Battery tender

[Blueonblue]

Anyone have any advice on using a battery tender? I know there are two 12v batteries and the hybrid battery. I keep getting my truck going into deep sleep mode and I drive it every day. I'm assuming I had one of the trucks that was sitting on the lot waiting for chips and it drained the battery. I've thought about just replacing the batteries but I'd rather not drop $500 into my brand new truck already. Dealer said batteries tested fine after a no start issue I had.

Just want some feedback on a battery tender JR or something like that before I go frying the entire electrical system.

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[HammaMan]

Anyone have any advice on using a battery tender? I know there are two 12v batteries and the hybrid battery. I keep getting my truck going into deep sleep mode and I drive it every day. I'm assuming I had one of the trucks that was sitting on the lot waiting for chips and it drained the battery. I've thought about just replacing the batteries but I'd rather not drop $500 into my brand new truck already. Dealer said batteries tested fine after a no start issue I had.

Just want some feedback on a battery tender JR or something like that before I go frying the entire electrical system.

There's various hardwire units out there. A 2a is plenty, hardwire is the easiest to just plug in its little end vs having to run a cord, popping the hood, etc...

 

[Snakebitten]

Be sure to hook up the negative lead of the trickle charger properly, in order for the BMS to see/be aware of the current that you are feeding into the battery.

In other words, don't use the actual negative post on the battery.

#1 or #2 in the image below would be great spots

 

[Blueonblue]

Be sure to hook up the negative lead of the trickle charger properly, in order for the BMS to see/be aware of the current that you are feeding into the battery.

In other words, don't use the actual negative post on the battery.

#1 or #2 in the image below would be great spots

No kidding. It almost feels strange hooking a tender up like a jump starter. Im absolutly terrified to jump start this truck. I can only imagine what electrical nightmares that will bring. If I put a tender on the 12v under the hood that should also charge the one under the back seat correct?

 

[Davexxxx]

Is this problem an amp draw problem, or a voltage problem?

Its super easy to check voltage on either the engine, or under seat 12V batts. You don't need a dealer for that.

And with an amp clamp, you should be able to know what parasitic draws there are and some of the conditions for them.

 

[Davexxxx]

No kidding. It almost feels strange hooking a tender up like a jump starter. Im absolutly terrified to jump start this truck. I can only imagine what electrical nightmares that will bring. If I put a tender on the 12v under the hood that should also charge the one under the back seat correct?

There is a section in the owner's manual for jump starting.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...ingEnabled=False&userMarket=USA&buildtype=web

There is a section for charging too but doesn't seem as clear.

 

[Snakebitten]

No kidding. It almost feels strange hooking a tender up like a jump starter. Im absolutly terrified to jump start this truck. I can only imagine what electrical nightmares that will bring. If I put a tender on the 12v under the hood that should also charge the one under the back seat correct?

Yes, both batteries would be charged since they are only isolated from each other during a high amperage cranking event.

I'd like to think that Jumpstarting a Powerboost should be rare.
I say that because in a way it is capable of Jumpstarting itself.

I'll explain. Lol

If you have a weak 12V battery and it is already causing the various crazy jekyll/Hyde symptoms that a weak battery can trigger, then you are likely to replace the battery before it is so weak that it would inhibit the ICE from starting.
In fact, you are already addressing your battery because the truck is exhibiting it's built in first level of 12V protection by putting the truck into deep sleep.

But let's say you ignore it. At least for a while.

One thing a Powerboost has available that an ICE truck doesn't is the High Voltage Hybrid battery. And unlike the ICE vehicle requiring the crankshaft to be turning in order for the alternator to charge the 12V battery, your Powerboost starts charging the 12V battery the moment you turn the ignition on. Even if the ICE isn't running.

So arguably, you could look at it like you have jumper cables going from the Hybrid battery to the 12V battery the moment you turn the ignition on.

Of course the Hybrid battery is being depleted as it "boosts" the 12V battery. So if you knew your 12V needed the boost/charge for a few minutes, just make sure you turn off HVAC and headlights so that they aren't robbing the Hybrid battery of energy the 12V battery could make better use of.

It's also not a bad idea if you think your 12V battery is exhibiting weakness, for you to let your ICE idle when you get home and shift into Park. Wait until the ICE shuts down before you shut the truck off and get out.
This ensures you have a high SOC on the Hybrid battery so that you have a nice amount of potential "charge time" for the 12V battery, should you need it.

 

[HammaMan]

The only gripe @Snakebitten is that the DC/DC isolates when the starter is activated. It alone could start the truck!

The ole hit the gas before shutting off will charge the HVB to 55% SOC and then shut off ICE. That's about 160wh of free 12v power to feed the batts on key hit. Another trick to keeping the 12v high is to turn off exit lighting and lock the truck shutting down all lighting. It's not a lot of juice it uses, but it helps.

Orrrr.... LFP aux batt

 

[Snakebitten]

The only gripe @Snakebitten is that the DC/DC isolates when the starter is activated. It alone could start the truck!

So true, ain't it?
But there's some reason Ford chose to isolate for the cranking event. I figured you would have theories of why they chose to.

 

[HammaMan]

So true, ain't it?
But there's some reason Ford chose to isolate for the cranking event. I figured you would have theories of why they chose to.

I think the isolator is only rated to 150a. Otherwise that thing could bump to 15.8v or so and really get it started quick

In fact ford should have made that part of the logic in the first place. Jump to 15.8v but artificially limit the DC/DC output to 140a. That'd be enough.

 

[Blueonblue]

Yes, both batteries would be charged since they are only isolated from each other during a high amperage cranking event.

I'd like to think that Jumpstarting a Powerboost should be rare.
I say that because in a way it is capable of Jumpstarting itself.

I'll explain. Lol

If you have a weak 12V battery and it is already causing the various crazy jekyll/Hyde symptoms that a weak battery can trigger, then you are likely to replace the battery before it is so weak that it would inhibit the ICE from starting.
In fact, you are already addressing your battery because the truck is exhibiting it's built in first level of 12V protection by putting the truck into deep sleep.

But let's say you ignore it. At least for a while.

One thing a Powerboost has available that an ICE truck doesn't is the High Voltage Hybrid battery. And unlike the ICE vehicle requiring the crankshaft to be turning in order for the alternator to charge the 12V battery, your Powerboost starts charging the 12V battery the moment you turn the ignition on. Even if the ICE isn't running.

So arguably, you could look at it like you have jumper cables going from the Hybrid battery to the 12V battery the moment you turn the ignition on.

Of course the Hybrid battery is being depleted as it "boosts" the 12V battery. So if you knew your 12V needed the boost/charge for a few minutes, just make sure you turn off HVAC and headlights so that they aren't robbing the Hybrid battery of energy the 12V battery could make better use of.

It's also not a bad idea if you think your 12V battery is exhibiting weakness, for you to let your ICE idle when you get home and shift into Park. Wait until the ICE shuts down before you shut the truck off and get out.
This ensures you have a high SOC on the Hybrid battery so that you have a nice amount of potential "charge time" for the 12V battery, should you need it.

Thats pretty much what im doing in the meantime. I have my truck in generator mode right now with a dehuminifier plugged into the back seat 110v (watter bottle tipped over in the back seat) so as the truck starts and stops to charge the hybrid batters it should top off all the batteries. I really dont want that to be by go-to though. Id rater pay the 50 cents a day plugging it into my house to keep the batteries maintained.

 

[Mszczewski]

Be sure to hook up the negative lead of the trickle charger properly, in order for the BMS to see/be aware of the current that you are feeding into the battery.

In other words, don't use the actual negative post on the battery.

#1 or #2 in the image below would be great spots

I went a little overkill with my tender at ten amps. Having said that I tied my negative in at position #1 as it was the easiest and cleanest to route everything to.

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/posts/263506/

 

[SemperVee]

Is this problem an amp draw problem, or a voltage problem?

Its super easy to check voltage on either the engine, or under seat 12V batts. You don't need a dealer for that.

And with an amp clamp, you should be able to know what parasitic draws there are and some of the conditions for them.

Whenever I only drive locally for a few days in town I normally put the batt on a 6 amp tender to charge it up - as the BMS does not let it chare fully to 12.9 rather only to 12.3 ish...

 

[Ry55]

I just set my Powerboost up for a two month hibernation. I remembered reading about an 18amp phantom battery drain so I set the Clore smart charger to 20 amps, counting on it to fully charger, maintain, and exercise my 12v battery while I'm away.

I only picked up the truck last week and every night I was getting the FordPass "features disabled" notification. When I plugged the battery in it was only at 65%. Hoping a good long charge and "exercise" will bring it up to speed.

Thanks for the battery diagram @Snakebitten ! Super helpful for connecting the charger.

Now I just have to dream about driving my truck again until we're reunited in July. ? I can guarantee you my wife is going to get sick of hearing about it.

 

[PaulGrun]

Be sure to hook up the negative lead of the trickle charger properly, in order for the BMS to see/be aware of the current that you are feeding into the battery.

In other words, don't use the actual negative post on the battery.

#1 or #2 in the image below would be great spots

Any idea what #3 is?
At the moment, I have the ring terminals for a Battery Tender
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