Charging rates

[Sig Oris]

Ford chooses not to fire up the DC/DC converter while the truck is off. So there's no way to maintain the low voltage battery from the HVB if the Electronic Alternator isn't functioning.

Yes, the 2024 Powerboost still has the underhood AGM and the auxiliary AGM under the passenger back seat.

My 2022 Powerboost parked undisturbed yesterday. It didn't bleed but maybe 2/100th of a resting volt

Credit @HammaMan for the lab work that led to this stability

Are you getting all this data from that Amazon BT volt meter?

if so, mind sharing that link again or PM me as to not awaken Post Patrol?

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[Gros Ventre]

Cost, Schedule, Quality

you only get to pick two

You only get to pick two... but the list should be four. The fourth is the basic electro-chemistry. No matter what else you do, it will rule things. So long as the alternator is capable of putting out more than 30 amps, it'll suffice to keep the battery charged so long as you don't engage in a series of short on-offs. If you want to discuss the programming... that's another thing. Observing my system voltage I see no issue with programming on my truck except that the temperature compensation sensor is located outside of the engine compartment.

 

[Spiffy]

Credit @HammaMan for the lab work that led to this stability

Im hoping he chimes in. I keep throwing in time and money.

 

[Snakebitten]

Just search based on description in the screenshot. I think it's got multiple listings.

 

[Snakebitten]

Im hoping he chimes in. I keep throwing in time and money.

He's posted quite a bit about substituting a small LFP battery for the AGM auxiliary battery. I finally decided the cheap investment of an inexpensive Chinese LFP battery was worth trying out. There's really no downside unless I lived in an environment where the interior of the truck was going to experience brutal cold temperatures. Not likely down here on the Gulf Coast. ?

I don't think it's a solution for a vehicle that has a serious parasitic draw or a faulty underhood AGM. But it does a great job as a supplement member of a 2 battery parallel setup like my Powerboost.

 

[Spiffy]

I removed the agm aux at 1pm. In 5 hours I lost this. Next is to disconnect the audio system. I don't think that's the issue because my voltage draw down would keep going down. Unless the truck is shedding that current

 

[Snakebitten]

Is the arrow the point of truck being turned off?

 

[Spiffy]

Yes

 

[Spiffy]

The Ford agm aux battery shows 100% at 12.8v while the new Duracell agm that I haven't installed yet is showing 100% at 13.4v.
Voltage and % are being shown by my pro logix pl2320.
Is that an concern?

 

[Spiffy]

I think I'm going to remove the main agm. Charge it up using the smart charger and compair voltage drops. Looking at all three batteries.
I'm not looking foward to testing parasitic draw as explained in that pdf. It's a ton of time.

 

[Snakebitten]

I have looked at many hundreds of those voltmeter log files and that linear voltage drop spanning 4-5 hours is remarkable. I've not seen anything like it before.

 

[Spiffy]

If it were a parasitic draw how, what kind of amps woukd draw that amount?

 

[Snakebitten]

I don't know, but it's beyond normal resting draw on these trucks. And it's so consistent and linear. Yet stops suddenly as the voltage reaches ~11.8

I think that's about where Ford puts the truck into deep sleep?

 

[Spiffy]

I have witnessed the battery saver screen immediately when shutting it off.

I remember reading about how the truck handles shedding. First it's heated wheel and seats. Then the next unnecessary things. Then the audio amp.
I have a aftermarket amps. It's been installed for a year now. This problem just started.

I was thinking it might be a bad idea to pull both batteries? I was going to compair both agm drops.

 

[Snakebitten]

Why is it a bad idea to remove both batteries?
It's actually recommended to disconnect both batteries when swapping out the auxiliary.

It will likely reset your transmission Adaptive Tables. But that's not a bad thing in my opinion.

I'm stunned a brand new H7 is already failing to hold a good charge. Unless that's just a faulty battery, there's something drawing pretty hard when you shut your truck down. But maybe disconnecting both batteries might actually fix a hung module?

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