Battery tender

[Davexxxx]

First off, I found this. Much heavier gauge wire. Insignificant cost difference. Would 3' be enough?

https://www.amazon.com/Goupchn-Conn...9ZDLZY5G/ref=psdc_15720011_t3_B000NCOKZQ?th=1

I know I have a lot to learn and don't have my truck yet to check for myself but as I understand it, just being near the truck with the fob, or touching the doors, will cause a certain amount of waking, therefore battery drain.

How far does the fob have to be, to be out of range?

If you popped the hood, then turned everything off and moved the fob far enough away, couldn't you check phantom draw with an amp clamp on the cables?

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[Snakebitten]

Any idea what #3 is?
At the moment, I have the ring terminals for a Battery Tender

#3 is the battery post clamp for the battery cable. It's the one place that you wouldn't want to connect your ring terminal to if you want the Battery Management System to account for the charging current you are adding.
You would still be charging the battery, of course, but the current wouldn't have been accounted for in the BMS logic.

 

[PaulGrun]

#3 is the battery post clamp for the battery cable. It's the one place that you wouldn't want to connect your ring terminal to if you want the Battery Management System to account for the charging current you are adding.
You would still be charging the battery, of course, but the current wouldn't have been accounted for in the BMS logic.

Well that's weird - there are two #3s in the diagram! the one I'm asking about is the one associated with the positive side.
For the negative side I've attached the ring terminal to #1 in the diagram for exactly the reason you mentioned. but with all the talk about the Hall Effect sensor on the negative side, there isn't much discussion about the stuff on the positive terminal.

 

[Snakebitten]

Ahhh
Sorry, misunderstood.

Positive side isn't going to matter. You should be good to go

 

[PaulGrun]

Ahhh
Sorry, misunderstood.

Positive side isn't going to matter. You should be good to go

Got it ... thanks. That fitting on the positive terminal seemed so unusual it made me wonder if anybody has a clue what it's intended for. It almost looks like a wire clamp intended for connecting *something* to the positive terminal.
In any case, just the idle musings of an otherwise unoccupied mind.

 

[Snakebitten]

No worries. I too have spade connectors for the battery voltage monitor I use to monitor the static voltage without disturbing the truck.

 

[Samson16]

Anyone have any advice on using a battery tender? I know there are two 12v batteries and the hybrid battery. I keep getting my truck going into deep sleep mode and I drive it every day. I'm assuming I had one of the trucks that was sitting on the lot waiting for chips and it drained the battery. I've thought about just replacing the batteries but I'd rather not drop $500 into my brand new truck already. Dealer said batteries tested fine after a no start issue I had.

Just want some feedback on a battery tender JR or something like that before I go frying the entire electrical system.

If you're driving it everyday and it is going into deep sleep mode, you have a bad cell. Replace your battery.


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Maybe it's prorated.

 

[HammaMan]

If you're driving it everyday and it is going into deep sleep mode, you have a bad cell. Replace your battery.

Driving it everyday won't change the issue people are experiencing. The trucks don't like to charge the batteries to an acceptable level. Just is what it is. The truck needs to drive 15-20 miles per day to charge. It's really dumb logic on ford's part. They remind me of H&K's reputation regarding customers with an internet appointed motto of "because you suck, and we hate you". They'd rather have customers put through a shitty experience with constant accessory sleep than to actually provide a charging algorithm that will charge the battery ASAP while the truck is being used.

( https://monsterhunternation.com/2007/10/09/hk-because-you-suck-and-we-hate-you/ )

 

[Samson16]

Driving it everyday won't change the issue people are experiencing. The trucks don't like to charge the batteries to an acceptable level. Just is what it is. The truck needs to drive 15-20 miles per day to charge. It's really dumb logic on ford's part. They remind me of H&K's reputation regarding customers with an internet appointed motto of "because you suck, and we hate you". They'd rather have customers put through a shitty experience with constant accessory sleep than to actually provide a charging algorithm that will charge the battery ASAP while the truck is being used.

( https://monsterhunternation.com/2007/10/09/hk-because-you-suck-and-we-hate-you/ )

Once again you are correct. I don't know why I bother posting anymore lol. Just read 12.36V across my AGM which is only just above 70% charged and that's after putting +100 miles Friday and Sunday on a trip to St. Augustine Beach for the weekend. Plenty of time to reach full charge twice. I also put 22 miles each way going to work and back 4 days a week. With the vehicle on ICE/EV doesn't matter, I get 14.35V across the terminals. Our old alternators would put 14.1V with as much current as the battery needed up to the alternator's limit. 14.1V won't damage a fully charged AGM battery. The PB's DC/DC is charging higher than that so must employ some monitoring strategy to reduce the voltage as the AGM reaches full charge. This strategy is failing to properly charge the AGM.

You know all of this already and to a greater extent than I, but it is fun to explain what I think lol.

* I still may be correct that his battery is shot after prolonged under charging. It shortens the lifespan considerably.

 

[Samson16]

Victron Energy Blue Smart IP65 12-Volt 15 amp Battery Charger (Bluetooth)

Sad admission that our vaunted PB needs help to charge itself... ?‍

 

[Snakebitten]

Although the DC/DC converter is providing 14.X Volts to the low voltage side of the truck, it is not always providing enough amps to be charging the AGM. There are times it is providing very little current beyond the consumption rate of the truck.

Imagine hooking up a battery charger to a battery on a truck without an alternator. The battery charger could be providing 30Amps while the truck is consuming 28Amps. The battery itself would not exactly be charging beyond a trickle.

There's a PID that basically reflects the amount of current being drawn from the 12V battery(s) or being absorbed by the battery. So as HammaMan was describing, the charging logic isn't even trying to get the AGM much above 80% SOC. And if you are monitoring the PIDs, the DC/DC charger will reduce the voltage to about 12.7V and may 1 or 2 charging amps worth of current when the battery is at or near the target of 80% SOC.

Irritating for sure.

Throw a battery charger on the battery all night and let it run a full 6 or 7 hour smart charge.

The next day, the SOC will be higher than the charging strategy target. You will witness the DD/DC voltage intentionally stay lower than the 14.X. And barely a trickle of a charging current. Within a few days, the truck will drag that battery back down into the 70's %

Big Dog Daddy edited the Forscan value AND through a fresh H8 in his Coyote. It has been able to maintain the 80's.
Around here we consider that success!

 

[Samson16]

the target of 80% SOC.

80% is not a satisfactory target SOC for an AGM. Absorbing Glass Mat does not change it's lead acid composition. Charge it up. Too smart by half these engineers sometimes. They developed a charging profile that is worse than hammering away at the battery with a clueless alternator! Goodness.

In fact, charge it up then float it once it's charged!

What's next? How to micro manage a pack mule?

Yes I'm using the edit button repeatedly. Apologies.

 

[StoneGray22]

No worries. I too have spade connectors for the battery voltage monitor I use to monitor the static voltage without disturbing the truck.

You have a link to where you picked this up? Been looking for something to keep an eye on what's going on with my battery.

 

[Samson16]

I will purchase a quality smart charger like the one I posted, permanently connect wires to the battery as described earlier, secure them safely for ease of access without opening the hood, and connect a charger to it once a week. Ugh. Makes me want to get rid of it.

Does the Tundra have this fundamental flaw? It's a straight up rip off for the most part.

 

[Samson16]

a fresh H8

I don't understand what that means unfortunately.

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