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Anyone put a aftermarket sub and amp in their Powerboost yet??

RSKTakR

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Was going to put a JL Audio 12" sub and JL Audio 550/1 amp with a AudioControl LC2i in my new 23 Powerboost (does NOT have the B&O system). Thought I would see if there was anything special I would need to install since this is my first hybrid vehicle? Or is there no difference between this truck and my 2019 F150 3.5 Ecoboost that I have the same system in when it comes to this?
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Was going to put a JL Audio 12" sub and JL Audio 550/1 amp with a AudioControl LC2i in my new 23 Powerboost (does NOT have the B&O system). Thought I would see if there was anything special I would need to install since this is my first hybrid vehicle? Or is there no difference between this truck and my 2019 F150 3.5 Ecoboost that I have the same system in when it comes to this?

The LC2I is not the proper solution for these trucks. From the factory, they apply an EQ on the interior speakers to remove the low bass frequencies to protect them from damage. The proper way to integrate is to use a Kicker KeyLOC (Properly Programmed) so it can analyze, restore, and convert the signal. Then you can feed that to your JL Amplifier.
 
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RSKTakR

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The LC2I is not the proper solution for these trucks. From the factory, they apply an EQ on the interior speakers to remove the low bass frequencies to protect them from damage. The proper way to integrate is to use a Kicker KeyLOC (Properly Programmed) so it can analyze, restore, and convert the signal. Then you can feed that to your JL Amplifier.
What do you mean (properly programmed) and which KeyLOC should I be looking for? Looks like I would just need to tap into an existing speaker wire set for the signal that would also feed into the KeyLOC?
 

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What do you mean (properly programmed) and which KeyLOC should I be looking for? Looks like I would just need to tap into an existing speaker wire set for the signal that would also feed into the KeyLOC?
The KeyLOC needs to be programmed before it works. You can read up on the instruction manual that comes with it and go through the steps.
 

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RSKTakR

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The KeyLOC needs to be programmed before it works. You can read up on the instruction manual that comes with it and go through the steps.
Reading about it now.. I see a 47KeyLOC.. is that what I would be after?
 

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While not a PB - I installed kicker keyloc in my 5.0 to feed into amp for my dual 8’s under rear seat. Setup/tuning was a breeze.
Ford F-150 Anyone put a aftermarket sub and amp in their Powerboost yet?? IMG_0714
 

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While not a PB - I installed kicker keyloc in my 5.0 to feed into amp for my dual 8’s under rear seat. Setup/tuning was a breeze.
IMG_0714.jpeg
Which amp did you get? How did you route power and ground to the amp? If routed power thru firewall grommet, did you utilize the passenger or driver side grommet? Did ground wiring follow power wiring or did you ground on the backside of the cab? Got any installation photos you could share?
 

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Which amp did you get? How did you route power and ground to the amp? If routed power thru firewall grommet, did you utilize the passenger or driver side grommet? Did ground wiring follow power wiring or did you ground on the backside of the cab? Got any installation photos you could share?
Kicker cx800.1

I did not want to mess with grommets that had factory wiring so I ran power down driver side under trim pieces. Down under the truck via blank grommet in floorboard. Wrapped in heavy duty plastic shielding and wrapped in double layered electric tape with another bundle of wires that runs along the frame under the truck and up into engine bay
Ford F-150 Anyone put a aftermarket sub and amp in their Powerboost yet?? IMG_0771
Ford F-150 Anyone put a aftermarket sub and amp in their Powerboost yet?? IMG_0770
Ford F-150 Anyone put a aftermarket sub and amp in their Powerboost yet?? IMG_0774
 

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@SoundsGoodStereo

the integration specialist!
I second these guys. I have their amp rack, door kits, and custom in house wire harness to hook everything up in my non-b&o system. Guys are super knowledgeable and will answer any questions you may have. 100% recommend them.
Ford F-150 Anyone put a aftermarket sub and amp in their Powerboost yet?? IMG_7117
 

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The LC2I is not the proper solution for these trucks. From the factory, they apply an EQ on the interior speakers to remove the low bass frequencies to protect them from damage. The proper way to integrate is to use a Kicker KeyLOC (Properly Programmed) so it can analyze, restore, and convert the signal. Then you can feed that to your JL Amplifier.
I installed a DD Audio DSI-3 DSP from the head unit to the amps using your custom harness. I assumed it flattened the signal and I have tuned and time aligned the speakers to the driver with the software (graphic equalizer, crossovers, summed signal, etc). I want to know if I was mistaken that the signal wasn’t flattened or there’s a need to install something like you mentioned? Or the other option is forscan to flatten the signal. Just curious because my system sounds great, just didn’t know if I’m missing out on the full potential.
 
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Graygoose2021

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I second these guys. I have their amp rack, door kits, and custom in house wire harness to hook everything up in my non-b&o system. Guys are super knowledgeable and will answer any questions you may have. 100% recommend them.
IMG_7117.jpeg
same, love their ported enclosure!

Ford F-150 Anyone put a aftermarket sub and amp in their Powerboost yet?? 20230424_144831_resized
 

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The LC2I is not the proper solution for these trucks. From the factory, they apply an EQ on the interior speakers to remove the low bass frequencies to protect them from damage. The proper way to integrate is to use a Kicker KeyLOC (Properly Programmed) so it can analyze, restore, and convert the signal. Then you can feed that to your JL Amplifier.
Interesting. I did not know this. I think I'll look into replacing my LC2i.
 

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I installed a DD Audio DSI-3 DSP from the head unit to the amps using your custom harness. I assumed it flattened the signal and I have tuned and time aligned the speakers to the driver with the software (graphic equalizer, crossovers, summed signal, etc). I want to know if I was mistaken that the signal wasn’t flattened or there’s a need to install something like you mentioned? Or the other option is forscan to flatten the signal. Just curious because my system sounds great, just didn’t know if I’m missing out on the full potential.
The DSP can only do so much. Go in ForSCAN and turn off the EQ, then re-tune and set gains. The difference should be substantial.
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