Pro Power Onboard with Transfer Switch to Power House

[HammaMan]

to ensure my novice understanding is correct; I have an inlet setup with a interlock on my panel.
to get the ground fault to stop happening whenever I enable loads after transferring sources ; I could just disconnect the ground from the inlet wiring?

is this problematic if I decide to use my portable generator in the same fashion?

thanks in advance!

Portable generators are bonded, and your panel is also bonded. As such there's always current returning on both the neutral and the ground. Probably 9 in 10 home connections to portable generators run this way, if not more as even electrician installed receptacles pay no attention to the fact that portable generators run bonded. There's no reason to earth a generator over the structure's earthing which most of the time is superior to whatever someone will cobble together for a portable gen temp connection.

That connection can only be powered on when the main power coming into the panel is 'off' and connecting a generator completes all of the requisite wiring to make a safe connection to the structure. The truck's GFI system and the panel's properly installed GFI breakers will function as they should. Grounding and earth grounds confuse people who can't understand the goals of what's trying to be achieved. If you see someone suggest to earth the truck, they've got just enough understanding of things like someone suggesting drinking bleach would cure someone of a virus.

Depending on your setup, you may have to insulate the entire ground wire of that receptacle at the panel. If you do that, kill the power to that panel before proceeding. Manipulating bare copper in a live panel is about the only thing dumber than playing in a live panel to begin with. Also keep in mind that if metal conduit runs to the gen power in box, the ground may be still connected to it where the prongs are. You can ascertain if that's the case by measuring the resistance of opposing prongs to make sure there's no continuity post ground wire isolation.

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[Limitedlifestyle]

Portable generators are bonded, and your panel is also bonded. As such there's always current returning on both the neutral and the ground. Probably 9 in 10 home connections to portable generators run this way, if not more as even electrician installed receptacles pay no attention to the fact that portable generators run bonded. There's no reason to earth a generator over the structure's earthing which most of the time is superior to whatever someone will cobble together for a portable gen temp connection.

That connection can only be powered on when the main power coming into the panel is 'off' and connecting a generator completes all of the requisite wiring to make a safe connection to the structure. The truck's GFI system and the panel's properly installed GFI breakers will function as they should. Grounding and earth grounds confuse people who can't understand the goals of what's trying to be achieved. If you see someone suggest to earth the truck, they've got just enough understanding of things like someone suggesting drinking bleach would cure someone of a virus.

Depending on your setup, you may have to insulate the entire ground wire of that receptacle at the panel. If you do that, kill the power to that panel before proceeding. Manipulating bare copper in a live panel is about the only thing dumber than playing in a live panel to begin with. Also keep in mind that if metal conduit runs to the gen power in box, the ground may be still connected to it where the prongs are. You can ascertain if that's the case by measuring the resistance of opposing prongs to make sure there's no continuity post ground wire isolation.

Thanks for the help. I will try the above and report back!

 

[Hullguy]

Thanks for the help. I will try the above and report back!

You are setup for a conventional generator already. If you have a generator it’s more cost effective and safer to use it.
to use the Powerboost correctly, you need a neutral switching transfer switch. Isolating or removing the ground is against National Electrical Code. The bonding requirements for services have been required since the 1920s and are there to protect you, your family, and property from harm.
Im a licensed Master Electrician with close to 40 years of experience.

 

[Limitedlifestyle]

You are setup for a conventional generator already. If you have a generator it’s more cost effective and safer to use it.
to use the Powerboost correctly, you need a neutral switching transfer switch. Isolating or removing the ground is against National Electrical Code. The bonding requirements for services have been required since the 1920s and are there to protect you, your family, and property from harm.
Im a licensed Master Electrician with close to 40 years of experience.

Thanks for the advice!
I’m currently in central Florida, where any power outage is usually associated with weather not suitable to run a portable generator in. I also don’t like running the portable gen overnight while sleeping. However none of those concerns apply to the truck, in emergency situations. (Can run fine in the rain, wouldn’t worry about overnight use)

My issues with a transfer switch is that I would be moving the majority of my breakers to that panel. Whereas with the inlet I can just keep the water heater, stove, dryer, and AC breakers off.

is there large risk to removing the inlet ground as the truck and the breakers are grounded separately?

 

[Gulfstream]

And . . . Here . . . We . . . Go!!

 

[HammaMan]

is there large risk to removing the inlet ground as the truck and the breakers are grounded separately?

No. Anyone claiming it's a risk should very easily be able to provide you the exact scenario for which it's a risk. Bleach says it kills 99.9% of viruses and germs after all....

 

[SouthernGuy]

My issues with a transfer switch is that I would be moving the majority of my breakers to that panel.

Which means you would have 2 panels for you house. They might even be side-by-side, depending on where the Transfer Switch panel is mounted. Your original panel would still house the breakers for the water heater, stove, dryer and A/C. The other house circuits (in the Transfer Switch) would be powered from the OnBoard Power with the flip of a switch and the cranking of a truck (3 to 4 minutes).

 

[bfallert]

You are setup for a conventional generator already. If you have a generator it’s more cost effective and safer to use it.
to use the Powerboost correctly, you need a neutral switching transfer switch. Isolating or removing the ground is against National Electrical Code. The bonding requirements for services have been required since the 1920s and are there to protect you, your family, and property from harm.
Im a licensed Master Electrician with close to 40 years of experience.

As an electrician, can you provide the proper way to power a home using the PowerBoost vehicle when the home circuit panel is bonded? Specifically, how should the wiring be performed/modified?

 

[HammaMan]

As an electrician, can you provide the proper way to power a home using the PowerBoost vehicle when the home circuit panel is bonded? Specifically, how should the wiring be performed/modified?

You need a neutral-switching transfer switch that places the bond ahead of the switch itself. Other threads on the topic are full of information regarding this. There's the easy way of floating the generator ground, which despite scare tactics is both not to code, but safe, or hire an electrician who understands you need neutral switching due to GFI functionality of the truck (make sure it's part of the quote / payment that it operates to avoid spending 2-3k on something that doesn't work).

 

[Hullguy]

Thanks for the advice!
I’m currently in central Florida, where any power outage is usually associated with weather not suitable to run a portable generator in. I also don’t like running the portable gen overnight while sleeping. However none of those concerns apply to the truck, in emergency situations. (Can run fine in the rain, wouldn’t worry about overnight use)

My issues with a transfer switch is that I would be moving the majority of my breakers to that panel. Whereas with the inlet I can just keep the water heater, stove, dryer, and AC breakers off.

is there large risk to removing the inlet ground as the truck and the breakers are grounded separately?

Yes! There is an issue. You lose short circuit to ground protection. The utility ground has absolutely no connection to the Powerboost ground if you remove the trucks ground.
The transfer switch is doing the same exact thing as your interlock, isolating The circuits you want on from the ones you don’t.
If you want to use the truck the only correct way is with the neutral switching transfer switch.
You can trust the professional or you can trust the internet!?

As an electrician, can you provide the proper way to power a home using the PowerBoost vehicle when the home circuit panel is bonded? Specifically, how should the wiring be performed/modified?

The only safe way is through a neutral switching transfer switch.
if you “float” or remove the trucks ground there is absolutely no connection between the truck ground and the existing ground on your service or the ground provided by the utility at the transformer feeding your house.
If you float the existing ground or bond at your panel during an outage you have to go back in and replace it every time, killing the power to your house. What a pain in the ass!!!
for $1500 ball park purchase and install price why wouldn’t you want to just go and plug the truck in and throw a switch on the transfer switch and power the circuits you need?
You can trust the Professional or you can trust the internet!

 

[bfallert]

Yes! There is an issue. You lose short circuit to ground protection. The utility ground has absolutely no connection to the Powerboost ground if you remove the trucks ground.
The transfer switch is doing the same exact thing as your interlock, isolating The circuits you want on from the ones you don’t.
If you want to use the truck the only correct way is with the neutral switching transfer switch.
You can trust the professional or you can trust the internet!?

The only safe way is through a neutral switching transfer switch.
if you “float” or remove the trucks ground there is absolutely no connection between the truck ground and the existing ground on your service or the ground provided by the utility at the transformer feeding your house.
If you float the existing ground or bond at your panel during an outage you have to go back in and replace it every time, killing the power to your house. What a pain in the ass!!!
for $1500 ball park purchase and install price why wouldn’t you want to just go and plug the truck in and throw a switch on the transfer switch and power the circuits you need?
You can trust the Professional or you can trust the internet!

The use of the transfer switch is ultimately related to the question of how to wire the system in order for the PowerBoost truck to not go into fault. I have the neutral switching transfer switch installed and the necessary circuits moved over. However, since the instructions for the transfer switch note that the ground wire needs to be connected to the ground bar of the house circuit panel and the house circuit panel is bonded, the truck goes into fault when the transfer switch is activated. All of us in this situation are looking for a wiring method, while utilizing a neutral switching transfer panel, that would allow the ground wire from the truck side to stay connected.

 

[Yves]

There are 2x types of generator panels. One for bonded ground (this is what you need) and non bonded ground. The one for bonded ground as a triple breaker where the red, black and white (neutral) are connected. When you flip from your electrical provider to your Powerboost it removes the bond from your main panel, by isolating the generator panel from the main. My wife as an electrician in her family and as @Hullguy said this is the way to do the connection.

 

[Hullguy]

The use of the transfer switch is ultimately related to the question of how to wire the system in order for the PowerBoost truck to not go into fault. I have the neutral switching transfer switch installed and the necessary circuits moved over. However, since the instructions for the transfer switch note that the ground wire needs to be connected to the ground bar of the house circuit panel and the house circuit panel is bonded, the truck goes into fault when the transfer switch is activated. All of us in this situation are looking for a wiring method, while utilizing a neutral switching transfer panel, that would allow the ground wire from the truck side to stay connected.

The neutral switching transfer switch changes the neutral bond from the panel over to the trucks neutral bond. I found it’s a sequence of operations to power the house with the Powerboost. Switch the transfer switch first and then connect and turn on the Powerboost

 

[SouthernGuy]

Switch the transfer switch first and then connect and turn on the Powerboost

If you are using the Generac 6852 Transfer Switch, you will need power (Utility or PowerBoost) to make that switch, unless you remove the front panel and switch it manually. The solenoid connected to the rocker switch needs 120V in order to work.

I connect the truck to the inlet box, turn on OnBoard Power then operate the rocker switch. No ground fault from the truck.

 

[Hullguy]

If you are using the Generac 6852 Transfer Switch, you will need power (Utility or PowerBoost) to make that switch, unless you remove the front panel and switch it manually. The solenoid connected to the rocker switch needs 120V in order to work.

I connect the truck to the inlet box, turn on OnBoard Power then operate the rocker switch. No ground fault from the truck.

You are correct. Brain fart

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