I've reached out to my mObridge contact to confirm. I spent months working with them to debug the 12-channel Pro functionality as they said I was their first install to use all 12 channels.
Great write up I have been following from afar. Just wondering on you last post are you saying that bridge is or isn’t coming out with another amp specifically for the B&O unleashed? Just trying to understand if it’s your contacts understanding that there is something more coming other than the 8.1.q that’s currently available?
It sounds like maybe they are, he asked that I beta test it when they do but I didn't get a timeline. It would be a nice option because the work required in what I did isn't trivial.
First off, thanks for all of this information. I am nearly finished with the wiring on my version with the MOBridge. I had a question regarding your wiring table. In the speaker diagram you do not show the center channel being used, but it shows up in the table. Are you actually utilizing the center channel and are you bridging channels 1 and 2 on the AC-4.300? Thanks again!The headrests are wired together e.g. Driver's left to Passenger's left, Driver's right to Passenger's right.
You're right, I didn't hookup the center as I was limited by the 12 channels of DSP and available Amp channels. I could steal a DSP lime off the Toslink adapter (running the Sub mono) but I need to find somewhere to hide another Amp. I hear that mObridge is working on a drop in Unleashed Amp replacement so I'm curious to see if they'll offer up enough DSP channels to drive everything independently (16-ch if you don't bi-amp the rear doors)
I tried using the passenger side grommet, clipped the raised area exposing the hole, but could not get through easily. Fished a lead wire through it with great difficulty, but was not able to pull the huge power cable through, so I ran it through a drivers side grommet. Problem afterwards is now I have an error code P166a I think, showing a communication error with HCM, and throws a wrench on the display stating to get immediate service! UGH! Tried getting my hand up by the blower, but no room to check for any connections. I feel this will be an expensive fix if the dash will need removal to get to whatever happened. Any ideas of what could of happened! day before, my right signal flashes twice as fast, but all the signals are normally flashing. Any Ideas on how I can get to this section? As far as the feedthrough on that grommet, what is the resistance on the firewall in the cab stopping any cable feedthrough?
To get through the passenger side I avoided the nipple entirely. I went just to the passenger side of it after removing the BCMC (not really optional removing it, wheel well liner must come out, if you don't have a leveling kit, might need to jack up to lower the wheel out of there). I then pulled the entire grommet into the engine bay after unplugging C265 to see both sides of it and the wires (and make the cuts easy). Then I cut a star pattern in it with a fresh breakable razer knife (3 cuts crisscrossing like a 6 piece pizza). Once I was able to shove my little finger through it, I shoved a fiberglass pull rod into the cab, put down an 8 gallon trash bag on the carpet, attached my 2ga welding cable (what I used for power wire due to heavy insulation) and this is the KEY to pulling through grommets, lubed it with WD40 (thus the trash bag) -- doesn't take a lot, carefully sprayed it (more like drizzled it) on about 18" of it and lubed it with the hand, it pulled through like a hot knife through butter. WD40 is the secret reducing effort by 95%. Shoved the grommet back into the firewall (not easy, not hard) and buttoned it up.
