Pro Power Onboard with Transfer Switch to Power House

[bfallert]

Hello all,
I know the topic of using the PowerBoost system to power a home during an outage has been discussed at length, but I have been unable to find a definitive solution as to how the wiring should be done utilizing a transfer switch. Here is my situation: I am attempting to use the F150 PowerBoost with the Generac 6582 transfer switch to power my home. The house circuit panel is a bonded neutral panel. Per Generac's instructions, I have moved the essential circuits over to the transfer switch by connecting the circuit hot leg of the transfer switch breaker to the hot leg of the house circuit. Each of the transfer switch neutrals has been connected to the neutral wire of each individual house circuit. All main wiring has been done correctly per Generac's instructions. However, when transferring power, the vehicle continues to fault. I have tried moving each circuits ground wire over to the transfer switch - no joy. I have tried using a separate ground rod for the transfer switch ground - no luck. In the end, disconnecting the ground wire in the extension cord input box allowed the PowerBoost system to work as intended. Understanding that is is not optimal, I have yet to find any information as to how the wiring should specifically be done in order to leave the ground wire connected. If anyone has the information needed to wire this transfer switch correctly in conjunction with a bonded neutral house circuit panel, I would be most appreciative. Thanks

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[DcnPat]

Is the neutral of each circuit in the transfer box still connected to the main box when the transfer switch is on?

 

[HammaMan]

PB will not power a bonded panel. All of the other threads cover this topic.

 

[bfallert]

Is the neutral of each circuit in the transfer box still connected to the main box when the transfer switch is on?

No sir. the neutrals of the transfer switch are connected to each individual house circuits neutral wire. In other words, I disconnected each house circuits neutral wire from the house panel and used a wire nut to attach each neutral in the house panel to a neutral from the transfer switch. Accordingly, Generac instructs you to do this in order to maintain neutral separation when running power off the vehicle. Even though the neutral switching occurs correctly, the vehicle is still recognizing the neutral bonding of the house panel and going into fault.

 

[Gros Ventre]

Well... You have a neutral-ground bond somewhere in there. Possibly one of your circuits has such a bond out in the house somewhere. Try opening all emergency panel breakers and see if the truck trips, if it doesn't then shut the breakers one at a time until a trip occurs, then reopen that breaker and continue with remaining breakers in case another circuit has a bond. I recognize that these breakers don't open the neutral, but it appears there is faulty wiring somewhere. Another thought, does the emergency panel have a "green screw" where the neutral ground bond occurs? If so you can remove it (check local codes) and the bond will only occur out in the truck.

 

[MattM]

Hello all,
I know the topic of using the PowerBoost system to power a home during an outage has been discussed at length, but I have been unable to find a definitive solution as to how the wiring should be done utilizing a transfer switch. Here is my situation: I am attempting to use the F150 PowerBoost with the Generac 6582 transfer switch to power my home. The house circuit panel is a bonded neutral panel. Per Generac's instructions, I have moved the essential circuits over to the transfer switch by connecting the circuit hot leg of the transfer switch breaker to the hot leg of the house circuit. Each of the transfer switch neutrals has been connected to the neutral wire of each individual house circuit. All main wiring has been done correctly per Generac's instructions. However, when transferring power, the vehicle continues to fault. I have tried moving each circuits ground wire over to the transfer switch - no joy. I have tried using a separate ground rod for the transfer switch ground - no luck. In the end, disconnecting the ground wire in the extension cord input box allowed the PowerBoost system to work as intended. Understanding that is is not optimal, I have yet to find any information as to how the wiring should specifically be done in order to leave the ground wire connected. If anyone has the information needed to wire this transfer switch correctly in conjunction with a bonded neutral house circuit panel, I would be most appreciative. Thanks

Had the same issue and after back and forth with Generac rep it was determined that I needed two separate ground rods. As Ling as you share a common ground you get the fault.

 

[Gros Ventre]

Be interested in how it works... Electrically, two grounding rods should be the same as a common ground. Perhaps if you separate them far enough... but the earth is still a pretty good conductor...

 

[bfallert]

Had the same issue and after back and forth with Generac rep it was determined that I needed two separate ground rods. As Ling as you share a common ground you get the fault.

Please explain how two separate ground rods were to be accomplished and to what did each ground rod attach? Also, did you implement this solution and get it working correctly? Thanks

 

[SouthernGuy]

How did you connect the cable from your truck into the transfer switch?
You will need to run 10/3 with ground all the way in.

A 2nd ground rod is not necessary. All of the grounds should eventually connect back to the existing ground rod.

My method of testing the transfer switch by itself was to make a short (10') run of 12/2 with ground from a breaker to a single gang outlet box. Not part of the house wiring, so I can be sure its isolated from everything else. It tested fine (got a ground fault to begin with but after resetting On-board power in the truck, everything was good). Made all of the other connections and checked breaker by breaker.

 

[bfallert]

How did you connect the cable from your truck into the transfer switch?
You will need to run 10/3 with ground all the way in.

A 2nd ground rod is not necessary. All of the grounds should eventually connect back to the existing ground rod.

My method of testing the transfer switch by itself was to make a short (10') run of 12/2 with ground from a breaker to a single gang outlet box. Not part of the house wiring, so I can be sure its isolated from everything else. It tested fine (got a ground fault to begin with but after resetting On-board power in the truck, everything was good). Made all of the other connections and checked breaker by breaker.

The Generac transfer switch kit came with the input box. The cable from the truck plugs into the input box. From there, I ran 8/3 w/ ground over to the transfer switch.

 

[Briansk12]

Hello all,
I know the topic of using the PowerBoost system to power a home during an outage has been discussed at length, but I have been unable to find a definitive solution as to how the wiring should be done utilizing a transfer switch. Here is my situation: I am attempting to use the F150 PowerBoost with the Generac 6582 transfer switch to power my home. The house circuit panel is a bonded neutral panel. Per Generac's instructions, I have moved the essential circuits over to the transfer switch by connecting the circuit hot leg of the transfer switch breaker to the hot leg of the house circuit. Each of the transfer switch neutrals has been connected to the neutral wire of each individual house circuit. All main wiring has been done correctly per Generac's instructions. However, when transferring power, the vehicle continues to fault. I have tried moving each circuits ground wire over to the transfer switch - no joy. I have tried using a separate ground rod for the transfer switch ground - no luck. In the end, disconnecting the ground wire in the extension cord input box allowed the PowerBoost system to work as intended. Understanding that is is not optimal, I have yet to find any information as to how the wiring should specifically be done in order to leave the ground wire connected. If anyone has the information needed to wire this transfer switch correctly in conjunction with a bonded neutral house circuit panel, I would be most appreciative. Thanks

Does it only trip when transferring? Have you simulated a power failure by turning power off to the main panel then switching the transfer switch and then start the PB generator. Mine will trip when switching back from generator to line power if both are on.

 

[bfallert]

Yes. When simulating a power outage, I have also flipped all the breakers in the transfer switch to the 'off' position. When the truck is brought online, it starts off fine. As soon as I flip any breaker on, the truck faults out. Resetting or restarting the truck does not make a difference.

 

[Gros Ventre]

Yes. When simulating a power outage, I have also flipped all the breakers in the transfer switch to the 'off' position. When the truck is brought online, it starts off fine. As soon as I flip any breaker on, the truck faults out. Resetting or restarting the truck does not make a difference.

This is odd. If all were wired correctly the trip should occur when the truck senses a second neutral-ground bond. Since the breaker (normally) only opens or shuts the hot wire there should be no second neutral-ground bond sensed when the breaker is shut. I.E. it was already present and the fact of shutting the breaker didn't change that. Since it occurs on all breakers implies to me that there is a wiring problem in the breaker box itself instead of out in an individual circuit.

 

[HammaMan]

Yes. When simulating a power outage, I have also flipped all the breakers in the transfer switch to the 'off' position. When the truck is brought online, it starts off fine. As soon as I flip any breaker on, the truck faults out. Resetting or restarting the truck does not make a difference.

That's due to half of the current returning to the truck via ground. With double bonding the current is always flowing back on both the ground and the neutral. The truck can see that current going out on the hot isn't returning on the neutral and trips. If you float the truck's ground at the panel (don't connect it) your wire maintains its ground protection and all will function properly.

It's not to code but it's safe. I've yet to see a current fault path indicating otherwise. The truck doesn't need an earthed ground.

 

[Limitedlifestyle]

That's due to half of the current returning to the truck via ground. With double bonding the current is always flowing back on both the ground and the neutral. The truck can see that current going out on the hot isn't returning on the neutral and trips. If you float the truck's ground at the panel (don't connect it) your wire maintains its ground protection and all will function properly.

It's not to code but it's safe. I've yet to see a current fault path indicating otherwise. The truck doesn't need an earthed ground.

to ensure my novice understanding is correct; I have an inlet setup with a interlock on my panel.
to get the ground fault to stop happening whenever I enable loads after transferring sources ; I could just disconnect the ground from the inlet wiring?

is this problematic if I decide to use my portable generator in the same fashion?

thanks in advance!

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