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Brake upgrades?

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The_Auto_Tech

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I’ve been following the guys with the ABS issues very closely, from what I have seen those problems no longer exist because Ford updated the brake controller software (OTA and via dealerships) and worked with the brake kit manufacturers.

In the last 6 months, Wilwood has officially released the TX6R big brake kit w/15.50” rotor (same kit as 2011-2020 trucks except brake lines) and a direct-mount Aero kit w/13.36“ rotor for 21+.
I have my TX6R kit from my old truck (installed right before ordering my new truck) that I will be installing when time permits.
Just commenting that this is a current issue with this truck, and not a previous one that had been fixed.
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HammaMan

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Thanks for posting about these, been wanting to do something less than a true BBK and more than powerstop (loved that kit on both a RAM and Gladiator) but this seems like the best of all worlds if one is not wanting to drop a bunch on money on a decent brake upgrade.
Yeah, anyone wanting additional capability for brakes, these can't be beat for the price/benefit ratio. I'll be doing braided lines at the same time as well as painting calipers.

Ford F-150 Brake upgrades? 1731648121941-ql
 

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My 350mm rear brake swap is going surprisingly smoothly

Ford F-150 Brake upgrades? 20241116_155349
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SALEEN961

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What parts had to be swapped? All of them look awfully clean
I swapped out a little more than what was absolutely needed, but the bare minimum is new calipers, new caliper brackets, new rotors, brake fluid, new crush washers for the brake lines, and a few bolts. I'll post a full list of everything I used with part numbers later tonight.

I don't think this swap is easily done on a super 8.8" rear axle, but it looks fairly simple for those of us with the 9.75" semi-float rear axle.
 

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I was hoping to hear something like caliper mounting bracket and rotor
 

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More powerful brakes might help on steep downgrades with a heavy load in the bed but that is not a common situation. Easy to lock the brakes on my F-150 and then it is the tires that determine the overall braking distance.
 

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Here's the part list I used to convert from 336mm medium duty brakes to 350mm heavy duty rear brakes:

(2) ML3Z-2C026-C brake rotors
(1) ML3Z-2200-E brake pad set
(1) ML3Z-2553-D LR caliper
(1) ML3Z-2552-C RR caliper
(4) W711784-S300 crush washers
(2) ML3Z-2B511-G caliper brackets
(4) W718680-S439 caliper bracket bolts
(1) ATE DOT 4 SL.6 Brake Fluid

If you pay full list price for everything the total cost of converting to the 350mm heavy duty rear brakes is about $1,100.

The whole swap was very simple, the only issue was the reduced clearance between the brake rotors and the backing plates. With the thicker 350mm rotors installed, the clearance was slightly under 1mm at the raised lip of the backing plate, but there was plenty of clearance everywhere else. I gently tweaked the backing plates back until I had about 3mm of clearance.
 

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Did you do anything to the fronts? What was the goal? Thanks
 

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Did you do anything to the fronts? What was the goal? Thanks
I haven't done anything to the front brakes yet. My issue was excessive and uneven pad transfer on the rear rotors from the rear brakes getting too hot. I wanted larger rear rotors that could act as a better heat sink and keep the temperatures more reasonable. The larger rotors should also result in roughly 4% more braking force at the rear axle.

At some point in the future, I might install the Bear Brakes 381mm Big Claw brake kit. Overall I like the way it installs, but I am curious to see how everything lines up with the 31mm larger diameter, but 4mm thinner rotors.
 

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Don't buy brake upgrades other than pads and rotors if you really want them; reinvest that money into upkeep on your trailer brakes.

Some guy I know drove to Iowa from Texas to buy an old tractor pull combine, and when leaving, looked straight at his weight distribution hitch and said "I've done the math, this will only weigh 5000# and I don't need that hassle in my life so I will take only the hitch and leave everything else safely at home because there is no possible future in which the trailer will be heavier than I have anticipated." Needless to say, my "friend" is not very bright. Fast forward and he has driven across most of 2 states with the weight heavily biased towards the rear axle ("Carolina Lean, baby! Wooooo!") and despite comically bad decision making, he remains alive and his truck remains in one piece.

Take away: forget 19 caliper brakes, and just make sure that your weight distribution hitch works and IS ATTACHED TO YOUR VEHICLE and that your trailer brakes are functional and maintained. Freebie Extra Pro Tip: Be smarter than my "friend" and plan for stuff that you didn't anticipate.
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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Should be getting this wrapped up next weekend. I also have a bunch of stuff from Quick Performance to upgrade the rear diff during this time as well. :)
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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Anyone here installed the TBM Brakes in the rear with an 8.8" diff? Running into an issue that the caliper bracket ears are spaced too far apart compared to the factory diff flange. Thanks!
 

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Anyone here installed the TBM Brakes in the rear with an 8.8" diff? Running into an issue that the caliper bracket ears are spaced too far apart compared to the factory diff flange. Thanks!
The Super 8.8" spacing is closer together than the 9.75" spacing, you might have the wrong brackets. Measure the distance between the bolt holes, center to center and I'll compare it to the extra 9.75" brackets I have in my garage.
 
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The_Auto_Tech

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The Super 8.8" spacing is closer together than the 9.75" spacing, you might have the wrong brackets. Measure the distance between the bolt holes, center to center and I'll compare it to the extra 9.75" brackets I have in my garage.
That's what I was thinking. TBM says fits all 11-24 F-150 2WD and 4WD, but I know that there's option for the 8.8 or 9.75 in those years, so I'm wondering if they built the kit on the 9.75 diff. I'll try and get a measurement off the 8.8 brackets and the TBM brackets as well.
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