Anyone remove rear blocks?

[lilburnedbear]

Sorry if i dont understand. If im only jacking up the leaf spring (with wheel on ground) i dont see how i can roll the wheel. I can berely rock it. Are you saying to jack the wheel separately at the axle too a little bit to get the the shift the axle fore/aft to align?

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[TXBJJ]

When I did this a few months ago I at first tried lowering my jack slowly and getting the pins to align as I got closer. I ultimately figured out to just lower the jack quickly and they went right into place. Not sure if that was the best idea but it worked well on my end.

 

[nikon858]

Sorry if i dont understand. If im only jacking up the leaf spring (with wheel on ground) i dont see how i can roll the wheel. I can berely rock it. Are you saying to jack the wheel separately at the axle too a little bit to get the the shift the axle fore/aft to align?

Nope, you’re doing exactly what I did. Put my jack on the leaf spring. The drivers side lined up no problem. Passenger side was off, looked to see which way it needed to go and rolled the tire that way before I put the weight back on it. With no weight on the axle it moved pretty easily. If you still can’t move it enough I guess you could chock the front wheels and put the truck in neutral. It’ll roll then!

 

[z.l.davis]

I bought mine used, found the rear blocks in the back underseat, looked under the truck and sure enough it was reverse lever. I’m happy with it. Clears 285/60r20

 

[lilburnedbear]

Alright 3rd time’s a charm. Could NOT get the guide pins to seat on the right leaf spring with just jacking and lowering. I tried twice.

So I decided to put the truck on jack stands at the rear end of the frame. idea was to take the trucks weight off the springs mostly. Then jacked the axle up and took the right rear wheel off, loosen the axle bolts and dropped the jack enough to get the block out. With the axle supported by the floor jack and the springs only carrying their own weight gave me enough wiggle room to move the axle slightly forward to get the pins aligned with the hole then could jack it up flush and tighten the axle bolts. Put the wheel back on and lowered down to tighten the axle bolts.

Wouldn’t you know the left side for whatever reason I could just jack the darn spring up and lower it flush with the guide pins aligned after I took the block out with the wheel on the ground. Weird.

Anyway, like the look. Drove it around for some errands and let it get it settled. Then put on the Steeda rear anti-sway bar and swapped out the rear shocks for Bilstein 5100s.

The thing is transformed. Thanks for all the advice, everyone.

 

[Gooddog1949]

Alright 3rd time’s a charm. Could NOT get the guide pins to seat on the right leaf spring with just jacking and lowering. I tried twice.

So I decided to put the truck on jack stands at the rear end of the frame. idea was to take the trucks weight off the springs mostly. Then jacked the axle up and took the right rear wheel off, loosen the axle bolts and dropped the jack enough to get the block out. With the axle supported by the floor jack and the springs only carrying their own weight gave me enough wiggle room to move the axle slightly forward to get the pins aligned with the hole then could jack it up flush and tighten the axle bolts. Put the wheel back on and lowered down to tighten the axle bolts.

Wouldn’t you know the left side for whatever reason I could just jack the darn spring up and lower it flush with the guide pins aligned after I took the block out with the wheel on the ground. Weird.

Anyway, like the look. Drove it around for some errands and let it get it settled. Then put on the Steeda rear anti-sway bar and swapped out the rear shocks for Bilstein 5100s.

The thing is transformed. Thanks for all the advice, everyone.

what part number for the Bilstein shocks ?

 

[lilburnedbear]

5100
https://www.stage3motorsports.com/33-253190-15-22-f150-4wd-bilstein-5100-rear-shock.html

 

[FirstFord]

Then put on the Steeda rear anti-sway bar and swapped out the rear shocks for Bilstein 5100s.

Did removing the rear blocks "push" you into changing rear shocks, and if so, how? Or did you just want to change them regardless, and the timing was coincidental? Not arguing at all - just curious...

 

[lilburnedbear]

No I wanted to change up the truck’s propensity to lean and wallow. First piece was improving the dampening with new shocks all around. I’m getting fronts swapped out next week - also 5100s.

The blocks came out for 2 reasons. 1) because I wanted to level but not lift and 2) because I bought the Steeda antisway bar for 2wd variant and wanted to make sure I had enough thread engagement in the shorter end links for the bar to be level.

It just happened that I did it all at the same time.

 

[vinnie45acp]

I just removed my Blocks, it went really smooth, HOWEVER, when I was done I went and checked my rake on both sides and I have a 2" rake still on Driver side and barely a 1.5" rake on passenger side, I thought maybe I did something wrong, so I went back under and double checked everything and everything seems fine. All my tire pressures are right and the fuel tank extra weight is on the driver side so you would think it would the side lower, not higher. Any suggestions, or anyone having the same issues?

 

[vinnie45acp]

No I wanted to change up the truck’s propensity to lean and wallow. First piece was improving the dampening with new shocks all around. I’m getting fronts swapped out next week - also 5100s.

The blocks came out for 2 reasons. 1) because I wanted to level but not lift and 2) because I bought the Steeda antisway bar for 2wd variant and wanted to make sure I had enough thread engagement in the shorter end links for the bar to be level.

It just happened that I did it all at the same time.

I just dropped my rear by removing the rear Blocks as well, and was also thinking of putting a Steeda Sway Bar on, but I thought they only made them for 4x4's, any reason you felt it was important to do the 2 wheel drive? SO that is the one I should get as well? for what clearances, bolt and everything aligning properly?

 

[lilburnedbear]

Sure. Check out this swaybar string. There’s a lot of discussion about 4 pages in on the endlink length of the 4wd versions that are more generous to afford those that lift the rears. The 2wd end links are several inches shorter by design. For us who chose to drop or keep stock heights in order to adjust per the manufacturer’s suggestion the bars cannot be made parallel to ground without modifying the end links (read: cut).

I chose to drop my rear by removing blocks and took a chance that there was enough thread in the rods to afford a level bar adjustment - and there was more than enough. I think I had about 1” of thread engagement on both sides of the endlinks.

If you don’t intend to lift I think this is a better choice. Probably (maybe) even with the blocks left in. As often said though, do as you are comfortable.

 

[lilburnedbear]

In danger of playing Capt Obvious, are you sure the guide pins are fully seated on both sides?

 

[lilburnedbear]

what part number for the Bilstein shocks ?

Sorry i just realized you wanted the part number not the model number. I bought 2 of these from Stage 3 motorsports.

BIL33-253190 15-23 F150 4WD Bilstein 5100 Rear Shock

 

[Billy Ray]

Not, yet. But I plan try it soon. I'll see how I like it, and put them back if the boat makes its squat too much for my liking. I just want to verify I have enough thread on the U-bolts. I can’t seem to find the oem 2wd ones anywhere...yet.

I believe only the 4wd has blocks, but there are 3 different blocks for the 4wd based on wheelbase and payload configuration.

Do you happen to know the different sizes of these blocks?

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