Just ordered this.

[Davexxxx]

https://shop.ford.com/configure/f15....PYZ...89S.SS5.CCAB.AWD.99D.50N.477.779.U34.]

Ordered it from Granger.

No one local would come close to touching their price.

I'm expecting (hoping?) this build yields a payload of 1650 ish, (Thanks EricR) as it's whole purpose is to pull and occasionally power, this.

https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/travel-trailers/surveyor-legend/252RBLE/4853

I think it should be a near perfect match.

My truck is way too old for Ford pass. How long before I can get signed up for that and get verification of scheduling, payload etc.?

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[discothan]

@Granger Ford is always on top of things. Just let them know you want to be in the loop as your F150 is being built/shipped etc etc.

 

[Samson16]

https://intech.com/rv/models/terra/
My payload is #1624 and plan on towing this.

 

[redline]

If you plan on towing why not max tow option? and tow mirrors?

I get the mirrors can be polarizing ...

 

[{tpc}]

Personally I'd opt for the max tow, not to say that it won't be capable without it though. I think you will find your tongue weight a bit north of 590, I'd estimate closer to 800. This is very similar to my trailer. Before I lightened up my passthrough storage area and did some rearranging, we were north of 1100 lbs. I think I'm right around 900 now? Ebbs and flows a bit depending on how I load the trailer or if the electric bikes are with us.

 

[Henfield]

The GVWR 6500lbs of that trailer is well within the capabilities of the truck and you'll probably have say 900lbs of payload left to fill up the truck.

 

[Davexxxx]

If you plan on towing why not max tow option? and tow mirrors?

I get the mirrors can be polarizing ...

As I understand it, max tow takes from payload and has an axle bolt shear problem, while increasing max trailer loads beyond where I already need to go.

As for the mirrors, I'll be getting a rear camera for the trailer anyway and the unit I've selected, has optional side view cams, for the same $250 it would take to add tow mirrors to my order. So, less mpg hit, easier in parking lots etc.

 

[Davexxxx]

Personally I'd opt for the max tow, not to say that it won't be capable without it though. I think you will find your tongue weight a bit north of 590, I'd estimate closer to 800. This is very similar to my trailer. Before I lightened up my passthrough storage area and did some rearranging, we were north of 1100 lbs. I think I'm right around 900 now? Ebbs and flows a bit depending on how I load the trailer or if the electric bikes are with us.

Thats why I've tried to eek out as much payload as I can for this build and stayed with the 18" wheels. For this model yr. 502a requires 20" which add something like 40lbs. plus tire weight, to curb weight, thus subtracting from payload..

And, as you can see from the floor plan, the trailer has ample opportunity for weight redistribution, with 2 lrg. storage areas, behind the rear wheels and 2 more, over them. There are CAT scales not far from here and I'll get a tongue weight scale to play around with things, in order to find optimal loading. I also think I have a bit of wiggle room in the GVR of the trailer. I just don't see us needing a literal, long ton, of stuff.

 

[{tpc}]

Thats why I've tried to eek out as much payload as I can for this build and stayed with the 18" wheels. For this model yr. 502a requires 20" which add something like 40lbs. plus tire weight, to curb weight, thus subtracting from payload..

And, as you can see from the floor plan, the trailer has ample opportunity for weight redistribution, with 2 lrg. storage areas, behind the rear wheels and 2 more, over them. There are CAT scales not far from here and I'll get a tongue weight scale to play around with things, in order to find optimal loading. I also think I have a bit of wiggle room in the GVR of the trailer. I just don't see us needing a literal, long ton, of stuff.

I said/say the exact same thing, but you never know. Things change. For instance, my trailer showed up with larger propane tanks, which is handy, but more weight. The 12v fridge is great, if you can be plugged into some sort of shore power. While a PB seems great for this, it just depends on situations. For us, we cannot park the trailer in the driveway, backyard or in front of the house, has to be on the opposite side of the street. We like to load up the night before, hitch in the morning and go. a regular 12v battery gets you about 6 hours. I need 2 of them to get to 12 hours, and that usually works out ok. But its more weight.

And the list grows. Lets get a nice grill! Weight. I want fancy beach chairs or regular chairs. Weight. I need a outdoor rug. Weight. We or going to be gone for 7 days, these closets in the bedroom can hold ALL of my clothes...I need choice. Weight.

Pots and pans? Weight. Bikes?...electric ones that weigh 75 lbs each? Weight. Oh don't forget the WDH, that comes off your payload as well.

If you saw what we brought to a camping trip, you would say its very little. But it all adds up. And I do my best to keep a lot of it off the tongue. Typically we have nothing at all in the bed, nothing in the backseat but us. Wait...I have a box with with my sewer hoses and stuff in the bed, but thats it.

I have 1853 lbs of payload. And I'm currently exploring replacing my bakflip and drop in liner with a roll up and a bedrug to save a little more on weight. I'm sure you will be fine, just have to get creative about it. We replaced a outdoor astroturf rug with one of those that the water can drain through, picked up some pounds. Removed a table and some camping chairs that we might use like once every 2 years. Had big 4x4s cut down to put under the stab jacks, replaced those with lynx levelers. Moved the grill from passthrough to inside pantry behind the wheels. Clothes hang in the closet in the rear bath while traveling. Bikes have bins and place in the middle of the trailer slightly behind the rear wheels if we bring them. Sure the truck bed would be easiest, but thats 150 of payload at least. Buy wood when you get there (though typically most campgrounds say no outside wood).

 

[Davexxxx]

I said/say the exact same thing, but you never know. Things change. For instance, my trailer showed up with larger propane tanks, which is handy, but more weight. The 12v fridge is great, if you can be plugged into some sort of shore power. While a PB seems great for this, it just depends on situations. For us, we cannot park the trailer in the driveway, backyard or in front of the house, has to be on the opposite side of the street. We like to load up the night before, hitch in the morning and go. a regular 12v battery gets you about 6 hours. I need 2 of them to get to 12 hours, and that usually works out ok. But its more weight.

And the list grows. Lets get a nice grill! Weight. I want fancy beach chairs or regular chairs. Weight. I need a outdoor rug. Weight. We or going to be gone for 7 days, these closets in the bedroom can hold ALL of my clothes...I need choice. Weight.

Pots and pans? Weight. Bikes?...electric ones that weigh 75 lbs each? Weight. Oh don't forget the WDH, that comes off your payload as well.

If you saw what we brought to a camping trip, you would say its very little. But it all adds up. And I do my best to keep a lot of it off the tongue. Typically we have nothing at all in the bed, nothing in the backseat but us. Wait...I have a box with with my sewer hoses and stuff in the bed, but thats it.

I have 1853 lbs of payload. And I'm currently exploring replacing my bakflip and drop in liner with a roll up and a bedrug to save a little more on weight. I'm sure you will be fine, just have to get creative about it. We replaced a outdoor astroturf rug with one of those that the water can drain through, picked up some pounds. Removed a table and some camping chairs that we might use like once every 2 years. Had big 4x4s cut down to put under the stab jacks, replaced those with lynx levelers. Moved the grill from passthrough to inside pantry behind the wheels. Clothes hang in the closet in the rear bath while traveling. Bikes have bins and place in the middle of the trailer slightly behind the rear wheels if we bring them. Sure the truck bed would be easiest, but thats 150 of payload at least. Buy wood when you get there (though typically most campgrounds say no outside wood).

I'm aware there will be experimentation required and perhaps some less than convenient choices, in order to stay in spec. which I intend to do.

The first wild card, will be the solar / LiFePo4 batt / inverter charger system, I plan to install. Minus panels and cabling, the batts and equipment will weigh ~220lbs. but will be under the bed, so aft of the tongue, where the factory set up for 2, much heavier lead acid batts. So, maybe not a complete wash but not a 1 to 1 weight add either.

The panels weight 26.5lbs. each and most will be in front of the wheels but I don't know exactly how many, until I have the trailer to measure.. 4, 200W minimum but I might be able to fit 6, allowing for a series parallel installation, while still leaving enough room for reasonable access for service and maintenance. I'll keep a running total of all added weight, so I'm not too surprised when I put in on the scales.

 

[Davexxxx]

I think there might be a thread for this. If so, please advise and I'll post it there.

Ordered on 4/3. Confirmation the same day.
Received production schedule 4/6, slated for 5/1.

The email has a button for tracking and the page comes up with the vehicle info populated but doesn't go anywhere when I hit the Accept and Track button.

It tries to load with the tracker on this site but its not ready yet, nor is the window sticker. Probably too soon. I'll try again later.

The email also has a button for FordPass which I haven't tried yet. I'd read it doesn't activate until you're in the truck.

 

[Buyer2021]

My truck is way too old for Ford pass. How long before I can get signed up for that and get verification of scheduling, payload etc.?

FordPass cannot be activated until you are sitting in your built truck to authorize it in the vehicle as well as on your phone. In any case, it does not provide scheduling or payload info.

You received a confirmation email direct from Ford when Granger submitted your order, correct (if not, contact Granger)? You'll receive an email direct from when your truck is first scheduled and assigned a VIN, that'll have a link for 'tracking progress' via Ford's website for your assigned VIN.

Congrats, IME working with Granger was nothing less than stellar, best vehicle buying experience ever.

EDIT - sorry, I was slowly typing when you made the above post; nope, you won't be able to view a window sticker until very shortly before build actually starts.

 

[SteveP150]

Thats why I've tried to eek out as much payload as I can for this build and stayed with the 18" wheels. For this model yr. 502a requires 20" which add something like 40lbs. plus tire weight, to curb weight, thus subtracting from payload..

Wheel weight shouldn't make payload worse because it's unsprung weight. Other than LT tires would help with heavy payloads and towing.

 

[Davexxxx]

Wheel weight shouldn't make payload worse because it's unsprung weight. Other than LT tires would help with heavy payloads and towing.

Ford defines payload as GVWR minus curb weight.

What ever is on the scale, counts.

 

[SteveP150]

Ford defines payload as GVWR minus curb weight.

What ever is on the scale, counts.

Fair enough, that's true from a legal/scale perspective. And adding weight in wheels has a small effect on power which is why it's in that payload calculation. But the PB has so much power, from a practical standpoint, you're not really going to notice except in MPG change over a long time.

From a real-life towing/physics perspective, you should worry much more about sprung weight in the bed and on the hitch. If I'm pushing up close to the max payload, a set of well-built wheels, heavy LT tires or all-terrains is going to make the truck safer. Less true if that same weight is in the bed or on the hitch.

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