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B&O Unleashed finally fixed for $329?

Popplemer

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I just pulled the trigger on the Mobridge DSP amp which will repower everything, at least for me with a 8 speaker regular B&O. I'm curious how much difference that will make with just the stock speakers, but then that will probably lead me down the rabbit hole of new speakers all around then...
Please keep us updated on this. This was my next move but have never heard any reviews.
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To be clear your front speakers and tweeters are still factory? Did you disconnect the center speaker?

I have the Keyloc with harness from SGS for adding my powered sub just haven’t gotten around to doing it yet.
 
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JJSnell

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To be clear your front speakers and tweeters are still factory? Did you disconnect the center speaker?

I have the Keyloc with harness from SGS for adding my powered sub just haven’t gotten around to doing it yet.
If your question was to me, I have replaced all my door speakers with JL\Pioneer.
Not all speakers are factory amped from the B&O amp. And this in lies the problem with the imbalance of the sound in the cab. You have multiple amplified speakers in the front of the cab and only the subwoofer in the back of the cab is amplified.
No I did not remove the center speaker. As a matter of fact I upgraded it.
 

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Please keep us updated on this. This was my next move but have never heard any reviews.
Will do, but have heard good things from the little I've heard thus far. I'll be a guinea pig for their new F150 plug and play harness.
 

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Wonderful thread! Great information. Thank you

I’m new to this site, and I feel like I hit a homer finding this thread right off the bat.

Almost all of my questions were answered, except for:

1. Does this app have the “auto on “ feature?


I think that it does, but I get lost with all of the abbreviations and tech lingo.

2. I’m assuming that you ran a four or eight gauge wire back from the battery?

If that’s the case, does the amp know when to turn on and off based on the input from the speaker lead?

3. You mentioned that now that you know it works you wish you had gone with a larger amp. Which one would you recommend?

Though it does seem hard to beat 199 for the one that you have in your truck now.

Thank you
 
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JJSnell

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Wonderful thread! Great information. Thank you
I’m new to this site, and I feel like I hit a homer finding this thread right off the bat.
Almost all of my questions were answered, except for:
1. Does this app have the “auto on “ feature?
I think that it does, but I get lost with all of the abbreviations and tech lingo.
2. I’m assuming that you ran a four or eight gauge wire back from the battery?
If that’s the case, does the amp know when to turn on and off based on the input from the speaker lead?
3. You mentioned that now that you know it works you wish you had gone with a larger amp. Which one would you recommend?
Though it does seem hard to beat 199 for the one that you have in your truck now.
Thank you
First off, welcome aboard. Glad to have you here... lots of good, friendly guys here.

So for clarification, I didnt do any of the install. I have an audio guy\friend that does all our work.
1. He had to run a remote to a fuse on the passenger side to have "auto-on" work.
2. I dont know which gauge he used for power, I can look at the truck here in a bit and see if there is any details\verbiage on the wiring.
3. So the limit I am seeing now is due to gain and 4v limits. My gain is set to about 30% as my inputs are at 4v. I admit I get confused on voltage to gain to power ampliflication stuff. Its my understanding that if I had an LS2i it would allow for a higher voltage input, which would allow me to increase my gain without distortion, which I think, would allow for more volume.... (feel free to clarify if I am wrong guys).
.... my other thought is that if I went with a more powerful amp, it would increase my RMS from 75w to 100w.
I have been talking offline with @clipperqb and he is looking at a 5 channel Kenwood to power his rear doors and an aftermarket sub. He has the B&O-8 so there has been a lot of discussion between us as I am only familiar with the B&O-18.
I am REALLY thinking about a 5 Channel also, throwing 6.5" cones where the 6.5" coax are now and placing a 1"-2" tweeter higher in the rear door. (closer to ear level).
The overall design of this system is really poor. I am by NO stretch an audiophile but to have 4- non-amped speakers in the back at foot level, with highbacked seats and center console walling them off, just makes no sense. I would prefer another 6.5' sub\deep mid down by the feet and a tweeter in this area somewhere...

Ford F-150 B&O Unleashed finally fixed for $329? 1706732594934
 

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JJSnell

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IIRC that's a non B&O part. Base system only
But could still be implemented in a B&O system, couldnt it?
I just like how it looks like it fits behind the seat. If I have to move the B&O Amp\DSP, I can do that...
 

Popplemer

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But could still be implemented in a B&O system, couldnt it?
I just like how it looks like it fits behind the seat. If I have to move the B&O Amp\DSP, I can do that...
I guess the answer is would you want to? I know there's a hell of a rabbit hole you can do down with any system but for what they want for that you could begin implementing a better sub solution.
 

rugedraw

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I am REALLY thinking about a 5 Channel also, throwing 6.5" cones where the 6.5" coax are now and placing a 1"-2" tweeter higher in the rear door. (closer to ear level).
This is where I mounted mine. It made a huge difference even with the ACM still powering them in terms of the volume you hear out of the rear speakers. I do hear some distortion with high frequencies at high volume which is why I am considering doing what you did and power them with a separate amp

Ford F-150 B&O Unleashed finally fixed for $329? 20240131_172259


I've heard this set-up before and I didn't like it at all. You will be disappointed. Kicker makes good products, but this is not one of them. There are much better options out there for $600.
 
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JJSnell

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This is where I mounted mine. It made a huge difference even with the ACM still powering them in terms of the volume you hear out of the rear speakers. I do hear some distortion with high frequencies at high volume which is why I am considering doing what you did and power them with a separate amp

20240131_172259.jpg




I've heard this set-up before and I didn't like it at all. You will be disappointed. Kicker makes good products, but this is not one of them. There are much better options out there for $600.
Ok thanks good to know on both subjects. I will pass then. Sucks that empty boxes are going for $700... Im in the wrong business.. :)
 

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If your question was to me, I have replaced all my door speakers with JL\Pioneer.
Not all speakers are factory amped from the B&O amp. And this in lies the problem with the imbalance of the sound in the cab. You have multiple amplified speakers in the front of the cab and only the subwoofer in the back of the cab is amplified.
No I did not remove the center speaker. As a matter of fact I upgraded it.
I wonder how much of your improvement came from the new speakers. At $199 for the amp, I'm thinking about getting it and trying to add it myself to my completely stock B&O Unleashed.

From what I've read in this thread, there's a main power coming from under the hood, a key'd power coming from a fuse, and then just splicing the amp in before the L/R rear door speakers.
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