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2021 roush f150 48000 miles blown motor

Josh9830

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I own a ford f150 2021 roush stage 3 directly built by them . I use it forwork and thats it occasionally jumping on it with other tradesman but its Chicago you dont have the space. I have the mustang for fun. Went up to mt bohemia to snowboard for the holiday weekend ended up losing all engine pressure on the way back home in Houghton Michigan. Immediately pulled over and got it towed of course ford tows it to the copper county ford dealer. Waited an entire week including missing new years with my family because Chicago was 8 hours and car rental was a whole other situation. long story short they call me Friday stating there's a hole in the block and it's going to cost 15 k. It's not the price I'm worried about it's the fact that no pictures were taken. They didn't take it apart to tell me if the supercharger caused one of the bearings to blow through nothing just there's a whole and it's 15000 to fix at that points I'd much rather go the whole 9 and build this thing with a new motor. What are my options and it's currently stuck up in Houghton Michigan any recommendations for performance shops in understand the towing cost isn't cheap but fair /

Ford F-150 2021 roush f150  48000 miles blown motor 20241213_170307
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FaaWrenchBndr

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Don’t have a friend with a truck you can borrow? Remove driveshaft and use U-Haul dolly to get it back home.

Really no point in disassembling the engine if it had a hole on the block. A connecting rod let loose. That’s either an oil issue or a water or snow ingestion that hydrolocked the cylinder. Faint chance that the valvetrain had an issue, valves hit pistons and led to the broken rod.
 
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Josh9830

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They're so far the Upper peninsula is 7 hors from Detroit minimum
 

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When you lost oil pressure was the engine still running? When you sent the rod out the side of the block that very well could have set off your oil pressure light. Trying to figure out what happened first the oil light or the rod going out the block?

The factory cats on automobiles are not meant for boosted applications. I have seen several cases where overtime the cats will overheat and melt, plug up and eventually destroy the engine. I have seen it on Mustangs, f-150s, and even ZL1 Camaros with the LT4 engines. While you can make great power on these factory catalytic converters, they are highly restrictive and overtime they generate catalyst overtemp conditions. When they plug up they create tons of back pressure and heat.

If I were you, I would find a good performance shop and have them build you a motor. Did they break down your factory long block, I wonder if the heads are salvageable? No doubt you're going to need a bottom end but you might get lucky and your heads might be able to be reused.

Hopefully the carnage wasn't too bad and your blower is still good. When engines let go, they will often send shrapnel back through the intake and it will ruin the rotors on the blower. Again, a good shop will break everything down and inspect it for you. Maybe the dealer you took it to did break everything down but it sounds like they just looked at it and gave you a bill for a new long block.
 
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Josh9830

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yea at that point I would just wanna put a new either 5.0 or something that is nicer if someones wilklling to do it i looked at the raptor r crate but dont know if it would fit it be looking to save the blower its was fully done by roush but after warranty they want nothing to do with you. Auto moxie in iorn mountain seems like the most legit guy I've spoke to
 

TheGoatman

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if you’re keeping the blower on, there’s no way I’d put another 5.0 in there that hasn’t been setup for boost.

I get a crate yote can handle a ton of boost but it doesn’t compare to one specd for boost
 
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Josh9830

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Any part number for it that goes into the f150
 

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Still under powertrain warranty. Make ford replace the engine. If they say no, make them prove the supercharger caused the damage.
 

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Josh9830

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Still under powertrain warranty. Make ford replace the engine. If they say no, make them prove the supercharger caused the damage.
Nah fine line of roush eliminates it very fine line
 

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Can you post up some more details on when the engine blew:
- Were you running 93 octane
-were you cruising when it let go or was it under load ( wide open throttle, climbing a hill?)
- Any engine lights or previous engine lights

There are plenty of shops out there that will build you a motor that will be cheaper than going through Ford. However, you seem very interested in sticking with Ford so here is a link to their supercharged aluminator motor. The main differences in this engine is it has forged internals and a lower compression ratio for boost. You can definitely find it cheaper than here just posting for informational purposes. It's important to note at the same boost levels you will lose horsepower with this engine due to the lower compression.

https://www.ford.com/product/50l-ge...p.ds&msclkid=b47686d970871b432edce1a3f8fe114d

As I stated earlier, you need to figure out if your heads are reusable and the condition of your blower. If the heads are fine and your blower is in good condition that will save you a considerable amount of money.

Also, like I said earlier I would strongly consider a performance shop doing the work versus a dealership. While the main focus is finding a new engine right now, you also need to fully understand why this happened in the first place...... so it doesn't happen again.
 
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Josh9830

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8.5 hours at best.
Can you post up some more details on when the engine blew:
- Were you running 93 octane
-were you cruising when it let go or was it under load ( wide open throttle, climbing a hill?)
- Any engine lights or previous engine lights

There are plenty of shops out there that will build you a motor that will be cheaper than going through Ford. However, you seem very interested in sticking with Ford so here is a link to their supercharged aluminator motor. The main differences in this engine is it has forged internals and a lower compression ratio for boost. You can definitely find it cheaper than here just posting for informational purposes. It's important to note at the same boost levels you will lose horsepower with this engine due to the lower compression.

https://www.ford.com/product/50l-gen-4-aluminator-sc-crate-engine-p2868577589?fmccmp=marketplace-gs-cta-accessories&searchid=580479536|1300723417026453|pla-4584894777427683&fcid=pse_580479536_bing&s_kwcid=AL!2519!10!81295270208786!4584894777427683&ef_id=b47686d970871b432edce1a3f8fe114d:G:s&gclid=b47686d970871b432edce1a3f8fe114d&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=b47686d970871b432edce1a3f8fe114d

As I stated earlier, you need to figure out if your heads are reusable and the condition of your blower. If the heads are fine and your blower is in good condition that will save you a considerable amount of money.

Also, like I said earlier I would strongly consider a performance shop doing the work versus a dealership. While the main focus is finding a new engine right now, you also need to fully understand why this happened in the first place...... so it doesn't happen again.
appreciated I'm just an electrician that likes cars but do note not to go to roush with my mustang
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