Kicker Key 200.4 Questions

[Riddick]

I'm very curious how this qualifies as "cleaner/more efficient"; which wire should be used, exactly?

I have not verified on truck but I'm assuming there is a 12v wire going from battery to power fuse box. This would technically be same as hooking directly up to the battery, at least I think? If this wire does not exist I apologize for misleading anyone.

I say cleaner because you don't see any of the wires. No right or wrong way but I prefer to have zero exposed wires and the shortest runs possible. Maybe it's my OCD but I don't like additional wires coming off the battery.

Why is everyone running their ground to the battery vs. grounding it inside the cab close to the amp?

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[EcoBeastCA]

I have not verified on truck...I'm assuming...at least I think?

Yeah that's what I figured.

I say cleaner because you don't see any of the wires.

Are you driving with your hood open all the time or something?

No right or wrong way

There is most definitely a wrong way.

I prefer to have zero exposed wires and the shortest runs possible. Maybe it's my OCD but I don't like additional wires coming off the battery.

There's nothing wrong with liking neat wiring, but calling a wire off the battery "exposed" or "inefficient" is silly.

Why is everyone running their ground to the battery vs. grounding it inside the cab close to the amp?

I already explained why.

 

[Magician]

You can easily get that amp under either of the two front seats. When I was running one it was mounted on the rear of the cab. Most pro installers will advise you to NOT use any of the body grounds on a gen 14. I have seen some do it with no issues and other with so I would recommend you plan accordingly. FYI, My set up has 4 gauge power and ground from the battery to the amp rack on the rear cab wall. Power and ground are on the opposite side of the truck from the speaker harness. Ask questions as much as you need. Most are here to help you. Good luck.

 

[Jeremyray25]

Finally got around to the install yesterday and today. With the help of this forum, install wasn’t bad at all.

i ended up using the pac lphfd31 harness and some speed wire so that i could mount behind glove box area. I ran power and ground to the battery.

After the dsp tuning it sounds great.

I tell you with upgrading the door speakers, adding sound dampening in doors, and door block off plates, I’m very happy with this setup. Huge improvement over the factory non b/o system.

 

[ThumperF150]

OK, I did a similar installation. I just finished it today. I typed it all up, but then I lost it so now I’m dictating this please excuse any problems. I used kicker key 200.4 amp mounted at the top of the dash behind the radio just under the access panels so it’s easily accessible. I used kicker KSS 670 door speakers and tweeters. I use the kicker 51 HS 10 sub under the passenger seat. I use a custom wiring harness from Bruce Watson at hush car Audio when I was installing the door speakers, I went ahead and added sound dead material And block off plates from sound good stereo. I also used 42 mm Twitter mounts from sound good stereo. ran 10 gauge wire and three 12 gauge wires from the battery through the passenger side Gromit into the cab. The ground wire goes to a distribution block so both amp and sub are connected to that distribution block the amp and the sub have their own dedicated 12 gauge powerline to the battery each powerline has its own 15 amp fuse put everything together today and ran the auto tune set up from the amplifier. it for sure sounds much better than it did before I ran that auto tune , additionally on my 2024 I use the auto start wires connected to fuse number 30. That’s the only fuse I could find that is switched fuse. People use fuse 23 for earlier models On my truck, fuse 23 is constantly hot on my truck Which is a 2024.

Some photos attached.

Also I am having a custom panel 3D printed for that hole where the cord hanger used to go. I will mount my bass control knob on it.

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