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PPK

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i just upgraded from an H6 to an H8. I have been studying this battery failure more than a little bit.. i do think ford is cutting off the charging at too low a voltage in too short a time. a lead acid battery needs an "absorbtion" period.. that is a period of time above nominal voltage. I watched the voltage pretty carefully on a 100 mile trip.. and i did not observe 13.2 or 13.3 volts for any period which you need to get the plates in shape.

I also think.. that stop start is really detrimental to battery life. if you notice when the engine is stopped.. the battery is about 12.1 or 12.2 volts. i think the accessories draw about 30 amps.. a big accessory is the transmission pump. while i don't know how many amps it is.. it must be quite a few. in addition a battery has only so many "starts" to deliver the high amps for the starter.

anyway.. you have to have an absorbtion phase so that you equalize all the cells. i think ford is saving a few watt-hours of charging time.. probably pennies and we are replacing $200 batteries a year or two early. imo.

its tuned for maximum mpg not maximum battery life?
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Snakebitten

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I suppose because as Snake eluded to, it can’t clutch us into neutral and coast down, and it can’t predict our next throttle need, so it waits until inaction results in up shift.
I had a previous 10r80 dialed in by Matt, with Gearhead tuning, and the so called "Sport Mode" strategy was altered to personal tastes. It was so nice and revealed to me just how tunable this transmission is.
I also have several 10r80's in the family fleet, and it's amazing how much they can vary from each other. I suspect there's enough tolerances in the various components that the factory shift table(s) values allow for those variations from one truck to another?
 

fordtruckman2003

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This might be quality at a reasonable price…

IMG_2224.png
Well, it is a legend. :)

Anything is better than undersized OEM batteries. Go as big as will fit and with decent warranty.
 

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nitrobass24

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HammaMan

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I know these are quite expensive but with 1400+CCAs in a H7 format could be worth it. Anyone have experience with these?
https://antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/automotive/ag-h7-rs/
Those prices are hilarious. That's not even $100 worth of LFP cells. Quite surprised they'd market LFP batts like that when LTO is a far better choice for the application. LFP cannot discharge when cell temps are below -4f nor charge unless temps are 32f (BMS performs heating before allowing charge, cell damage will occur below stated temps). Don't waste money on that, it's not worth it.

I'd bet their "CCA" numbers are extrapolated in equivalent kW output.
 

fordtruckman2003

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Boen

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My question is what is a bigger battery going to fix? I understand it has a larger capacity but dosnt cure the problem it just prolongs it dosnt it ?
 

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rpold150

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My question is what is a bigger battery going to fix? I understand it has a larger capacity but dosnt cure the problem it just prolongs it dosnt it ?
I asked the same question on another thread, but didn't see an answer. Even my warranty new H6 has solved the problem, for now.
 

Boen

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I went ahead and bought a new H6 battery from my dealer. I didn’t wanna screw with taking it to them but my automotive experience and understanding I feel there’s a charging system problem not the battery’s fault.
 

fordtruckman2003

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Many here think Motorcraft had bad batches of batteries. That combined with trucks waiting on chip holds which is never good for any battery. Short lifespan but some have success with newer Motorcraft batteries.

More capacity doesn't hurt at all, so why not?
 

Snakebitten

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Yes. We have near consensus that ANY new AGM is better than the OEM Motorcraft battery on many of our trucks.

Which is such a turn of events from my past. In my Ford Diesel days, most of us paid a premium at O'Reilly to get new Motorcraft batteries when it came time to replace.
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