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What is needed to perfectly level a power boost?

J509

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I wouldn’t do the 2.5”. I did the 2” Readylift and I now have just 5/8 - 3/4” of rake.
- 2” Readylift spacers
- LT275/65R20 Bridgestone Dueler Ascent AT (50psi, 53lbs, “on-road all terrain”, very quiet)

- Started with 3” rake, now have 5/8 to 3/4”. 2.5” level would be too high up
Front.

Here are before & after pics:

IMG_0463.jpeg


IMG_0508.jpeg


IMG_0513.jpeg
 

J509

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I wouldn’t do the 2.5”. I did the 2” Readylift and I now have just 5/8 - 3/4” of rake.
- 2” Readylift spacers
- LT275/65R20 Bridgestone Dueler Ascent AT (50psi, 53lbs, “on-road all terrain”, very quiet)

- Started with 3” rake, now have 5/8 to 3/4”. 2.5” level would be too high up
Front.

Here are before & after pics:

IMG_0463.jpeg


IMG_0508.jpeg


IMG_0513.jpeg
I have a 21 limited that I am thinking of doing the same set up as yours. I would like your input on the tires, are they fairly quiet on the road? Were they easy to balance? Can you post some close up pictures of the tires?
Thanks
 

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oldbarn70

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I have a 21 limited that I am thinking of doing the same set up as yours. I would like your input on the tires, are they fairly quiet on the road? Were they easy to balance? Can you post some close up pictures of the tires?
Thanks
They are the new Bridgestone Dueler AT Ascent (LT275/65/20). Nicest riding tire I’ve had (and I’ve had dozens in many different F150, 250, and 350’s). Listed as “On-Road All Terrain” so not overly aggressive but they are awesome in the snow here in NH. For a Load Range E, they are on the lighter side at 53 lbs so not too much of a hit in MPG.
With the Powerboost and stock P rated tires, I was getting 22-25 mpg in varied driving, now with the LT-E’s I’m getting between 19.5-23.
My 5.0L got almost the same MPG with the same weight LT-E tires.
Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? IMG_0857
 

J509

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They are the new Bridgestone Dueler AT Ascent (LT275/65/20). Nicest riding tire I’ve had (and I’ve had dozens in many different F150, 250, and 350’s). Listed as “On-Road All Terrain” so not overly aggressive but they are awesome in the snow here in NH. For a Load Range E, they are on the lighter side at 53 lbs so not too much of a hit in MPG.
With the Powerboost and stock P rated tires, I was getting 22-25 mpg in varied driving, now with the LT-E’s I’m getting between 19.5-23.
My 5.0L got almost the same MPG with the same weight LT-E tires.
IMG_0857.jpeg
Thanks for the reply. I think I will go with the 285-45-22 Ascent on my stock wheels. My dealership gave me a quote of $500 to install a 2”level kit.
 

Ry55

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Hey All, I have a '23 PB and I'm planning to self install a Readylift 2" puck next week. The Readylift directions say you have to rotate the strut cap 180 degrees by compressing the springs so you don't hit the CCD system. It's not clear if that's necessary if you don't have CCD (I don't).

I know the whole strut ends up rotated 180 degrees and I plan to rotate the bushing for the lower strut mounting bolts. Is that enough to keep the suspension happy?

I've read and watched dozens of posts and videos and I don't see anyone compressing the springs to rotate the strut cap so I thought I'd ask the experts here. Thanks!
 

HammaMan

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Just swap sides you put the struts back on. Passenger to driver and vice versa
 

Ry55

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Just swap sides you put the struts back on. Passenger to driver and vice versa
I had seen this mentioned but didn't trust it at first. Makes sense now that I puzzle it out. Thanks!
 

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mredwin25

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there you go 21’ PB Bilstein 5100 on a 1” front (two notches) drives great.

Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? 174020A0-F1B8-4AC7-803F-2CAFCACDFD1B
 

Ry55

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So I tackled this Readylift 2" puck kit last week, got an alignment, but I'm heading some knocks/pops from my front suspension. Took the wheels off twice, checked everything, except I realize now I made a mistake with the top strut nuts.

Readylift says to use the factory 18mm nuts to secure the puck to the strut, and use their M10 nuts to mount the strut. I reversed this. ?

Do you think that's my noise source? Both nuts threaded on smoothly so I never questioned if I had it backwards. Maybe I should actually read all the directions next time....

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Etl330

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Anyone know how much their clearance has changed since leveling? I’m looking at the eibach kit for ride quality but can’t afford my truck being any high due to garage access.
 

FaaWrenchBndr

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Anyone know how much their clearance has changed since leveling? I’m looking at the eibach kit for ride quality but can’t afford my truck being any high due to garage access.
You could use a floor jack and a 6’ level across the top of the cab to determine how much front lift you can add. Measure to ground for garage clearance. Don’t forget to factor in tire size if you are going to change them.

Personally, I would want at least 1” of a buffer. I can tell you my 24 Powerboost, as it sits from factory is 69” to highest point of the cab. Those two block sensors at the rear of the cab.
 

Ry55

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So I tackled this Readylift 2" puck kit last week, got an alignment, but I'm heading some knocks/pops from my front suspension. Took the wheels off twice, checked everything, except I realize now I made a mistake with the top strut nuts.

Readylift says to use the factory 18mm nuts to secure the puck to the strut, and use their M10 nuts to mount the strut. I reversed this. ?

Do you think that's my noise source? Both nuts threaded on smoothly so I never questioned if I had it backwards. Maybe I should actually read all the directions next time....

markup_1000011169.webp
So the noise was my Steeda rear sway bar, guess I just had front struts on my mind. It's a relief to feel like a tank again.

Oh and the driver to passenger strut swap did not work. Both lined up identical so I drilled two holes in a RR tie and bent the bottom bushing to get the angle right after putting some penetrating oil on it. Worked well!

Ford F-150 What is needed to perfectly level a power boost? PXL_20241228_161914250
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