Rear Blocks Removed 2.0

[JCsTruck]

Hi all. I know this topic has been beat to death here but I took what I learned here from everyone posting their experiences and did some things that I haven't seen done anywhere else that might help someone fine tune this modification. My truck is a 2024 SuperCab and the rake it had was a lot. Removing the rear blocks lowers the rear at the fender 1-1/4” and lowers the tailgate 1-3/4”. Lowering the tailgate this much helps with getting in and out of the bed and loading and unloading. So here it goes.

First thing I wanted to do was to take some measurements to set a baseline on where the axle is located relative to the frame. I also took measurements at the wheel wells front to back and side to side and with the tailgate down. I did this on flat level ground inside my garage.

I used my tape measure to measure from the front spring mount to the front of the axle tube and wrote these measurements down.

Next I knew that many people had trouble realigning the two pins in the spring perch with the axle mount holes on the axle mount so I used a strap to hold the axle in position while I removed the block so it wouldn’t move and it worked out very well. One side I didn't use this strap and the other side I did and with the strap holding the axle in position the pins dropped right in but the other side where I didn't do this I had to fight it a little to get the holes to line up with the pins in the axle mount holes.

Here is a picture of the spring with the axle block installed.

I took this opportunity to treat some of the rust and paint it.

Ford claims the U-bolts are a one time use piece of hardware and even if you take the chance and get away with reusing the 4x4 U-bolts they end up sticking down another 1-1/4” and there is barely enough thread left on them to re-tighten them back up. I elected to purchase new shorter 2WD U-bolts, new nuts, and new 2WD axle stops to keep everything looking factory and to retain stock suspension travel too.

Here are some comparison photos of the 4x4 U-bolts and axle stops next to the new 2WD versions I installed after removing the blocks.

The bolt that holds the axle bump stop in place is a 14mm bolt. I used silicone grease to coat the threads so they wouldn’t rust just in case I wanted to restore this back to 4x4 spec someday.

In case anyone wants to know the 4x4 1-1/4” cast iron rear spring blocks weigh in at just over 6.5 lbs so that is 6.5 lbs of unsprung weight removed. ?

I did run into one issue which was the alignment pins for the 2WD axle stops where different than the 4x4 axle stops where one pin lined up with the hole in the frame and one was off. I just removed the offending pin and coated it with silicone grease to keep corrosion from getting an easy place to start. One pin goes left/right and one goes up/down on the 4x2 bump stop but on the original 4x4 bump stop they are both punched out in the same direction.. ??‍

I removed the pin that didn't line up with linemen pliers by bending it back and forth until it snapped off.

I installed silicone grease as a corrosion prevention measure over any openings or sharp edges where corrosion often starts.

I didn't get any good before pictures but those are available on this forum from other members. Here is my dirty truck after with the rear blocks removed.

I noticed that the ride seems slightly improved and I don't feel like I am looking down the hood as much but that is more my bias probably. The lowered tailgate height and reduced rake makes it easier to get stuff in and out of the bed and the stance looks better too.

Lastly, I took the opportunity to get the measurements from axle to frame more square than they originally were. You can see this in the picture of my measurements where it says before and after. I wanted to make sure the axle was as close to 90-degrees to the centerline of the truck as possible. I used that strap with the U-bolts loose and also kicking the tires in the direction I needed it to go to make those minor adjustments because the pins in the spring perch are smaller than the holes in the axle mount so they allow for some adjustment before you tighten down the bolts. I was able to get it within 1/16” vs the 5/16” it was before.

Part number for the U-bolt nuts that I used is Part No - W520215-S440.
Part number for the 2WD U-bolts is Part No - ML3Z-5705-A.
Part number for the 2WD bump stops is. Part No - ML3Z-4730-A.

Torque the 21 mm U-bolt nuts in stages in a cross pattern to:

30 ft/lbs
60 ft/lbs
90 ft/lbs
111 ft/lbs

Thats it, enjoy.

Sponsored

 

[NH-RCSB]

Hi all. I know this topic has been beat to death here but I took what I learned here from everyone posting their experiences and did some things that I haven't seen done anywhere else that might help someone fine tune this modification. My truck is a 2024 SuperCab and the rake it had was a lot. Removing the rear blocks lowers the rear at the fender 1-1/4” and lowers the tailgate 1-3/4”. Lowering the tailgate this much helps with getting in and out of the bed and loading and unloading. So here it goes.

First thing I wanted to do was to take some measurements to set a baseline on where the axle is located relative to the frame. I also took measurements at the wheel wells front to back and side to side and with the tailgate down. I did this on flat level ground inside my garage.

I used my tape measure to measure from the front spring mount to the front of the axle tube and wrote these measurements down.

Next I knew that many people had trouble realigning the two pins in the spring perch with the axle mount holes on the axle mount so I used a strap to hold the axle in position while I removed the block so it wouldn’t move and it worked out very well. One side I didn't use this strap and the other side I did and with the strap holding the axle in position the pins dropped right in but the other side where I didn't do this I had to fight it a little to get the holes to line up with the pins in the axle mount holes.

Here is a picture of the spring with the axle block installed.

I took this opportunity to treat some of the rust and paint it.

Ford claims the U-bolts are a one time use piece of hardware and even if you take the chance and get away with reusing the 4x4 U-bolts they end up sticking down another 1-1/4” and there is barely enough thread left on them to re-tighten them back up. I elected to purchase new shorter 2WD U-bolts, new nuts, and new 2WD axle stops to keep everything looking factory and to retain stock suspension travel too.

Here are some comparison photos of the 4x4 U-bolts and axle stops next to the new 2WD versions I installed after removing the blocks.

The bolt that holds the axle bump stop in place is a 14mm bolt. I used silicone grease to coat the threads so they wouldn’t rust just in case I wanted to restore this back to 4x4 spec someday.

In case anyone wants to know the 4x4 1-1/4” cast iron rear spring blocks weigh in at just over 6.5 lbs so that is 6.5 lbs of unsprung weight removed. ?

I did run into one issue which was the alignment pins for the 2WD axle stops where different than the 4x4 axle stops where one pin lined up with the hole in the frame and one was off. I just removed the offending pin and coated it with silicone grease to keep corrosion from getting an easy place to start. One pin goes left/right and one goes up/down on the 4x2 bump stop but on the original 4x4 bump stop they are both punched out in the same direction.. ??‍

I removed the pin that didn't line up with linemen pliers by bending it back and forth until it snapped off.

I installed silicone grease as a corrosion prevention measure over any openings or sharp edges where corrosion often starts.

I didn't get any good before pictures but those are available on this forum from other members. Here is my dirty truck after with the rear blocks removed.

I noticed that the ride seems slightly improved and I don't feel like I am looking down the hood as much but that is more my bias probably. The lowered tailgate height and reduced rake makes it easier to get stuff in and out of the bed and the stance looks better too.

Lastly, I took the opportunity to get the measurements from axle to frame more square than they originally were. You can see this in the picture of my measurements where it says before and after. I wanted to make sure the axle was as close to 90-degrees to the centerline of the truck as possible. I used that strap with the U-bolts loose and also kicking the tires in the direction I needed it to go to make those minor adjustments because the pins in the spring perch are smaller than the holes in the axle mount so they allow for some adjustment before you tighten down the bolts. I was able to get it within 1/16” vs the 5/16” it was before.

Part number for the U-bolt nuts that I used is Part No - W520215-S440.
Part number for the 2WD U-bolts is Part No - ML3Z-5705-A.
Part number for the 2WD bump stops is. Part No - ML3Z-4730-A.

Torque the 21 mm U-bolt nuts in stages in a cross pattern to:

30 ft/lbs
60 ft/lbs
90 ft/lbs
111 ft/lbs

Thats it, enjoy.

Nice job with the write up. I pick up my XL, RCSB, 4x4 tomorrow AM. This is on my weekend to do list.
Thanks.

 

[JCsTruck]

Nice job with the write up. I pick up my XL, RCSB, 4x4 tomorrow AM. This is on my weekend to do list.
Thanks.

That’s pretty exciting and thank you. Let me know how it goes and let me know if you need any advice.

 

[WhiteLightningnshitshadow]

Hi all. I know this topic has been beat to death here but I took what I learned here from everyone posting their experiences and did some things that I haven't seen done anywhere else that might help someone fine tune this modification. My truck is a 2024 SuperCab and the rake it had was a lot. Removing the rear blocks lowers the rear at the fender 1-1/4” and lowers the tailgate 1-3/4”. Lowering the tailgate this much helps with getting in and out of the bed and loading and unloading. So here it goes.

First thing I wanted to do was to take some measurements to set a baseline on where the axle is located relative to the frame. I also took measurements at the wheel wells front to back and side to side and with the tailgate down. I did this on flat level ground inside my garage.

I used my tape measure to measure from the front spring mount to the front of the axle tube and wrote these measurements down.

Next I knew that many people had trouble realigning the two pins in the spring perch with the axle mount holes on the axle mount so I used a strap to hold the axle in position while I removed the block so it wouldn’t move and it worked out very well. One side I didn't use this strap and the other side I did and with the strap holding the axle in position the pins dropped right in but the other side where I didn't do this I had to fight it a little to get the holes to line up with the pins in the axle mount holes.

Here is a picture of the spring with the axle block installed.

I took this opportunity to treat some of the rust and paint it.

Ford claims the U-bolts are a one time use piece of hardware and even if you take the chance and get away with reusing the 4x4 U-bolts they end up sticking down another 1-1/4” and there is barely enough thread left on them to re-tighten them back up. I elected to purchase new shorter 2WD U-bolts, new nuts, and new 2WD axle stops to keep everything looking factory and to retain stock suspension travel too.

Here are some comparison photos of the 4x4 U-bolts and axle stops next to the new 2WD versions I installed after removing the blocks.

The bolt that holds the axle bump stop in place is a 14mm bolt. I used silicone grease to coat the threads so they wouldn’t rust just in case I wanted to restore this back to 4x4 spec someday.

In case anyone wants to know the 4x4 1-1/4” cast iron rear spring blocks weigh in at just over 6.5 lbs so that is 6.5 lbs of unsprung weight removed. ?

I did run into one issue which was the alignment pins for the 2WD axle stops where different than the 4x4 axle stops where one pin lined up with the hole in the frame and one was off. I just removed the offending pin and coated it with silicone grease to keep corrosion from getting an easy place to start. One pin goes left/right and one goes up/down on the 4x2 bump stop but on the original 4x4 bump stop they are both punched out in the same direction.. ??‍

I removed the pin that didn't line up with linemen pliers by bending it back and forth until it snapped off.

I installed silicone grease as a corrosion prevention measure over any openings or sharp edges where corrosion often starts.

I didn't get any good before pictures but those are available on this forum from other members. Here is my dirty truck after with the rear blocks removed.

I noticed that the ride seems slightly improved and I don't feel like I am looking down the hood as much but that is more my bias probably. The lowered tailgate height and reduced rake makes it easier to get stuff in and out of the bed and the stance looks better too.

Lastly, I took the opportunity to get the measurements from axle to frame more square than they originally were. You can see this in the picture of my measurements where it says before and after. I wanted to make sure the axle was as close to 90-degrees to the centerline of the truck as possible. I used that strap with the U-bolts loose and also kicking the tires in the direction I needed it to go to make those minor adjustments because the pins in the spring perch are smaller than the holes in the axle mount so they allow for some adjustment before you tighten down the bolts. I was able to get it within 1/16” vs the 5/16” it was before.

Part number for the U-bolt nuts that I used is Part No - W520215-S440.
Part number for the 2WD U-bolts is Part No - ML3Z-5705-A.
Part number for the 2WD bump stops is. Part No - ML3Z-4730-A.

Torque the 21 mm U-bolt nuts in stages in a cross pattern to:

30 ft/lbs
60 ft/lbs
90 ft/lbs
111 ft/lbs

Thats it, enjoy.

Yes, the ride is actually pretty drastically changed for the better. Seemingly with less roll in turns and SIGNIFICANTLY reduced brake dive. That said, I put my blocks back before having some dealer work done to diagnose a vibration between 50-60 which still isnt solved. Ill remove them once I move to AZ in a month. After that, Ill be asking about caring for this mostly good but cripplingly crappily assembled unionbarf in 115 degree heat.

 

[INADAZE]

Nice work! And love the detailed write up. I'm sure it'll help someone in the future.

 

[mredwin25]

One of the best write ups I’ve seen in any forum, good job and it looks great

 

[Bryan Simon]

Nice write up
I did the same, but also shackles.
Just enough weight transfer to smooth out the ride, lower tailgate height, no longer going downhill all the time and console lid stays up.
I think the rake on these are a bit excessive.
Most all of my square body chevys were pretty much level 2 and 4 wheel drive.
My 98 chev is pretty much dead level.

 

[Dakar09]

Great write up...and good idea with the straps! I'll try that if I need to put the block back in at aome point.

 

[honda250xtitan]

Yes, the ride is actually pretty drastically changed for the better. Seemingly with less roll in turns and SIGNIFICANTLY reduced brake dive. That said, I put my blocks back before having some dealer work done to diagnose a vibration between 50-60 which still isnt solved. Ill remove them once I move to AZ in a month. After that, Ill be asking about caring for this mostly good but cripplingly crappily assembled unionbarf in 115 degree heat.

if thats where youre moving to in az, it wont be 115 there. just a chilly 104.

Nice write up OP. Something I noticed with re aligning the pins when you lower the body back onto the axle tube, the floor jack raises and lowers the truck in an arc AND/OR the jack will creep as you raise it. if you can, have the jack directly behind the truck itll help keep things lined up but it's still a fight getting the pins to drop right back in. a dab of grease can help. or like you did, the strap. I'm too dumb and stubborn to do that though.

honestly, after doing it to a couple trucks, a helper to wiggle the tires as you're lowering the jack is the easiest method. Wife unit with a seltzer or ten is MVP at those projects...for extra spice, have her handle the jack and you can stick your head in the wheel well as she's lowering it all lmao.

 

[TexasTruck]

Thats it, enjoy.

Excellent write up! I for one appreciate all the details!

 

[WhiteLightningnshitshadow]

if thats where youre moving to in az, it wont be 115 there. just a chilly 104.

Nice write up OP. Something I noticed with re aligning the pins when you lower the body back onto the axle tube, the floor jack raises and lowers the truck in an arc AND/OR the jack will creep as you raise it. if you can, have the jack directly behind the truck itll help keep things lined up but it's still a fight getting the pins to drop right back in. a dab of grease can help. or like you did, the strap. I'm too dumb and stubborn to do that though.

honestly, after doing it to a couple trucks, a helper to wiggle the tires as you're lowering the jack is the easiest method. Wife unit with a seltzer or ten is MVP at those projects...for extra spice, have her handle the jack and you can stick your head in the wheel well as she's lowering it all lmao.

Thats actually Beuna Vista CO. Ill be around Peoria looking for good shooting and camping spots.

 

[Larrymoe]

In lieu of straps, if your pins don't realign when you lower the spring- if you gently rock the tire back and forth, it will realign itself.

 

[JumboJVT]

My appologies if I missed it, but did you re-use the stock shocks? Everything I've read says the 2WD shock are some 3/4" shorter. Do we know that at full bumpstop squish that the 4WD shocks don't bottom first? Plan to do this when/if my 157 arrives. Thanks.

 

[Dakar09]

I re-used mine and have had no issues at all. No need to get 2wd shocks. If I plan to do some heavy towing at some point and decide to put the blocks back in, I don't want to have to swap the shocks, as well.

 

[Dakar09]

Nice write up
I did the same, but also shackles.
Just enough weight transfer to smooth out the ride, lower tailgate height, no longer going downhill all the time and console lid stays up.
I think the rake on these are a bit excessive.
Most all of my square body chevys were pretty much level 2 and 4 wheel drive.
My 98 chev is pretty much dead level.

I noticed the lack of rake in Ram and GMC pickups around here, too. I have a theory why Ford puts their F150 rumps so high up...

My 2005 4x4 XLT (no tow pckge) didn't have this extreme rake. I never towed with it, but I did move a lot of stone and landscaping materials with it. She would sag quite a bit.

My 2011 FX4 Ecoboost didn't have the serious rake either but did have the tow package. I towed a rally car with it (heavy-ish old Volvo wagon) on a 24' car hauler. Even with a load leveling system, that thing pointed her eyes at the sky. The "towing" rear suspension couldn't handle serious duty at all with the factory setup.

My theory is that Ford jacks up the rear of these with those blocks in order to claim the max towing weights and not have the rear bumpers hit the ground INSTEAD of putting a real towing suspension on...because that would ruin the ride quality when the trailer wasn't attached.

I don't tow with this current rig right now but will to so in a few years when we move to TN. Blocks may go back in then.

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