion. Maybe before you start sucking the fulid out, give a few pumps of air to to get everthing agitated a little bit, then run a magnet through what you suck out just to make sure there are no metal flakes in it.

 

[Jmitchelltfo]

After I finished the first round of hand pumping five quarts out and back in, fluid was set to the correct level. I drove it for a day and did the exact same thing the next evening. 10 total quarts went in, along with a 10 ounce bottle of Lubeguard Platinum. Fluid was very nice and red compared to the greyish/pink when I originally checked the dipstick.


This is the exact procedure I used and it worked well.

 

[Suns_PSD]

Okay, so I was able to remove 5.5 quarts from my transmission. It was fully cold by that point.

The old fluid, was straight black (70.5K miles) through the new clear hose of the small hand pump I purchased.

I reinstalled the same quantity but using Amsoil ULV ATF. What surprised me most was how quickly I could tell the trans was different. My trans has been pretty clunky for the last 15-20K miles, it was noticeable. 200' from my driveway I could tell it was catching gears smoother, yet still firm. After a 10 mile drive it was like the vehicle I had purchased with only 9k miles on it, uber smooth nearly invisible shifts, unless I was in to the throttle heavy (which is probably by design from the tune).

IMO, I waited too long to do this service. I'll wait until my next engine oil change in about 7K miles and then I'll do it again, and possibly another time at the following oil change after that as I have the ULV on hand.

My recommendations is that if you have a completely stock truck just commuting, I'd do this rather easy service about every 50K miles. I'd just do on a Saturday morning when it's dead cold under there as you are all up in that cat, it's unavoidable.
If like me, you have heavier tires, an extra 200 rwhp, and/ or have towed (i have all 3), I'd be looking at swapping out about 5 quarts every 3rd oil change in perpetuity. You could make it super easy and just buy 1 gallon replacement jugs and pump out 1 gallon into an old oil container and then just add back in exactly 1 gallon.

I'm not worried about if I am currently +/- .25 quart but after the next fluid swap I will make a point to check the level correctly.

I work at a commercial truck dealership and we have lots of techs certified to work on lots of things. One is certified to work on Ford drivetrains (think RVs, bus', F550s, etc.) and he has experience with the 10R80 version of this trans in other applications and he said that he flushes them by just unhooking one line and having the pickup line into a bucket of fresh fluid. I asked him about reported damage from flushing and he said 'that's from those machines and special cleaners, in this case it's all the normal pressures and quantities of fluid only it's new fluid and the trans doesn't even know. That doesn't harm anything.' It's something to consider anyways.

 

[EricR]

<snip>

I work at a commercial truck dealership and we have lots of techs certified to work on lots of things. One is certified to work on Ford drivetrains (think RVs, bus', F550s, etc.) and he has experience with the 10R80 version of this trans in other applications and he said that he flushes them by just unhooking one line and having the pickup line into a bucket of fresh fluid. I asked him about reported damage from flushing and he said 'that's from those machines and special cleaners, in this case it's all the normal pressures and quantities of fluid only it's new fluid and the trans doesn't even know. That doesn't harm anything.' It's something to consider anyways.

Might he share with us exactly which line he uses for this procedure?

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