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FirstFord

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What is your LV (12V) SOC?
If it's low enough, you don't need the fan speed 5 hack to keep the DC/DC converter above 12.7V.

And 193F is still a fully warmed up transmission, especially if you have cool/cold ambients and your engine coolant temps are down around that temp too.
SOC was 88%, which I thought was plenty, considering... (and why I was surprised at the 14.5 V reading).

I thought that I had read in several posts that Ford instructions were to check fluid level at 206 degrees. However, I agree with your statement (and yes it has been cool and engine temp was <200). I guess Ford is not accounting for such things in their specifications...?
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Samson16

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Did you say you have a non PB truck? If so I would think you have either 14.5V Alternator output while the engine is running or the AGM Voltage level with the engine off. The PB has a DC/DC convertor in place of an alternator and the changing strategy it employs is not ideal.
 

FirstFord

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Did you say you have a non PB truck? If so I would think you have either 14.5V Alternator output while the engine is running or the AGM Voltage level with the engine off. The PB has a DC/DC convertor in place of an alternator and the changing strategy it employs is not ideal.
Correct - I have a EB, which is why I wondered if the "hack" was actually for PBs.

Your explanation regarding the differences in alternators and charging strategies makes a lot of sense.

So.... the "hack" is exclusive to PBs?
 
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Samson16

Samson16

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So.... the "hack" is exclusive to PBs?
I can’t say for sure. My only 14gen experience is with the PB, but I think so. PB owners with weak batteries just yearn for a nice strong 14.5V and fan5 gives it to us lol. If I could simulate step 5 without the air blowing at me that would be nice ?
 

HammaMan

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I can’t say for sure. My only 14gen experience is with the PB, but I think so. PB owners with weak batteries just yearn for a nice strong 14.5V and fan5 gives it to us lol. If I could simulate step 5 without the air blowing at me that would be nice ?
It was working in my mach-e which has a 220a DC-DC in it as well, but ford seems to have changed the BMS strategy in them to be more aggressive as well as turning on if it detects a 12v load to keep the battery charged. There's zero backup key options on the car and people get quite pissed if they have to revert to cumbersome and time consuming process of the 'backup method' which involves several 4 letter words and some disassembly of the vehicle.
 

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fordtruckman2003

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There's zero backup key options on the car and people get quite pissed if they have to revert to cumbersome and time consuming process of the 'backup method' which involves several 4 letter words and some disassembly of the vehicle.
There is no key or fob hole? ?
 

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There is no key or fob hole? ?
No, all exterior doors are also 100% electronic. Even interior doors are electronic, but the handle will manually open it. I believe the back seat doors are 100% electric though. They have pull back levers, but only on full pull will it manually open the front. The first little bit of the pull electrically opens it. The rear handles are disabled entirely from the interior if the window lock button is pushed. It shuts off both rear windows and rear door handles. The doors do have small capacitors in them in the event of a 12v breaking collision that the release will still operate for a short time.
 
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Samson16

Samson16

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Well, I found some time and figured out how to import files from the forum, change the extension, and place them in the correct folder. Now I just need to move the “furniture” around to my liking.

Ford F-150 OBDLinkMX+ IMG_2208
 
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Samson16

Samson16

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Page 2

Ford F-150 OBDLinkMX+ IMG_2209
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