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HammaMan

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Even though I didn't get a good recording. I think the monitor is not working.
After the fully charged battery sat 12 hours it showed 12.6v. .3 down. Unfortunately that means I have a current drain. Bummer.
I now have two choices. Both are time consuming. One is to completely update the truck. I'm going to reach out to rugdraw and see where it's at. A fresh update might fix things.
Second is to do the parasitic test.
I need to find the pdf's. The link is somewhere in a couple of my posts.

Snakebitten... you thought I could benefit from disconnecting both batteries. You said it will reset shift. Not that I need it. Perfect transmission shifting. But what else gets reset?
Put your truck on the trickle charger, open the hood, open both front doors, leave the fob in the truck, and open up both fuse box locations. Once it fully sleeps in that configuration (no more lights on, takes 30m or so so just come back to it), start checking the voltage on all of the fuses. To be clear, you're checking the voltage between the 2 points on the fuse itself, not to an external point. That draw is enough that it should show up by checking for voltage drop across the fuse, it will be a very small voltage.

The 3 leg fuses in the BCM, the center leg is the hot, the leg on either side is the fused element. You can use a sharpie to draw a line on a fuse showing voltage to reference. It's a simple method to mark the circuit for later reference.
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Nsmoothrider

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Even though I didn't get a good recording. I think the monitor is not working.
After the fully charged battery sat 12 hours it showed 12.6v. .3 down. Unfortunately that means I have a current drain. Bummer.
I now have two choices. Both are time consuming. One is to completely update the truck. I'm going to reach out to rugdraw and see where it's at. A fresh update might fix things.
Second is to do the parasitic test.
I need to find the pdf's. The link is somewhere in a couple of my posts.

Snakebitten... you thought I could benefit from disconnecting both batteries. You said it will reset shift. Not that I need it. Perfect transmission shifting. But what else gets reset?
The first thing you should have done and what you need to do now is disconnect both batteries. I've had issues with my powerboost audio system crackling after hitting the start button and would not shut off until I disconnected the batteries. Disconnect both batteries let it sit for 2 minutes. Go hit the brakes and the start button to make sure all the capacitors have drained. Then come back up and see if it resets the modules. It doesn't reset anything else at least it didnt in my truck. I believe the radio programing even held. If it doesn't work you have a module problem hopefully it's under warranty so you can have them fix it.

Parasitic to draw can be a nightmare. I have a thermal camera that I use after charging the vehicle to a full charge and letting it sit overnight. Come in the morning when it's cold sweep the vehicle with with camera and see what's warm. It'll tell you what's drawing power, if it's not intermittent. I own the roadside assistance company and have a degree in biology and a minor in chemistry focused on electrochemistry. I see this all the time. You either have a module hung or a bad module. You don't have a battery problem.

Optimas are not a battery I would ever purchase. AGMs are great. I hope they were charging those batteries before they were testing them or they were getting a false bad battery reading.

12 volt car batteries have six cells. Each cell has a voltage of approximately 2.1 3...V your theoretical resting charge should be 12.8v actual observed resting voltage is anywhere between 12.2 and 12.8. this varies due to newer vehicles having parasitic draw. Modules looking for keys all the time and stuff like that. If you let a newer vehicle sit for a week or two you're going to have a dead battery. If you have an AGM battery maybe you get a month. As a battery ages those times will shorten. You definitely don't have a bad battery problem.

Once again disconnect both batteries for 2 minutes go hit the brakes and the start power button just for shits and giggles. Let us know what happens after that. If you still have the same problem you've got a module problem.
 
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Spiffy

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Take a look at this. I have two screen shots. One was yesterday and then today.
Yesterday I disconnected the main battery. That showes up as the far left squigglys. Just the aux was still connected. After about an hour I reconnect the main. Notice that the voltage remained flat over night
With exception to the two drops when I opened the door then the power lift gate.
The next shot was this morning. It continues at the same voltage. I opened the door and the interior lights came on. I went inside and remote started the truck.. first time in three weeks. In today's shot I drove truck, stopped and opened door, opened power tailgate. That's shown in the chart.
3 hours later sitting it sat at 12.58v.
I drove home and now after 1 hour it holding at 12.61v
Ford F-150 Charging rates Screenshot_20241225-115015


Ford F-150 Charging rates Screenshot_20241225-123106


Ford F-150 Charging rates Screenshot_20241225-124155
 
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Spiffy

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So. Disconnecting the battery for a hour or more somehow got the truck working again. I didn't disconnect both batteries at the same time.
 
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Spiffy

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Optimas are not a battery I would ever purchase. AGMs are great. I hope they were
No worries about the optima. I returned it. It was really bad. When they pulled it out it was cracked from being dropped. Bastards tried to hide it. They refunded me promptly. I have a brand new Duracell H7 AGM sitting on a trickle charger that I'm going to swap for the brand new motorcraft H7 the dealer put in.
 

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Nsmoothrider

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So. Disconnecting the battery for a hour or more somehow got the truck working again. I didn't disconnect both batteries at the same time.
You reset the module that was hung. If you disconnect both batteries you reset all modules. So whatever module was causing the problem was running off the main battery not the auxiliary. If you want to save yourself a lot of time and headache next time disconnect both right away. Ha ha glad it wasn't a failed module that had to be replaced. At least for now. I love these trucks, I don't trust them.
 
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Spiffy

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I haven't done the bms reset yet. Everything is working. Do I need to?
 

Nsmoothrider

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I haven't done the bms reset yet. Everything is working. Do I need to?
If it's working fine I wouldn't mess with it. If it starts acting up again disconnect both batteries for 2 minutes. Go hit the brake pedal and start button then reconnecting. If that doesn't fix it you're going to have to take it to the dealer there's a module problem. Hopefully that takes care of it. You'll probably have another problem again eventually. Mine has had a couple. Usually disconnecting the batteries and reconnecting then fixes it. Nothing reoccurring other than transmission issues.
 

Nsmoothrider

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I haven't done the bms reset yet. Everything is working. Do I need to?
Remember when cell phones used to have a detachable battery. And they used to freeze up and hang. And you'd have to remove the battery and hook the battery back up to get them to reset and work properly. That's the phase that we're in with these electronics in these vehicles these days I feel. I see it all the time. Maybe they'll figure it out maybe it'll get worse who knows. They love breaking things with updates as well.
 

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Snakebitten

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I believe 99% of the time that a Forscan reset of a module would succeed at the same thing pulling the fuse or disconnecting power would.

But pulling the negative cable from the battery is much easier to reboot all 40+ modules simultaneously
 
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Spiffy

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If that's all it takes it wouldn't be a hard thing for me to make a remote disconnect. I have a few high amprage (200a) cut off relays 12v could that i salvaged from a trashed fork lift.
Come to think about it my dealer wants me to bring the truck in. They ordered a trailer break modual that keeps failing.
 

Sig Oris

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Remember when cell phones used to have a detachable battery. And they used to freeze up and hang. And you'd have to remove the battery and hook the battery back up to get them to reset and work properly. That's the phase that we're in with these electronics in these vehicles these days I feel. I see it all the time. Maybe they'll figure it out maybe it'll get worse who knows. They love breaking things with updates as well.
When was working we called something like that a Raytheon Reset. Apologies to any RAYCO employees
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