Air compressor trips PPOB breaker

[HammaMan]

You could -- you also don't have the plug for the PB either. 240v plugs have to sideways blades for that load. One sideways blade is a 20 amp 120v plug, but 2 sideways blades (like a regular plug but they're both 90 degrees sideways is the 240v plug).

It gets a little tricky because there's some overlap as each blade size is different.

Sponsored

 

[gnikdaor]

This is a picture of the label on the compressor motor.
I think I will keep the current setup. The one thing I should do is replace the plug itself. I noticed that it has a split on one of the two “blades” of the plug. The plug is old and a little beat up, and the split is probably causing the breaker to trip, since maybe it is causing a short.

I don’t need to plug the compressor into my truck. I was just trying it to see if it worked. If I replace the plug and just keep using the outlet in the garage, it will continue to meet my needs.

Thanks everyone for the replies. I knew there are a lot of smart people on here!

 

[Gros Ventre]

An auto transformer is variable as opposed to a transformer with taps on it at specific location. But they're close...

 

[dafish]

An easy first step would be try feeding it off the 30 amp side.

Amazon.com: ACKING 30 Amp NEMA L14-30/Four 5-20R Generator Locking Cord, 4-Prong 10 Gauge Cord to Household Cable,Generator Adapter, 125/250V 30 Amp 7500 Watts UL Listed, 1.5FT : Patio, Lawn & Garden

That might get you enough surge to cover things, and as you can see it's pretty handy for getting better access to both 120V legs. Heck, I think I'm going to buy one just to have around...

 

[Eskram]

I have nothing of value to add here, other than I don't have issues with my BOSTITCH 6g pancake compressor. It runs fine on the 110v circuit and doesn't trip anything.

 

[JoeRedFly]

This is a picture of the label on the compressor motor.
I think I will keep the current setup. The one thing I should do is replace the plug itself. I noticed that it has a split on one of the two “blades” of the plug. The plug is old and a little beat up, and the split is probably causing the breaker to trip, since maybe it is causing a short.

I don’t need to plug the compressor into my truck. I was just trying it to see if it worked. If I replace the plug and just keep using the outlet in the garage, it will continue to meet my needs.

Thanks everyone for the replies. I knew there are a lot of smart people on here!

Nope, it's an inrush current issue. New plug won't help, but if worn should be replaced anyway. That adapter @dafish posted is a really good idea. It would likely give you enough headroom to run that compressor by bypassing the 120v outlet current limit. I have one myself.

 

[cjm83]

Its probably been covered somewhere in here but i agree with one of the first initial responses.. the initial load of the compressor sounds like the culprit. Its a reactive load opposed to a resistive load..

Check this youtube video about the PPOB.. Its a little lengthy but this guy explains the system excellently. And he talks about reactive loads vs resistive loads.

Ultimate Guide to Ford F-150 Pro Power Onboard! (How to Power Your Home During an Outage)

 

[gnikdaor]

An easy first step would be try feeding it off the 30 amp side.

Amazon.com: ACKING 30 Amp NEMA L14-30/Four 5-20R Generator Locking Cord, 4-Prong 10 Gauge Cord to Household Cable,Generator Adapter, 125/250V 30 Amp 7500 Watts UL Listed, 1.5FT : Patio, Lawn & Garden

That might get you enough surge to cover things, and as you can see it's pretty handy for getting better access to both 120V legs. Heck, I think I'm going to buy one just to have around...

Thanks for the link, I will be buying one. It will be handy to have, not only for the compressor, but for anything else I might want to run that has a high initial surge.

 

[gnikdaor]

Its probably been covered somewhere in here but i agree with one of the first initial responses.. the initial load of the compressor sounds like the culprit. Its a reactive load opposed to a resistive load..

Check this youtube video about the PPOB.. Its a little lengthy but this guy explains the system excellently. And he talks about reactive loads vs resistive loads.

Ultimate Guide to Ford F-150 Pro Power Onboard! (How to Power Your Home During an Outage)

Thanks, I will check it out. I have much to learn on how to get the most out of the 7.2 kw PPOB.

 

[Vater]

An electric motor has a starting surge of current. Commonly it is on the order of 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 times the running current. So what you're seeing is that the PPOB circuitry detects that surge and trips the breaker. Would be nice if Ford had planned for this... I have my house setup to be run by the PPOB (7.2kW). It operates fine except that the Hotwater heater (4,400 watts) trips the PPOB circuitry. Other smaller loads on the order of 1,000 watts or so don't cause a problem.

Actually, the inrush current on an induction motor is 5 to 7 times load current, which may be mitigated some by a start capacitor, but would still be at least 4 per unit inrush without and electronic soft start.

 

[Gros Ventre]

My experience on propulsion plants is 1 and a half to 2 and a half times run current. The capacitor is there primarily to provide a rotating flux for starting so the rotor will see a rotating field.

 

[McGuyver]

So does it start when the tank is empty but trips when it tries to restart when the tank is at the low pressure cut in? If so you could try lowering the low pressure cut in or just manually bleed the tank down before restarting. A lower starting pressure will have a lower in rush current.

 

[BLoflin]

One thing that is sometimes missed, and MIGHT work for you is to get a L14-30P to whatever 120V plug your compressor needs for less than $20. Pretty cheap to try (vs a new compressor or a SoftStart).

The 120V standard outlets in the PPOB are 2400W (i.e. 20A x 120V).

If you use a 120V side of the 4 blade 240/120V PPOB connection you get 3600W (i.e. 30A x 120V).

Something like: https://a.co/d/1XUJvYr

Might be enough to prevent the trip.

 

[HammaMan]

To trip a main panel breaker requires between 33 and 45 amps of current. The PB will provide exactly 32 amps and not a 10th of an amp more. Connecting this compressor through a pigtail will not change the outcome.

 

[BLoflin]

To trip a main panel breaker requires between 33 and 45 amps of current. The PB will provide exactly 32 amps and not a 10th of an amp more. Connecting this compressor through a pigtail will not change the outcome.

Probably so, but w/o a scope we don't know the height and duration of the starting current spike on this old compressor. For under $20 I'd try the adapter plug. Steady state current draw when running is probably under 15A, so it might handle a 2.1X spike.

I would also, do any maintenance on the old compressor to lower the starting torque needed (i.e. grease any accessible bearings, etc.) and finally if able to set tank requested pressure to 0 at start up... possibly, could help). Also, don't think it would matter, but I wouldn't bother going into gen mode, etc., just start the F150 and throw the on switch on the compressor.

Anyway, that is all the things I would try before buying a new compressor.

But of course, if he's willing to rewire the compressor for 240V, that would be better answer.

Sponsored