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Powerboost - 12V Battery Drain things to think about

RyanStroeder

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As someone who has been at war with his 21 powerboost and finally solved the issues related to battery drain (fingers crossed!). I wanted to share with others some things to consider if your truck is entering deep sleep, remote functions disabled, 12 V battery low warning, approach lighting disabled etc...

Check out @Snakebitten or @HammaMan posts for other ideas (both are great contributors to the community and I thank them)

Primary Battery (2021-2022): BAGM-48H6-760
Primary Battery (2023-2024): BAGM-94RH7-800
AUX Battery: BHAGM-AUX1-B

0. The new trucks draw, as per Ford documentation, between 25 and 50 mA when parked. Add onto that any remote connection or updates processes and you will come to the understanding that you simply cannot (without clever hacks like @HammaMa) leave the truck for long periods of time without battery drain occuring.

1. Look out for additional drain items. For example, a Blackvue 2 channel dashcam will pull almost 900mA when in Parking Mode. This will annihilate any battery if left for long.

2. The Powerboosts have two 12V batteries, the main AGM under the hood and the AUX under the rear seat. IF YOU COMPLAIN TO THE DEALER ABOUT BATTERY ISSUES THEY DO NOT TEST OR CHECK THE AUX BATTERY AS PER CORPORATE PROCEDURE. This can be a real problem, if Ford is replacing the AGM but the aux is also dead and in parallel, your problems will return. One suggestion is to isolate the batteries yourself and either test them or have them tested.

2b. As per item 2, this means that when you are charging the main battery (like a normal truck would be charged), you are charging two batteries in parallel. If you are seeing strange charging behaviour, please consider isolating the batteries and charging.

3. Learn how to charge/boost your AGM battery correctly with the BMS system. Terminal connections need to allow for current to pass through the BMS sensor on the main AGM battery for the system to detect current flow. This forum link is an excellent place

4. There are TSB's related to BMS incorrectly managed the battery and may possibly help. TSB 24-2442 comes to mind.

4b. Some members have had luck with charging the batteries fully then resetting the BMS immediately. see here

5. If charging is an issue and you don't drive often, do a search on this forum for the fan speed setting at 5 charging hack.

6. Consider a bluetooth battery voltage monitor (although these typically add another ~35mA draw to battery, food for thought) so that you can learn your truck's behaviour. A battery tender for extended parking should also be considered.

7. Consider an H7 (no mod needed) or an H8 (mod required) if it is suitable for you.

8. Finally, if you live in a warm climate and are comfortable with making some alterations, please reference the impressive work done here using an LFP battery.

9. Alternatively, you may consider upgrading the Ah on your AUX battery, similar to the great work done by @Tank here

I'd like to leave this post up to hopefully help someone else from going through 4 (i'm now on the fifth) AGM batteries and the frustration associated. If anyone has additional clarifications items or corrections, I am more than happy to edit his post once it's up.

Thank you
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Gros Ventre

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Alternatively, you could split for a non-Ford battery, give it a good wetting down charge, and be trouble free. I did that on my 21 four months after delivery. Not a peep out of the system since across three, and near four, Wyoming winters.
 
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RyanStroeder

RyanStroeder

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Alternatively, you could split for a non-Ford battery, give it a good wetting down charge, and be trouble free. I did that on my 21 four months after delivery. Not a peep out of the system since across three, and near four, Wyoming winters.
Thanks Gros, which battery are you referring to Main or AUX? Can you please provide part numbers. Cheers,
 

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Gros Ventre

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Thanks Gros, which battery are you referring to Main or AUX? Can you please provide part numbers. Cheers,
NAPA 9894R. The main battery. I wasn't then smart enough to realize maybe I should look at the aux battery. But, I've had no issues since so I suppose the aux doesn't present the same issues... :) I was on the road for that Thanksgiving family travels. Got some wierd things pop up, so pulled into the nearest NAPA (I'm a NAPA kind of guy :) ) and just got what their catalog listed. Once home did a watering down charge (low rate long term charge) and that has been it.
 
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hatallica

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Thanks @RyanStroeder - this is a pretty decent summary.

Is fan=5 still a thing? I understood that this was remedied at some point in 2024. I do not observe any changes via OBDLink MX+.
 
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RyanStroeder

RyanStroeder

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Thanks @RyanStroeder - this is a pretty decent summary.

Is fan=5 still a thing? I understood that this was remedied at some point in 2024. I do not observe any changes via OBDLink MX+.
I am open to being corrected and am running on information from last year. If anyone can confirm/deny, I will update as needed. thanks!
 

mb1983

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Currently, at least in my truck, Fan at 4 or above provides the increased charging voltage.
 

Snakebitten

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I am open to being corrected and am running on information from last year. If anyone can confirm/deny, I will update as needed. thanks!
Definitely still works on 2022 Powerboost with all software updates applied. Ford has NOT gimped the DC/DC converter battery charging hack yet.
 

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gnikdaor

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The fan speed 5 hack worked for me...... for about a month. Now the f*%^ing "battery saver mode" a$$hole is back, AGAIN! Even with the truck being driven almost daily. With at least one or two longer drives per week mixed in.
As much as I hate to buy a new aftermarket battery for a new 78K truck, I can see I will have to if I want to get rid of that battery saver bull$hit. As many on here can attest, the factory batteries are pure garbage. ANY aftermarket branded battery seems to be the fix, as most that have done it have reported success.
 

Eighthtry

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Reading this stuff continues my misunderstanding of technology. Powerboost seeems amazing technology, in theory. Why would someone want a PB if they need to re-engineer Ford's work? Why would Ford not pick up on this as a solution? Why would Ford not understand that a large number of its customers only use their F150s on a part time basis (such as me)?

Guys like RyanStroeder are a godsend to those who have innocently bought a PB and desperately need the truck to NOT spend months in the shop.

I bought a 5.0 because I do not drive it everyday. It would scare me to death to park a powerboost in the garage (no parking is a non-starter). I know that I have risk factors with other lithium products in the garage, but think they are more manageable when compared with a bunch of little lithium batteries joined together to create a big lithium battery.

Now I just flashed my ....... Someone let me know why I should not think this way.
 

Snakebitten

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My Powerboost will be 3 years old in April.
For all the discussion regarding the low voltage battery, it was resolved with a $25 voltmeter and a $60 auxiliary battery.

I have zero regrets choosing the Powerboost with all of its amazing utility, vs the other drivetrain choices.
 

Davexxxx

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BLoflin

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I have '22 PB KR since Feb 22, but in Central TX so we don't have really bad cold. I have the ORIGINAL BATTERY, still. I had maybe 2 times in the first 1-2 years of "Low Battery". Retired, so I don't necessarily drive it everyday. And some days, just some short errands runs. But also longer trips, occasionally (like to Colo and back).

Anyway, original battery, as I said. No issues in the last 12-18 months, i.e. since the OTA "fix" was installed that was supposed to help this area of the system.

But since I just jinxed myself (and I am right now at 36 months on it), I'm sure I'll be shopping soon!
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