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Spark Plug Change 3.5

Mosey

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I had to index the plugs on my 3 cylinder Evinrude e-tec outboard. I brought one of the old plugs to NAPA and had to compare where the threads started on each plug. I also marked the electrode location on the insulator to be sure the open side of each new plug was pointing towards the fuel injectors.

Looks like Ford has these lugs machined so that at 18 lbft the electrode is correctly positioned. I will still mark the plugs when it is time to replace them. The big question is which way should a plug point? Probably like in my outboard, towards the fuel injectors.
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travisN000

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@amschind
What is the build date on your vehicle? As you can see, mine is pretty close to the date of the plug change, 07/19/2021. ..mine was built two days after and I am curios how accurate these dates are; should I pull a plug before I pick up a new set, or trust the man?



If you put your VIN into parts.ford.com, and search/select a part (for example spark plugs), at the top of a part listing, or left panel of a parts search it will tell you your build date (red square below, verified to my door sticker):

Build-date.webp


..having said that, if you are looking for spark plugs, make sure you read the fine print on the 2021 model year, as it appears the plugs changed in July:

Build-date-spark-plug-2021-f150-powerboost.png


If my reading is correct the torque spec is also different with the newer non-tapered gasketed plug requiring 18 ft-lb / 216 in-lb / 25 Nm, and the older tapered 11 ft-lb / 133 in-lb / 15 Nm
(please correct me if I am wrong!)
 
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amschind

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@amschind
What is the build date on your vehicle? As you can see, mine is pretty close to the date of the plug change, 07/19/2021. ..mine was built two days after and I am curios how accurate these dates are; should I pull a plug before I pick up a new set, or trust the man?
Strong vote for pull one and look. The old design is a tapered shoulder, the new one is a copper washer. The seat in the cylinder head is shaped different between the two, so one design isn't going to seal well against the other's shoulder. I had to throw away a set of plugs before I realized this insanity, but I still wouldn't risk a cylinder head over it.
 
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amschind

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Wouldn't be surprised if dealers just put the new ones in all 2021's even if they came with the previous ones.
Which is probably true, and yet another reason to do your own maintenance.
 

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travisN000

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I finally got around to pulling the plug... Despite having a build date two days after the change, I still have the old tapered plugs..

Ford F-150 Spark Plug Change 3.5 1000006300
 

Jrohner78

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What I don't care for is when I put my VIN into the Ford parts website my 3/3/2021 build date F-150 says both styles of spark plugs will fit....
Ford F-150 Spark Plug Change 3.5 f150sp1
Ford F-150 Spark Plug Change 3.5 f150sp2
 

Mosey

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What I don't care for is when I put my VIN into the Ford parts website my 3/3/2021 build date F-150 says both styles of spark plugs will fit....
f150sp1.JPG
f150sp2.JPG
Pull one and see.
 

FaaWrenchBndr

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I had to index the plugs on my 3 cylinder Evinrude e-tec outboard. I brought one of the old plugs to NAPA and had to compare where the threads started on each plug. I also marked the electrode location on the insulator to be sure the open side of each new plug was pointing towards the fuel injectors.

Looks like Ford has these lugs machined so that at 18 lbft the electrode is correctly positioned. I will still mark the plugs when it is time to replace them. The big question is which way should a plug point? Probably like in my outboard, towards the fuel injectors.
many years ago when I was racing, we always pointed the side electrode to the intake valve.
 

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travisN000

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I had to index the plugs on my 3 cylinder Evinrude e-tec outboard. I brought one of the old plugs to NAPA and had to compare where the threads started on each plug. I also marked the electrode location on the insulator to be sure the open side of each new plug was pointing towards the fuel injectors.

Looks like Ford has these lugs machined so that at 18 lbft the electrode is correctly positioned. I will still mark the plugs when it is time to replace them. The big question is which way should a plug point? Probably like in my outboard, towards the fuel injectors.
I can confirm after changing mine, that the torque does matter. My torque wrench failed on the first plug... I knew I was over torquing it, as 18 ft-lbs isn't super tight, and confirmed by testing it on a lug nut; it still wouldn't click with heavy effort on the lug nut. I started the truck with intention of running out to buy a new torque wrench and it ran really rough; I ended up taking another vehicle, and it ran perfect after torquing properly,
 

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I can confirm after changing mine, that the torque does matter. My torque wrench failed on the first plug... I knew I was over torquing it, as 18 ft-lbs isn't super tight, and confirmed by testing it on a lug nut; it still wouldn't click with heavy effort on the lug nut. I started the truck with intention of running out to buy a new torque wrench and it ran really rough; I ended up taking another vehicle, and it ran perfect after torquing properly,
Which torque wrench and where did you get it?
 

travisN000

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Which torque wrench and where did you get it?
cheap harbor freight... they exchanged no questions asked; I bought a digital gauge to validate, and the new one is accurate.
 
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amschind

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It upsets me the Ford lists parts as compatible when clearly they are not. That's the sort of stuff that the Ford Account should jump on, but all we get is crickets.
 
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amschind

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UPDATE:
I did the second change at 121k. Electrodes looked pristine, straps had a tiny puddle of oxide where the arc hits, boots looked new, Truck maybe runs a bit smoother. The anti-seize on the threads made this 100x easier than the first exchange from dry factory threads. You need a 6" and a 3" 3/8" extension for the plugs along with a deep 8mm 1/4" socket for the coil retainer bolts. A long handle 3/8" socket wrench helps A TON for getting the factory plugs blasted loose.
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