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icemanrrc

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I’ve tried using the non-as built (easy) way to extend the time that the heated steering wheel heats. It has made zero difference. Has anyone had any luck getting this mod to work?
2023 Lariat 501A
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mrnavy2

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Forscan. 2021 xlt f150. Recently installed power fold mirrors, standard, not tow mirrors. Switch is installed I can get the Lincoln auto fold to work, but was wondering if there is a way to do Ford auto fold? Reason is, I would like to keep the puddle lights working. Haven’t seen anything that notates this workaround.
Thanks for any help.
So you just added the Switch in the Door and it worked?
Thanks Steve
 
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Steve, no. That would be cool. I only see the current way is to forscan Lincoln auto fold which deletes the lights. I did have to build jumper wires between the DDM/PDM and mirrors. It will work then , just sans lights.
 

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I’ve tried using the non-as built (easy) way to extend the time that the heated steering wheel heats. It has made zero difference. Has anyone had any luck getting this mod to work?
2023 Lariat 501A
What did you try changing and where?
 

DK4

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I’ve tried using the non-as built (easy) way to extend the time that the heated steering wheel heats. It has made zero difference. Has anyone had any luck getting this mod to work?
2023 Lariat 501A
I’ve had 3 different F150’s with heated wheels that I’ve tried just about everything on to get them be warmer and/or stay warm longer.

The changes never really do seem to ever change anything. A couple times I thought I could tell a difference but it was marginal at best. Like the wheel has so many safeties built into it, it just does its own thing no matter what I dunno.

I’d love to have mine stay warm longer.
 

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Anyone updated the VDM values for wheel/tire mass or unsprung wheel mass? I added larger tires to my factory wheels and curious if its worth updating these for a truck without CCD?
 

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I edited mine but not for the reason you stated. Rather I was attempting to get the CCD damping strategy to behave in Normal mode to be closer to what Ford has it set to in Sport mode.
I'd love to just drive in Sport mode permanently since I like EVERYTHING about it better. But Ford also, in their infinite wisdom, decided that if I chose Sport mode I didn't want my Powerboost to be a Hybrid. ??

Anyways, I increased the factory Asbuilt values by 20% and added RAS to the rear leafpack. Also added a rear sway bar.
Pretty happy with the effort to dial it in for empty/lightly loaded payload ride.

I'll see if I can dig up the Forscan edit record for you.

By the way, if you want to experience what the highest CCD damping feels like, just unplug the driver's side rear shock. Ford has it programmed to default to max damping if one of four shocks fault. (the opposite of the Raptor, which faults to softest damping)

Go for a ride with one unplugged. At least you will then KNOW what the full range feels like since Normal mode is surely on the soft side of the available range.
 

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I edited mine but not for the reason you stated. Rather I was attempting to get the CCD damping strategy to behave in Normal mode to be closer to what Ford has it set to in Sport mode.
I'd love to just drive in Sport mode permanently since I like EVERYTHING about it better. But Ford also, in their infinite wisdom, decided that if I chose Sport mode I didn't want my Powerboost to be a Hybrid. ??

Anyways, I increased the factory Asbuilt values by 20% and added RAS to the rear leafpack. Also added a rear sway bar.
Pretty happy with the effort to dial it in for empty/lightly loaded payload ride.

I'll see if I can dig up the Forscan edit record for you.

By the way, if you want to experience what the highest CCD damping feels like, just unplug the driver's side rear shock. Ford has it programmed to default to max damping if one of four shocks fault. (the opposite of the Raptor, which faults to softest damping)

Go for a ride with one unplugged. At least you will then KNOW what the full range feels like since Normal mode is surely on the soft side of the available range.

I’m really mad at myself for purchasing a new truck with the CCD. I may haveto pick your brain about this. I do have forscan and a mongoose cable, and would really like to improve my ride. I have RAS in the rear, but would like to level the front or something, and I hate how boat-ish it is on the highway. Seems like the front end just floats around like an 80s Cadillac!
 

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I’ve had 3 different F150’s with heated wheels that I’ve tried just about everything on to get them be warmer and/or stay warm longer.

The changes never really do seem to ever change anything. A couple times I thought I could tell a difference but it was marginal at best. Like the wheel has so many safeties built into it, it just does its own thing no matter what I dunno.

I’d love to have mine stay warm longer.
Explains why my wheel isn't warm. I've noticed a few times light is on dash but steering wheel is not heating. Didn't know it had a timer. I usually turn it off when I get in anyway but sometimes I'll forget.
 

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Forscan. 2021 xlt f150. Recently installed power fold mirrors, standard, not tow mirrors. Switch is installed I can get the Lincoln auto fold to work, but was wondering if there is a way to do Ford auto fold? Reason is, I would like to keep the puddle lights working. Haven’t seen anything that notates this workaround.
Thanks for any help.
If you can remind me around 6:30pm eastern time today, I'd be happy to screen shot the relevant as built values for you. I've got factory power fold mirrors.
 

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nitrobass24

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I edited mine but not for the reason you stated. Rather I was attempting to get the CCD damping strategy to behave in Normal mode to be closer to what Ford has it set to in Sport mode.
I'd love to just drive in Sport mode permanently since I like EVERYTHING about it better. But Ford also, in their infinite wisdom, decided that if I chose Sport mode I didn't want my Powerboost to be a Hybrid. ??

Anyways, I increased the factory Asbuilt values by 20% and added RAS to the rear leafpack. Also added a rear sway bar.
Pretty happy with the effort to dial it in for empty/lightly loaded payload ride.

I'll see if I can dig up the Forscan edit record for you.
Yea I dont have CCD on my truck unfortunately. Did you find that modifying those values cause the truck to perform any differently outside of damping control?

I do agree, I dont understand why I cant be in Sport and still have hybrid at the same time.
 

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I’m really mad at myself for purchasing a new truck with the CCD. I may haveto pick your brain about this. I do have forscan and a mongoose cable, and would really like to improve my ride. I have RAS in the rear, but would like to level the front or something, and I hate how boat-ish it is on the highway. Seems like the front end just floats around like an 80s Cadillac!
I really do suggest just unplugging the driver's side rear shock and go see how you enjoy the ride.
And remind yourself that all you've done is manually adjusted the damping on an adjustable damper.

You might think it's too much damping? (I doubt it though. Even at max it's really not that firm. But definitely firmer than the factory "Buick" curve)

Or you might want even more damping. But if that's the case you weren't going to be happy with any F150 factory dampers. That's why sometimes we fork out for the good stuff. The 2.5 products. Especially the adjustable kit.

Remember, CCD was a dirt cheap option for what it is. I personally think the fail isn't the hardware, but rather that silly conservative damping map they coded.
 

mdomicolo

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I really do suggest just unplugging the driver's side rear shock and go see how you enjoy the ride.
And remind yourself that all you've done is manually adjusted the damping on an adjustable damper.

You might think it's too much damping? (I doubt it though. Even at max it's really not that firm. But definitely firmer than the factory "Buick" curve)

Or you might want even more damping. But if that's the case you weren't going to be happy with any F150 factory dampers. That's why sometimes we fork out for the good stuff. The 2.5 products. Especially the adjustable kit.

Remember, CCD was a dirt cheap option for what it is. I personally think the fail isn't the hardware, but rather that silly conservative damping map they coded.

Is there a way to turn off the CCD system in forscan or something so I can run an aftermarket suspension?

Btw: I did run the “ford performance fox” full system in my 2018, and I must say it rode terrible. I was so harsh it didn’t feel like I even had a suspension under me. Not sure if it’s because I had a 2.7L and there wasn’t enough engine weight on the front end or what.. but they don’t have different spring rates for different engines. It was just one ford performance part #
 

Spindrive

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Quick question; (I’ve looked but don’t know what to query)

everytime I start my truck, or get in and hit the start button into accy mode.

it goes “duhhh duhhh duhhh” in a high pitch chime noise.

Is there a way to shut off in forscan?
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