My 1.5 months old 2023 PowerBoost is dead

[scho7623]

I just pick this 2023 F-150 Lariat PowerBoost in mid April. It currently has about 4800 miles on it.

Last Thursday, the truck was in a Ford dealership service department for an oil and oil filter change. I also asked to do a diagnose on the battery, because I'd sometime see the "Low 12V battery" and goes away, even after a long 2~3 hours drive. A few electronics didn't seem to work, for example, the passenger side door handle lock/unlock didn't work. I read a few post about it, and it seemed like the battery state of charge was low, and the truck just shuts down non-essential features like passenger side door handle lock/unlock.

After the service, the technician told me the battery is normal, and just make sure to drive everyday to keep it charged. I followed the technician's advice and drove the truck everyday. Then this morning, the truck stopped and dead. I stepped on the brake then pushed the engine start button, and immediately, I felt a push to the brake, and the truck won't start up. I'd normally see the "READY" light on the dash, but not this time. Then I'd see all sorts of warning messages including "Park Brake Fault Service Now", "Stop Safely Now", "Service AdvanceTrac", etc. The "BRAKE" light was flashing as well.

At first, I thought it was a bad battery and I just needed a jump start. So I connected the jump cable to my battery and connected to another truck, let it run for about 5 minutes. I got on my driver's seat, stepped on the brake, and pushed the engine start button. Nothing. It wasn't the battery issue.

Now I'm just stuck with this dead truck on a Memorial day. I called the Ford dealership, I couldn't get a hold of any technicians to tell me what to do. I was told someone will be calling me, but that was already 6 hours ago.

I'd have never expected something would break for a brand new truck. This is very frustrating. Does anyone have any clue why I might be having this issue?

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[Jesse-Infotainment]

What is your vin? So I can look at what codes you have

 

[scho7623]

What is your vin? So I can look at what codes you have

Hi Jesse, I sent you a DM.

 

[Viper]

Check all fuses to be seated properly, lot's of people have had loose fuses and they cause all kinds of weird problems. I found several loose in my new truck.

 

[scho7623]

Check all fuses to be seated properly, lot's of people have had loose fuses and they cause all kinds of weird problems. I found several loose in my new truck.

Thanks, but I checked all fuses, and they all seem to be seated properly...

 

[Ford Motor Company]

I just pick this 2023 F-150 Lariat PowerBoost in mid April. It currently has about 4800 miles on it.

Last Thursday, the truck was in a Ford dealership service department for an oil and oil filter change. I also asked to do a diagnose on the battery, because I'd sometime see the "Low 12V battery" and goes away, even after a long 2~3 hours drive. A few electronics didn't seem to work, for example, the passenger side door handle lock/unlock didn't work. I read a few post about it, and it seemed like the battery state of charge was low, and the truck just shuts down non-essential features like passenger side door handle lock/unlock.

After the service, the technician told me the battery is normal, and just make sure to drive everyday to keep it charged. I followed the technician's advice and drove the truck everyday. Then this morning, the truck stopped and dead. I stepped on the brake then pushed the engine start button, and immediately, I felt a push to the brake, and the truck won't start up. I'd normally see the "READY" light on the dash, but not this time. Then I'd see all sorts of warning messages including "Park Brake Fault Service Now", "Stop Safely Now", "Service AdvanceTrac", etc. The "BRAKE" light was flashing as well.

At first, I thought it was a bad battery and I just needed a jump start. So I connected the jump cable to my battery and connected to another truck, let it run for about 5 minutes. I got on my driver's seat, stepped on the brake, and pushed the engine start button. Nothing. It wasn't the battery issue.

Now I'm just stuck with this dead truck on a Memorial day. I called the Ford dealership, I couldn't get a hold of any technicians to tell me what to do. I was told someone will be calling me, but that was already 6 hours ago.

I'd have never expected something would break for a brand new truck. This is very frustrating. Does anyone have any clue why I might be having this issue?

Hello! Send us a private message with your VIN and the name and location of your local Ford dealer. I’d be happy to see what I can do to assist with this concern. Thanks!

 

[dogboye]

Try putting the key-fob in the alternate start location. It is under the aft cupholder for the front-seat occupants. The procedure is outlined on page 194 of the owner's manual in the FordPass app. Maybe also on-line. My wife's 23 Powerboost "bricked" last Thursday. I found the procedure in the owner's manual, tried it, and it has been fine ever since.
I don't recall her's flashing all the mssages you mention. Nevertheless, it is worth a try.

I THINK the buttons on the key-fob are supposed to be facing the rear, but not sure if I remember correctly, or if it matters.

Actually, it is on page 240 of the pdf you can download from Ford. I'll try to get a screen capture and post. But it says the buttons should be facing the rear of the vehicle.

 

[scho7623]

Try putting the key-fob in the alternate start location. It is under the aft cupholder for the front-seat occupants. The procedure is outlined on page 194 of the owner's manual in the FordPass app. Maybe also on-line. My wife's 23 Powerboost "bricked" last Thursday. I found the procedure in the owner's manual, tried it, and it has been fine ever since.
I don't recall her's flashing all the mssages you mention. Nevertheless, it is worth a try.

I THINK the buttons on the key-fob are supposed to be facing the rear, but not sure if I remember correctly, or if it matters.

Actually, it is on page 240 of the pdf you can download from Ford. I'll try to get a screen capture and post. But it says the buttons should be facing the rear of the vehicle.

Thanks, I had to tow the truck to the nearest Ford dealership service center. I was told it will take 2~3 days for them to even take a look at my truck, because there are so many vehicles in their service center. I'm stuck at an RV park left with my travel trailer paying $65 a night... I wonder I can claim my auto insurance company to cover for the accommodation.

 

[Ffdlt371]

Did you ever check the 2nd 12v battery under the back seat? That one is mainly for accessories and stuff and explains your issues.

 

[dogboye]

Thanks, I had to tow the truck to the nearest Ford dealership service center. I was told it will take 2~3 days for them to even take a look at my truck, because there are so many vehicles in their service center. I'm stuck at an RV park left with my travel trailer paying $65 a night... I wonder I can claim my auto insurance company to cover for the accommodation.

Bummer. Sorry to hear that. Maybe the backup slot wouldn't have fixed it, anyway. Thought it was worth a shot.
Did you know about the slot, and already try it? Just curious. It seems to be a rather obscure procedure, hidden fairly deep in the bowels of the owner's manual.

 

[scho7623]

Bummer. Sorry to hear that. Maybe the backup slot wouldn't have fixed it, anyway. Thought it was worth a shot.
Did you know about the slot, and already try it? Just curious. It seems to be a rather obscure procedure, hidden fairly deep in the bowels of the owner's manual.

Yes I knew about the cup holder slot, and I think that only works when the key fob is in low battery. In my case, my key fob had no issue.

 

[scho7623]

Did you ever check the 2nd 12v battery under the back seat? That one is mainly for accessories and stuff and explains your issues.

I tried to jumpstart the 2nd 12v battery under the rear seat as well, but didn’t work.

 

[Ffdlt371]

Check the charge state of the 2nd battery

 

[Snakebitten]

It certainly seems as though this issue has recently affected more trucks. It could just be a statistical anomaly of forum posts, but you have to wonder.

And it's interesting that most of the time it dissappears as quickly as it popped up. Not really associated with any other issue, but rather out of the blue. (similar in that respect to the Bang & Olufsen sudden sound explosion)

Since it doesn't appear that Ford or any dealership technicians have discovered the culprit, we only know what we know.

I'm curious if killing all power to the 12V truck can do for it what killing power to the stereo system does for the runaway noise?

What changes from the moment the truck either won't start, or pops up the alert to stop the truck immediately, and a few minutes later when all returns to normal?

My Powerboost is one year old and has only had the alert once. Several months ago. It's so strange.

I have to believe that the alert itself, as well as the Ready light NOT lighting up, are both meaningful at the software coding level. In fact, the alert itself is penned by the software development team. It wouldn't exist otherwise. So there has to be folks at Ford that do know all the potential triggers for that alert. And I bet it's the same for the unlit Ready light.

The first thing I would do if my truck wouldn't start is read my PIDs and see what the current SOC for both the 12V and Hybrid batteries.
I would also verify if the DC/DC converter was in fact providing ample amps to the 12V system.
If those looked normal and I still can't get the ready light, I'm rebooting the whole truck. On the Powerboost that's a bit of a pain, but I would disconnect both batteries. There's no other way to do a complete soft reset to the 42 module ensemble that all participate together in the software dance.

 

[wrgrimes]

Can the 2nd 12v battery under the back seat be monitored with OBDLink MX+? What name?

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