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Replacement air filter

Calson

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On my Chevy diesel pickup I tried a Fram filter and the fit was poor and so I returned it and bought a GM filter that did fit. The cost was roughly the same and filtration is going to be the same.

If I ever get enough miles on my disabled 2022 truck to replace the air filter it will be with a Motorcraft one that is engineered for the Ford engine in the truck.

Most people do not realize that air filters need to work after 25,000 miles are driven and a great deal of air has been filtered and media loading has taken place. In order to do that all air filters allow a lot of particles to pass through the media when they are new and do not believe the micron filtering specs provided as their is no testing agency to verify the numbers given.

Similar problem with diesel fuel filters that are supposed to filter out 2 micron sized particles but acually allow a great many particles to pass through that are 10 microns or larger in size. This is why in part that fuel injectors on diesel engine have a much shorter life than ones used on gas engine.
 

HammaMan

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Curious why the sarcasm… K&Ns are proven better.

There are no free lunches -- K&Ns improve airflow at the cost of not filtering as well. Watch any particle test on it and you shall see.
 

Samson16

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We used to flip the air cleaner cover upside down on my parents 1980 Delta 88. Sounded so cool

I'm old. My mind wanders...sorry...
 

Samson16

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Does the K&N filter produce more horsepower when I use snake oil?
 

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fordtruckman2003

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K&N probably does get a tiny power gain as the engine will use what it can get. It's not nearly enough to notice outside of a dyno though.
 

Graygoose2021

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We used to flip the air cleaner cover upside down on my parents 1980 Delta 88. Sounded so cool

I'm old. My mind wanders...sorry...
make 4 barrels go...BAH... WAAAAAAAAAOOOOPPP
 

trabo

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There are no free lunches -- K&Ns improve airflow at the cost of not filtering as well. Watch any particle test on it and you shall see.
Please link me to said particle test
 

crazywayne311

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should have made this thread with a poll of what everyone uses.
first off, AEM is an expensive filter!
i need a new one. OEM, WIX, AEM or NAPA Gold?!
 

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Snakebitten

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The 3.5 Ecoboost is a torque management engine. It doesn't make more power even if you remove the air filter altogether.

A bit of oversimplification, but the throttle-pedal position is converted by the pcm into a request for a specific value of torque. That value is not increased or decreased by the variances between air filters discussed. All of them are sufficient for the stock intake and factory pcm calibration.
 

Samson16

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The 3.5 Ecoboost is a torque management engine. It doesn't make more power even if you remove the air filter altogether.

A bit of oversimplification, but the throttle-pedal position is converted by the pcm into a request for a specific value of torque. That value is not increased or decreased by the variances between air filters discussed. All of them are sufficient for the stock intake and factory pcm calibration.
Is the hesitation that occurs when I step on it right when it's going from first to third and the traffic is closing on me fast caused by this pondering of my freakin request?? lol
 

Snakebitten

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It most certainly IS, in a way.
In my opinion, the Powerboost offers too many ways to skin the cat when you present a torque request that is right at the threshold of keeping or removing electric torque off the table.

The trick is to stay far enough below that threshold, or go over it altogether.

There's a technique that if it's practiced for just a few minutes, it works 99% of the time and it does a remarkable job of removing that stumble from electric/ICE & skipping 2nd gear.
In fact, if you focus on JUST getting the truck to use second gear, the electric/ICE transition doesn't even come into the equation.

Go to some large vacant area where you can repeat 0-25mph over and over unimpeded.
Come to a complete stop. Since it's a Powerboost, that's an ICE-off condition in Driver Select Normal Mode.

Imagine taking off at a green light, but you are going to accelerate at a rate that lights ICE, but not fast enough to bump into the car that might be in front of you.
So what you are practicing is being as smooooth as possible with the throttle, but aggressive enough to NOT be EV.

The second thing you are practicing is that you are NOT letting up on increasing the throttle until you see the tranny hit second gear. If it skips second gear, you stopped increasing throttle. You must continue to increase throttle at least until the tranny shifts into 2nd.

For early success, be aggressive enough at accelerating that it's easy to not be EV, nor skip second.
Then keep reducing the rate at which you are increasing throttle.
Within a few tries I believe you will find out that you can very smoooothly leave a traffic stop and not experience the EV stumble, nor skip second gear, yet not be driving aggressive in the least.

If you get good at it, the whole drivability of the Powerboost feels much more refined. Polished even. And you might even feel different about the 10r80 altogether.
 

Samson16

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It most certainly IS, in a way.
In my opinion, the Powerboost offers too many ways to skin the cat when you present a torque request that is right at the threshold of keeping or removing electric torque off the table.

The trick is to stay far enough below that threshold, or go over it altogether.

There's a technique that if it's practiced for just a few minutes, it works 99% of the time and it does a remarkable job of removing that stumble from electric/ICE & skipping 2nd gear.
In fact, if you focus on JUST getting the truck to use second gear, the electric/ICE transition doesn't even come into the equation.

Go to some large vacant area where you can repeat 0-25mph over and over unimpeded.
Come to a complete stop. Since it's a Powerboost, that's an ICE-off condition in Driver Select Normal Mode.

Imagine taking off at a green light, but you are going to accelerate at a rate that lights ICE, but not fast enough to bump into the car that might be in front of you.
So what you are practicing is being as smooooth as possible with the throttle, but aggressive enough to NOT be EV.

The second thing you are practicing is that you are NOT letting up on increasing the throttle until you see the tranny hit second gear. If it skips second gear, you stopped increasing throttle. You must continue to increase throttle at least until the tranny shifts into 2nd.

For early success, be aggressive enough at accelerating that it's easy to not be EV, nor skip second.
Then keep reducing the rate at which you are increasing throttle.
Within a few tries I believe you will find out that you can very smoooothly leave a traffic stop and not experience the EV stumble, nor skip second gear, yet not be driving aggressive in the least.

If you get good at it, the whole drivability of the Powerboost feels much more refined. Polished even. And you might even feel different about the 10r80 altogether.
Great tip and well written sir.

Where I still get a bit frustrated is when turning right onto a busy road. I pull out and the ICE kicks on then I come off the accelerator just a bit while smoothly completing the turn...back on the gas and stumble-catch-go. I may have to Grandpa out into the road slow enough to perform the right turn while slowly accelerating and then hit it.

I have the straight off the line smoothness grooved into muscle memory just that turn.
To be clear I shouldn't have to work this hard to make the truck act properly, but I love it foibles and all :)
 

JExpedition07

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Is the hesitation that occurs when I step on it right when it's going from first to third and the traffic is closing on me fast caused by this pondering of my freakin request?? lol
It learns your driving style too, when I first got my truck if I floored it the thing was like “are you sure?” And I’d have to leave the pedal planted. Now it just downshifts and revs as soon as I put the pedal down.
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