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New Order POwerboost expected payload

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SRMD

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SRMD, It sounds like I have about what you are looking to order. The only difference is I have the regular Tow Package. My truck is a 2022 157" 4x4 302a Powerboost with 360 cameras, Tow Package, factory Spray in Bed Liner, Bed Utility Package, 7.2kw, & Tow Mirrors. Payload on door sticker is listed at 1509lbs. I hope that this helps!
I did not order spray in bed liner or fx4/skid plates. I will add them after market however. Waiting to pick my truck up, so we will see what the payload is. I was hoping for more than 1600, but I need the bed step as part of the utility package
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So I took my new truck to the CAT scale today- gas full and no passenger.
King Ranch Standard; Powerboost; 2WD; 7.2KW; 360 Assist and camera
Base weight- 5500#
GVWR- 7350#
Payload= GVWR-Base weight
Payload= 1850#
My yellow sticker- 1787#

I used 2 KR std to estimate my payload
1856# & 1844#
Estimating is difficult due to the lack of information. The Ford tow information is about it, and it is limited, dated, and somewhat cryptic.
ALL of my estimates were well above 1800# using multiple trucks.

Of note, 1787# was assigned BEFORE my truck was built (according to the VIN specific calculator that was operational in October). From my experience of one, Ford is not weighing each individual truck and printing the appropriate sticker.
I am more comfortable with >1800#.

As a pleasant aside- My truck came with the Front Sensing System, which the 2023 Order Guide specifically excluded from 360 Assist. FSS required 360 Active (Blue Cruise).

Happy New Year!

yellow sticker.webp


CAT base weight 20221230.webp
Keep in mind that Cat Scales round to the nearest 20lb on each axle, so it's possible that your weight is off a bit due to rounding. Further, they're calibrated for the trucks carrying tens of thousands of pounds, so they're likely assuming that being off by a hundred pounds or more are well within acceptable tolerances.

The 1787 figure was likely calculated based upon their known weights of all of the equipment that is on the truck; I don't think that they weigh each truck during the assembly process. (It would likely only deviate a pound or two from their calculated weight, given that they know the average weight of each component, and an individual weighing process would likely significantly slow down the manufacturing process for little benefit.) I would assume that the yellow sticker is more accurate than the Cat scale, if the numbers are reasonably close. Especially if you haven't done any after-market modifications.
 

cheesedogf150

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Keep in mind that Cat Scales round to the nearest 20lb on each axle, so it's possible that your weight is off a bit due to rounding. Further, they're calibrated for the trucks carrying tens of thousands of pounds, so they're likely assuming that being off by a hundred pounds or more are well within acceptable tolerances.

The 1787 figure was likely calculated based upon their known weights of all of the equipment that is on the truck; I don't think that they weigh each truck during the assembly process. (It would likely only deviate a pound or two from their calculated weight, given that they know the average weight of each component, and an individual weighing process would likely significantly slow down the manufacturing process for little benefit.) I would assume that the yellow sticker is more accurate than the Cat scale, if the numbers are reasonably close. Especially if you haven't done any after-market modifications.
Going through many threads, much faith is put into both yellow stickers and CAT scales- the accuracy of both is difficult to verify.
For me, I combed through numerous yellow stickers and window stickers to find trucks comparable to my order. Using the Ford tow information , I adjusted for option weights to speculate my build. Not an exact science, but used the tools at hand. All but one estimate came out comfortably above 1800#. 2 very similar KR standards estimated 1844# & 1856#.
I am pretty confident that my payload is around 1800#, maybe? greater.
I have seen 1 yellow sticker for a 157WB Powerboost that was higher than the 2120# maximum that Ford states. So the Ford generated sticker is not always correct.
So in the end, once we load the truck and attach a trailer our only option is to use the CAT scales.
Just my experience and comments. There is no perfect conclusion.
Payload and towing threads are common and some people are very dogmatic (not directed at Aron?). I think the important thing is for people like me to have a place to learn.
1 the advertising literature from the manufacturers is useless and misleading
2 salesmen are often of little to no help
3 don’t just blindly hook up a trailer and take off
4 do a lot of homework to determine your individual truck’s towing capability
 

hotrodmex

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Keep in mind that Cat Scales round to the nearest 20lb on each axle, so it's possible that your weight is off a bit due to rounding. Further, they're calibrated for the trucks carrying tens of thousands of pounds, so they're likely assuming that being off by a hundred pounds or more are well within acceptable tolerances.

The 1787 figure was likely calculated based upon their known weights of all of the equipment that is on the truck; I don't think that they weigh each truck during the assembly process. (It would likely only deviate a pound or two from their calculated weight, given that they know the average weight of each component, and an individual weighing process would likely significantly slow down the manufacturing process for little benefit.) I would assume that the yellow sticker is more accurate than the Cat scale, if the numbers are reasonably close. Especially if you haven't done any after-market modifications.
Going through many threads, much faith is put into both yellow stickers and CAT scales- the accuracy of both is difficult to verify.
I had to weight my truck for registering in CA when buying out of state, so I took to opportunity to take a few things off (and weighed them individually) and run the tank down (scales were at a gas station, so filled up right after). I've got a detailed post on my results somewhere, but the short of it is the CAT scales and the sticker on the door only were off by about 20 lbs from each other.

I'm confident the scales are really good (being overweight at all commercially is a hefty fine), and that Ford actually does roll the trucks over a scale, if anything just for liability. There so much post-assembly work done it'd be easy to have a weigh station and stickering be one of them.



..Or their MRP is so good they have the weight of every config mapped and can spit out a very accurate number.
 

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Aron

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Going through many threads, much faith is put into both yellow stickers and CAT scales- the accuracy of both is difficult to verify.
For me, I combed through numerous yellow stickers and window stickers to find trucks comparable to my order. Using the Ford tow information , I adjusted for option weights to speculate my build. Not an exact science, but used the tools at hand. All but one estimate came out comfortably above 1800#. 2 very similar KR standards estimated 1844# & 1856#.
I am pretty confident that my payload is around 1800#, maybe? greater.
I have seen 1 yellow sticker for a 157WB Powerboost that was higher than the 2120# maximum that Ford states. So the Ford generated sticker is not always correct.
So in the end, once we load the truck and attach a trailer our only option is to use the CAT scales.
Just my experience and comments. There is no perfect conclusion.
Payload and towing threads are common and some people are very dogmatic (not directed at Aron?). I think the important thing is for people like me to have a place to learn.
1 the advertising literature from the manufacturers is useless and misleading
2 salesmen are often of little to no help
3 don’t just blindly hook up a trailer and take off
4 do a lot of homework to determine your individual truck’s towing capability
Understood. I agree wholeheartedly with your four points! I guess that I'd say that both the vehicle sticker and the Cat Scale weighs are "pretty accurate," as long as one understands that they might not be as precise as one might like. Neither is likely to be accurate down to the pound, but both will get you to a similar answer.

I've gone through virtually the same process as you when I ordered a truck (for probably similar reasons). I ended up with a yellow sticker of 1831 lbs. When I was doing those same back-of-the-envelope calculations trying to balance options to order with an eye towards maximizing payload, I was estimating 1900 lbs, so it's also lower than I was hoping for.

When all is said and done, the yellow sticker is legally the correct one (even if it's inaccurate). It's what the highway patrol will use if they ever need to enforce any weight-based moving violations. I don't think that you'd have much luck trying to convince a judge that the manufacturer's vehicle-specific posted numbers are somehow flawed based upon other publications that Ford has released, or 3rd party scales. I'm not saying that you're wrong...just that it probably won't meet legal muster, if that matters at all to you. (Even with that one case that had a sticker higher than theoretical maximum, that tells me that the document showing maximums was incorrect rather than the sticker, since Ford has to comply with regulations on what the sticker says, so they're more likely to get that right than the reverse. That document also had a number of blanks or "TBDs" for option weights, if I recall.)

For what it's worth, I try to stay at or below my weight ratings (all of them, not just payload). But I'm an engineer, so I also recognize that there are factors of safety built into each of those numbers, and that those numbers are really based upon highway-speed dynamic loading rather than stationary weights at a truck scale. Your vehicle won't break sitting still and you overload it by one pound. The truck could probably safely carry 1000 lbs over the posted payload rating without any damage if you went slow and avoided bumps or other vertical jarring motions that cause sudden shocks to the suspension system or frame. But it also might fail if you're 10 lb over capacity and hit a huge pothole at 85mph. It's a continuum of failure risk that goes up (dramatically) with speed and rough roads.

I've towed my travel trailer across the country and back, and I was probably 500 lb above payload the entire time. I never felt unsafe or caused damage to the vehicle because I kept the speeds low (usually lower than the speed limit), kept to well-maintained roads like interstates, and kept much longer than normal stopping distance between me and the vehicle in front of me. Technically, it was probably illegal in at least one state, so that was a risk.

Static weight ratings are a simplistic way of determining the risk of component or operational failure, but it has the advantage of being the most easily enforcable, objective measure of failure risk, so that's what gets used. Ford is probably being VERY conservative with those ratings (i.e., using a larger than necessary factor of safety) in many typical use cases because they want to ensure that the vehicle still operate safely even in cases of severe use.

TLDR: As long as you are operating in a fairly mundane fashion, the diffence between a payload of 1787 and 1850 shouln't really be relevant. Off-roading or fast highway driving may be a different situation.
 

wrgrimes

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Understood. I agree wholeheartedly with your four points! I guess that I'd say that both the vehicle sticker and the Cat Scale weighs are "pretty accurate," as long as one understands that they might not be as precise as one might like. Neither is likely to be accurate down to the pound, but both will get you to a similar answer.

I've gone through virtually the same process as you when I ordered a truck (for probably similar reasons). I ended up with a yellow sticker of 1831 lbs. When I was doing those same back-of-the-envelope calculations trying to balance options to order with an eye towards maximizing payload, I was estimating 1900 lbs, so it's also lower than I was hoping for.

When all is said and done, the yellow sticker is legally the correct one (even if it's inaccurate). It's what the highway patrol will use if they ever need to enforce any weight-based moving violations. I don't think that you'd have much luck trying to convince a judge that the manufacturer's vehicle-specific posted numbers are somehow flawed based upon other publications that Ford has released, or 3rd party scales. I'm not saying that you're wrong...just that it probably won't meet legal muster, if that matters at all to you. (Even with that one case that had a sticker higher than theoretical maximum, that tells me that the document showing maximums was incorrect rather than the sticker, since Ford has to comply with regulations on what the sticker says, so they're more likely to get that right than the reverse. That document also had a number of blanks or "TBDs" for option weights, if I recall.)

For what it's worth, I try to stay at or below my weight ratings (all of them, not just payload). But I'm an engineer, so I also recognize that there are factors of safety built into each of those numbers, and that those numbers are really based upon highway-speed dynamic loading rather than stationary weights at a truck scale. Your vehicle won't break sitting still and you overload it by one pound. The truck could probably safely carry 1000 lbs over the posted payload rating without any damage if you went slow and avoided bumps or other vertical jarring motions that cause sudden shocks to the suspension system or frame. But it also might fail if you're 10 lb over capacity and hit a huge pothole at 85mph. It's a continuum of failure risk that goes up (dramatically) with speed and rough roads.

I've towed my travel trailer across the country and back, and I was probably 500 lb above payload the entire time. I never felt unsafe or caused damage to the vehicle because I kept the speeds low (usually lower than the speed limit), kept to well-maintained roads like interstates, and kept much longer than normal stopping distance between me and the vehicle in front of me. Technically, it was probably illegal in at least one state, so that was a risk.

Static weight ratings are a simplistic way of determining the risk of component or operational failure, but it has the advantage of being the most easily enforcable, objective measure of failure risk, so that's what gets used. Ford is probably being VERY conservative with those ratings (i.e., using a larger than necessary factor of safety) in many typical use cases because they want to ensure that the vehicle still operate safely even in cases of severe use.

TLDR: As long as you are operating in a fairly mundane fashion, the diffence between a payload of 1787 and 1850 shouln't really be relevant. Off-roading or fast highway driving may be a different situation.
Well appreciated
I plan to be reasonable with my payload- not like a southeast Asian motorcycle (I have only seen pictures).
Starting in the late 90’s I started pulling a 6500# boat/trailer. Somehow I stumbled upon an Equalizer WDH (the internet was not the resource of today). I thought I was smarter than everyone in the world as I watched friends pull with overloaded vehicles. Most everyone thought I was over doing it.
In retrospect, I was really dumb.
Towing was OK, but payload- WOW.
I used a Suburban and the a Sequoia. 8 adults, packed to the gills and a top carrier. Vehicles drove like a dream! But I would not advise with my current knowledge.
I like your common sense- load judiciously and drive carefully.
 

RuggedGoods

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This thread is interesting. Kind of crazy to see how trim and options can lead to a ~400lb difference in rated payload - in a pretty critical range for capability. You platinum and limited guys are basically just driving big cars, lol. (kidding, kidding).

I was getting ready to order a '23 PB but I need to retain some legitimate tow capacity (currently have an '03 2500HD, 6.0L V8 tows awesome but slow and thirsty), meaning up to 800-1000lbs of tongue weight on the hitch should be readily accommodated.

This thread has taught me (corrections welcome):
  • the PB has a 7350lb GVWR but essentially it is a 7850 GVWR truck underneath. Reportedly doesn't squat excessively with some weight in the bed.
  • keep it minimal on optioning the truck. Not difficult for me, as this idea is pushing my budget to the max anyway, but specifically:
    • the giant sunroof is heavy
    • the bed utility package / tailgate step is 40+ lbs (darn)
    • very glad to see that the 6.5' bed only adds 20 lbs
    • what other heavy hitters am I missing? 4x4 is mandatory up north, of course.
  • don't get the max towing package. Yeah it raises the tow rating from 11k to 12.4k (on 4x4) but it actually reduces payload slightly so in effect you are paying for literally nothing. No one should really tow more than 10 or 11,000 lbs on a 1500 pickup anyway.
  • About the highest payload you are going to see on a 4x4 PB is ~1800 lbs. More likely to end up in the 1650-1750 lb range with a lightly optioned XLT.

Questions:
- does the console interior weigh a lot more than the front bench seats? (and can you really only get the console in a "sport" package or is that a build configurator bug)
- if you order at a dealership, can you customize things in a package? IE, can you get the worktable tailgate surface without the bed step, etc.
- can you delete standard things and would that show up in the price and the payload sticker (running boards, spare tire, etc).
 

HammaMan

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This thread is interesting. Kind of crazy to see how trim and options can lead to a ~400lb difference in rated payload - in a pretty critical range for capability. You platinum and limited guys are basically just driving big cars, lol. (kidding, kidding).

I was getting ready to order a '23 PB but I need to retain some legitimate tow capacity (currently have an '03 2500HD, 6.0L V8 tows awesome but slow and thirsty), meaning up to 800-1000lbs of tongue weight on the hitch should be readily accommodated.

This thread has taught me (corrections welcome):
  • the PB has a 7350lb GVWR but essentially it is a 7850 GVWR truck underneath. Reportedly doesn't squat excessively with some weight in the bed.
  • keep it minimal on optioning the truck. Not difficult for me, as this idea is pushing my budget to the max anyway, but specifically:
    • the giant sunroof is heavy
    • the bed utility package / tailgate step is 40+ lbs (darn)
    • very glad to see that the 6.5' bed only adds 20 lbs
    • what other heavy hitters am I missing? 4x4 is mandatory up north, of course.
  • don't get the max towing package. Yeah it raises the tow rating from 11k to 12.4k (on 4x4) but it actually reduces payload slightly so in effect you are paying for literally nothing. No one should really tow more than 10 or 11,000 lbs on a 1500 pickup anyway.
  • About the highest payload you are going to see on a 4x4 PB is ~1800 lbs. More likely to end up in the 1650-1750 lb range with a lightly optioned XLT.

Questions:
- does the console interior weigh a lot more than the front bench seats? (and can you really only get the console in a "sport" package or is that a build configurator bug)
- if you order at a dealership, can you customize things in a package? IE, can you get the worktable tailgate surface without the bed step, etc.
- can you delete standard things and would that show up in the price and the payload sticker (running boards, spare tire, etc).

Somewhere in some thread, there's a spreadsheet w/ option weights.

To keep the weight down on a PB for sticker purposes, no bed liner, no bed utility package, no FX4, no max tow = 1670 or so payload sticker. Fixed back window saves like 4lbs, and the sunroof was maybe 12lbs.

Max tow is worthless on PB as you run out of GVWR before you run out of trailer rating unless you've got a stripped XL or XLT in 2WD.
 

wrgrimes

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This thread is interesting. Kind of crazy to see how trim and options can lead to a ~400lb difference in rated payload - in a pretty critical range for capability. You platinum and limited guys are basically just driving big cars, lol. (kidding, kidding).

I was getting ready to order a '23 PB but I need to retain some legitimate tow capacity (currently have an '03 2500HD, 6.0L V8 tows awesome but slow and thirsty), meaning up to 800-1000lbs of tongue weight on the hitch should be readily accommodated.

This thread has taught me (corrections welcome):
  • the PB has a 7350lb GVWR but essentially it is a 7850 GVWR truck underneath. Reportedly doesn't squat excessively with some weight in the bed.
  • keep it minimal on optioning the truck. Not difficult for me, as this idea is pushing my budget to the max anyway, but specifically:
    • the giant sunroof is heavy
    • the bed utility package / tailgate step is 40+ lbs (darn)
    • very glad to see that the 6.5' bed only adds 20 lbs
    • what other heavy hitters am I missing? 4x4 is mandatory up north, of course.
  • don't get the max towing package. Yeah it raises the tow rating from 11k to 12.4k (on 4x4) but it actually reduces payload slightly so in effect you are paying for literally nothing. No one should really tow more than 10 or 11,000 lbs on a 1500 pickup anyway.
  • About the highest payload you are going to see on a 4x4 PB is ~1800 lbs. More likely to end up in the 1650-1750 lb range with a lightly optioned XLT.

Questions:
- does the console interior weigh a lot more than the front bench seats? (and can you really only get the console in a "sport" package or is that a build configurator bug)
- if you order at a dealership, can you customize things in a package? IE, can you get the worktable tailgate surface without the bed step, etc.
- can you delete standard things and would that show up in the price and the payload sticker (running boards, spare tire, etc).
Yes, there have been many good comments and much to learn.
I looked back through my examples of 4x4. The FX4 (skid plate adds 28#).
Lariat-mid; 145WB; Tow tech; 7.2KW; FX4; 20"Wheel: PL 1569# (Shave 28#= 1597#)
Lariat-mid; Loaded: PL 1414#
Lariat- hi; 145WB; Max tow (26#?); 7.2KW; 20"Wheel; tow mirror(21#); bed utility (40-50#?): PL 1444#
KR-std; 4x2 (Subtract 290#)145WB; 7.2KW; console safe; (no tow): PL 1870# (est 1580#)
KR-std: 145WB; max tow; 7.2KW; 18"Wheel; tow mirror: PL 1570#

A very lightly optioned PowerBoost from the Lariats and King Ranch, my guess is around 1600#
From the Ford tow information site https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/attachments/2021-f-150-weights-specs-pdf.12613/
PowerBoost 4x4; 157WB max payload is 1810#; I guess an XL with no options would come close to that. The options and trims add up fast.

Sorry, I do not have your answers regarding cherry-picking options to delete/add. The order guide my dealer showed me did not allow for much customization other than picking packages.
 

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Just picked up my 23 PB, BAP, Lariat 502A, 4x4, Moonroof. Did the trailer tow pack vs max tow since you don't get the 36 gallon tank and PB already comes with 9.75 rear-end with 3.73's. Payload is 1395 lbs. I actually also like the 1" block in the rear vs the 2" so the Ford Performance leveling kit will be more level front to back.
 

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Just for comparison. My 21 PB 4x4 Platinum payload is 1323#. I have almost every on it which includes the option 701A.
Ford F-150 New Order POwerboost expected payload 1673974796157

If you are trying to max your Payload number, use the FORD options guide. When I was shopping for a TT I was very careful understanding how much tongue weigh the TT was going to take away from the Payload number.
 
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wrgrimes

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Just for comparison. My 21 PB 4x4 Platinum payload is 1323#. I have almost every on it which includes the option 701A.
1673974796157.png

If you are trying to max your Payload number, use the FORD options guide. When I was shopping for a TT I was very careful understanding how much tongue weigh the TT was going to take away from the Payload number.
Curious- where can the Ford options guide be found?
Is this something the dealer has with weights?
I explained my goal with 3 dealers (1fleet manager) and no one offered this resource.
I only have the 2021 Ford tow information with some option weights.
 

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Curious- where can the Ford options guide be found?
Is this something the dealer has with weights?
I explained my goal with 3 dealers (1fleet manager) and no one offered this resource.
I only have the 2021 Ford tow information with some option weights.
Try this. There may be a newer version.
 

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RuggedGoods

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Thanks, that's a helpful document.

Definite No's (for me) : moonroof, tailgate step, FX4, max trailer tow, 20" wheels, bed accessories (but will probably do after purchase...) Everything else is pretty minor.

Only 6 lbs for the power sliding rear window? Hmmmm.....
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