Anyone remove the ProPower 2k?

[Blochead21]

Do we know what parts and harnesses it would take to upgrade to the 7.2kw?

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[Snakebitten]

2.4KW & 7.2KW are exclusive to a Powerboost. It's tied into the logic of the High Voltage battery management and is even plumbed for watercooling.
The inverter is not inside the cab either.

 

[ks54703]

What issue did you have? What were the symptoms?

Just like you intermittent use problems with errors. The 2 small wires are low voltage wires that are for sensing and if the connection is not in optimal condition these sensing system are basically going to give headaches.

It is a must that these connection are in good operating condition as these wires are constantly monitored and the slightest flick of a bad circuit the equipment is shut down

These low voltage sensing circuits are at very low voltage and current and do not have the power to jump or pass through any corrosion or contamination of the connector thus giving a faulty signal to the cpu which then shuts down the power circuit. You hit the right bump and it may or may not be enough to make a complete circuit then getting into the bed or putting something in the bed maybe enough to momentary open the circuit.

Good luck.

 

[Samson16]

Just like you intermittent use problems with errors. The 2 small wires are low voltage wires that are for sensing and if the connection is not in optimal condition these sensing system are basically going to give headaches.

It is a must that these connection are in good operating condition as these wires are constantly monitored and the slightest flick of a bad circuit the equipment is shut down

These low voltage sensing circuits are at very low voltage and current and do not have the power to jump or pass through any corrosion or contamination of the connector thus giving a faulty signal to the cpu which then shuts down the power circuit. You hit the right bump and it may or may not be enough to make a complete circuit then getting into the bed or putting something in the bed maybe enough to momentary open the circuit.

Good luck.

I haven't had any problems, but your advice is certainly sound. Thank you.

 

[draggam01]

I think that replacing the seats with plastic crates is the next logical step. Furthermore, what kind of sissy needs AC or windows?

Kidding aside, I think that there is a sensible middle ground between taking a dump before towing to stay under payload and installing a 4" lift kit and 37"s before towing a 12k# 35' travel trailer. I agree that the 2.4kW system is less useful than 7.2, but it still offers a lot of functionality. I would expend a lot of effort troubleshooting the inverter issues before removing the whole thing to save a few pounds. I think that you'll eventually encounter a situation where you miss having electrical power on standby, while any practical issue with towing could be better addressed with E-rated tires, an anti-sway bar, a good WDH that is properly set up and upgraded brake discs/pads.

I feel your frustration, but fair or not, these trucks are projects/starting points coming off of the assembly line. I think that the "I paid $xxx,xxx for this stupid truck, so it should do what it says on the tin!" argument has merit, but it does not reflect reality. Should I have to spend 2 hours fighting with the wiring harness because Ford decided not to include two measly wires that enable the trailer camera and TPMS? No, but I did. Should Ford engineer a subwoofer/amp that doesn't sound like a flatulent marine mammal and isn't a fire hazard? They should, but they chose not to. Should Ford use modern CFD software and/or basic common sense to design their exhaust manifolds? Yep, but again, they didn't. Should Ford use more than heavy gauge aluminum foil and plastic to build a bumper? Yep, but they couldn't be troubled. Should Ford use a more substantial material than fiberboard to construct a skid plate protecting the transmission on their off-road package? You get the drift...

I would love to live in a world where automakers responded to customers, but we don't live in that world. What we do have is a very popular truck with solid aftermarket support and a great community that works together. To that end, I would encourage you to fight through the half-baked engineering to make your inverter work while allowing a reasonable fudge factor in your payload calculations.

LOL, I agree on all above points. Now I need to go find a post that shows how to run the two wires for the backup camera and TPMS. Off to another project to fix something that would of been more easily done by the manufacturer. Regardless off my trucks shortcomings I am happy with my 21 PB.

 

[Bbsound]

So here is some more details on the ProPower setup. https://pickuptrucktalk.com/2020/10...-2021-ford-f-150-pro-power-onboard-explained/

TLDR is only the powerboost have an extra battery for the ProPower.
Given you posted this in the 2.7 ecoboost section, you would have the 2KW system which is just using an inverter after the 12v battery to produce a pure sine wave at the outlet.

Im not sure removing the inverter is really going to buy much in terms of payload and probably more headaches with DTCs.

No, the 2KW uses a separate 24volt alternator and there are 2x12volt batteries in series under the backseat passenger side. The inverter is under the back seat drivers side.

 

[amschind]

LOL, I agree on all above points. Now I need to go find a post that shows how to run the two wires for the backup camera and TPMS. Off to another project to fix something that would of been more easily done by the manufacturer. Regardless off my trucks shortcomings I am happy with my 21 PB.

There's a thread on it, and I can confirm that following the directions will work. Unless you are REALLY into saving money and have a LOT of free time, I would advise you to buy the harness and just replace it. I was upset about tossing an otherwise perfectly good factory harness as well, but I'm channeling that frustration into calling out Ford rather than wasting my own time.

 

[GraniteState]

I have a ‘21 2.7 with the 2k pro power that has never worked. Ever. I always get a ground error, or some other error, so it’s of no use to me. Has anyone ever deleted the pro power 2k to regain payload capacity?

 

[GraniteState]

OP has a great question that nobody has reallyanswered.

Has anybody physically removed the propower hardware from their truck? I'd also like to remove the unit from under my rear seat. The reason why isn't important and I don't care to debate it. I'd like to know if it is as simple as unplugging, unscrewing, disconnecting, etc., or if some Forscan steps are involved. Has anybody done this or can they point me in a direction that may help please?

 

[GraniteState]

Oops, 2023 Screw, EB, 6 1/2 bed Lariat

 

[KTM753]

OP has a great question that nobody has reallyanswered.

Has anybody physically removed the propower hardware from their truck? I'd also like to remove the unit from under my rear seat. The reason why isn't important and I don't care to debate it. I'd like to know if it is as simple as unplugging, unscrewing, disconnecting, etc., or if some Forscan steps are involved. Has anybody done this or can they point me in a direction that may help please?

The 2nd 24 volt alternator under the hood runs on it's own belt separate from A/C compressor etc. so removing it should be easy. The (2) 12 volt batteries under passenger side back seat are easy to get to. Under a plastic cover. Just remove them. Inverter is a little tougher, under a bigger plastic cover on drivers side rear seat. But should be able to unplug it and unbolt it.

Things to consider: your in-cab and dash 120 volt outlets will no longer work. And unsure of DTCs and Forscan work needed to prevent them.

My 2 cents: consider all the above and make the choice best for you... Mine powers a baby bottle warmer in cab just fine but shits the bed with any real load on the bed outlet. I wish that wasn't the case but I don't see a need to remove the system. Your mileage may vary...

 

[HammaMan]

There's also a batt current transformer the PCM watches for the system (forscan disableable). The aux batt box is the same in the powerboost, easy to remove. You're going to likely be left with a 4ga power cable that runs from the 2nd alt back to the battery/inverter. You can't just leave that alone unless you unplug it from the alternator. If you do remove the alternator or disconnect that wire, you have to take out the rear seats and pull off the passenger side plastic C pillar and you can pull that 4ga cable out of the batt box/under the carpet and leave it behind the c pillar plastics.

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