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Likely totaled from this…

kieefer

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I was told once that insurance companies will total vehicles when the repair cost hits 75% of the bluebook value
I’ve read that too but talking with two different insurance agents they say that varies, can be low as 50%.
Both also told me that a totaled vehicle everybody looses, at least with a repair all parties gain something.

It’s been almost two weeks since mine was put in the shop and still no complete estimate. They did say being a 2025 all Ford Factory new parts will be used, anything older than two years salvaged parts can be used.

My frame also “diamonded”. Whole new bed is required and some minor damage to cab. Undercarriage I’m not sure of but he mentioned leaf springs.
Mine drove fine after the accident.
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BlueFowl

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It does seem a little ridiculous that a hit like that would cause so much damage. Do they not do "frame straightening" any longer on ladder frames?

I would look into what ramifications having a "salvage title" on a vehicle is when you go to sell it or trade it in. It may seem attractive financially now, but the truck will be worth significantly less at that point.
The trade off is that you get the cash now from insurance you would lose when trading it in. If insurance is going to give him $32k (arbitrary number) and let him buy it back for $5k then he has to determine if the $27k difference is worth it after paying off his loan (if he has one).

My dad had a brand new S10 he had paid cash for when it got flooded by Hurricane Floyd. Insurance totaled it and let him buy it back for like $3k. He drove it for 10 more years.
 

Brent@ANParts

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If you can purchase the vehicle from insurance and get it on a rebuilt title, it's absolutely far from worthless. Keep up posted but I would personally consider keeping it with a new bumper. Resale will be less, of course, but you can still drive and insure it just fine.
 

JayRay

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Insurance should give you a buyback offer when they tell you the amount you get from being totaled. It’s basically the value they were quoted for salvaging it. The advantage of doing the buyback is that the title never changes hands, so it is still a clean title. I just got done doing this with a Forester that took out a deer.

Insurance may only insure it for liability from that point on, but they’ve already done the payout for being totaled, so that makes sense.

One other thing to note. The buyback amount is negotiable. They really don’t want to have to mess with having it picked up, etc.

The primary question here is if you trust the frame to do what it is designed to do when it comes to protecting you in the next accident. A bent frame out of spec is more likely to fail at a critical time when your life or safety of other family members is on the line. I was fine doing it with my old Foster, as the frame was fine.
 

Chris GTO TT

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The trade off is that you get the cash now from insurance you would lose when trading it in. If insurance is going to give him $32k (arbitrary number) and let him buy it back for $5k then he has to determine if the $27k difference is worth it after paying off his loan (if he has one).

My dad had a brand new S10 he had paid cash for when it got flooded by Hurricane Floyd. Insurance totaled it and let him buy it back for like $3k. He drove it for 10 more years.
Yes but the buy back value is usually based on what the insurance company thinks they can get for it at auction. That value on something like this could be exceptionally high. For example 8 years ago my 07 explorer was totaled in a similar fashion. It had no damage to anything other than the back hatch and taillight, but it needed over $7k in work. My pay out was something like $9500, but the buy back was like $6500 because it was mechanically perfect. They knew they would get a lot of money for it on the salvage auction market because there were so many usable parts on it. It made it so the buyback didn't make sense. I would have had only $3k to try and have someone rebuild the taillight pocket to make it road legal again.
 

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xtraman122

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Yes but the buy back value is usually based on what the insurance company thinks they can get for it at auction. That value on something like this could be exceptionally high. For example 8 years ago my 07 explorer was totaled in a similar fashion. It had no damage to anything other than the back hatch and taillight, but it needed over $7k in work. My pay out was something like $9500, but the buy back was like $6500 because it was mechanically perfect. They knew they would get a lot of money for it on the salvage auction market because there were so many usable parts on it. It made it so the buyback didn't make sense. I would have had only $3k to try and have someone rebuild the taillight pocket to make it road legal again.
That’s the situation I expect to be in too, with the entire front of the truck in perfect condition along with the entire drivetrain, I’m sure it’s worth a decent amount still.

I spoke to Geico today who said the case had go to a supervisor to make the decision on totaling, it’s apparently right on the threshold of what they normally total something at so it needs to be reviewed by this supervisor to make the final call. No easy answer either way based on the initial data I guess so it’s going through this final review. At this point I think I’d rather just see it totaled and move on; this is going to be a month long repair between having to have the frame done at a dealer and then all the body work. I don’t want to deal with being without a car and juggling rentals for that long all to still end up with a car with a “major collision” and frame damage being on the carfax at the end.
 

crazywayne311

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First off. Glad you're safe OP. Sorry to hear about your truck.

also, that doesnt appear to be much damage. I'd definitely get another opinion. My dad has a 2021 XL supercab with 8' bed. he got rear ended far worse and they repaired his truck. like the workshop manual @Buyer2021 posted, they just replaced the rear section of the frame and called it good.

As others have said, if its totaled, buy it back, repair it and keep it (only if you plan to keep it long term or just wanna save some money)
 

roadPilot

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If you can purchase the vehicle from insurance and get it on a rebuilt title, it's absolutely far from worthless.
The only way turn a salvage title into a rebuilt title is to make the repairs, have the licensed mechanic complete the forms, submit them to the state (e.g., Dept of Transportation in your state), have the state inspect it and, if everything is good, get the rebuilt title. That's the way it works in MI, anyway.

My best friend has spent the better part of 25 years buying late model salvage vehicles from auction (usually only months or 1-2 years old with very low miles), repairing them, getting the rebuilt title, and selling them (fully disclosed, of course). It's not as easy as you think UNLESS you are every experienced in all aspects of auto repair or have people who are.

I've lost count the number of times I've seen them cut two vehicles in half (one with a good front, one with a good rear) and put them together. I've seen two mangled Chargers become one, and you can't even tell unless you REALLY look for it. This truck would be easy peasy, relatively speaking.

Also, keep in mind that many insurance companies won't insure a vehicle with a rebuilt title.
 

Porpoise Hork

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Top supplier " ArcelorMittal, which holds the crown as the world's largest steel producer. With operations spread across 60 countries, they're a go-to for various automakers, including Ford. What's crucial here is their focus on innovation—pushing the boundaries of steel strength while keeping weight down. "

Sounds like Chinesium to me. lol
 

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roadPilot

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Top supplier " ArcelorMittal, which holds the crown as the world's largest steel producer. With operations spread across 60 countries, they're a go-to for various automakers, including Ford. What's crucial here is their focus on innovation—pushing the boundaries of steel strength while keeping weight down. "

Sounds like Chinesium to me. lol
Based on what? Sounds like an ASSumption to me.
 
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xtraman122

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Finally got the call from Geico today, it’s totaled. They gave it a $34,215 valuation plus sales tax to give me a total payout of $36k. I’m happy with the payout so I’m just going to take it and roll it into a new 2025 or lightly used 2024.
 

erixgix

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I’m glad you got the answer you preferred @xtraman122
I would suggest asking them what the buyback amount is though to make an informed call.
But rather that plan to keep it, look to sell it as-is with disclose of course. The market for used trucks is very good and you mostly likely could more than make that back plus a healthy additional amount. Some people won’t care and look at it being less of it’s functional.
Will help you get some of the value back rather than a salvage flipper taking that’s difference as profit.
 
 







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