Jumpseat swap, dumping the work surface for more storage - DIY how-to

[FerdBerfal]

Got my new '25 RCSB, so of course before the first bank payment is due it's time to start modifying it. The work surface just isn't that great, especially since ford kneecapped the swing angle of the table. So $200 later and a new seat is acquired from eBay.

Surprisingly the swap was super easy and only took an hour, including dropping bolts and working backwards. The tool list is short, and a swivel head ratchet isn't needed, but long handles made breaking torque easier. The 2", 3/4", and wobble extensions for the 1/4 ratchet saved the day, the more variants you have the better.

1) Unlatch the middle belt, a paperclip will unbuckle the belt from the seat.

2) Remove seat. 7 bolts (13mm) The seats have enough travel to reach all of them with only some effort. The passenger side rear is unique with 2 bolts, the lower being a real pain. Had to swap extension lengths to keep the bolt from extending too far and ramming the ratchet into the seat rail. Don't forget the 2 electrical plugs on the passenger side.

3) Next the whole seat just lifts out, preferably with a jerking and twisting motion to the back. Removing the headrest and locking the lower storage helps with maneuvering and handhold placement. My new seat came with new floor brackets, but no need swapping good parts.

4) Install is just the reverse with one caveat. Loosely install the 2 front bolts, then try for the lower passenger one. When you drop it into the abyss, just lift up on the back of the seat and it will fall out onto the passenger floor. I did ziptie the 2 connectors together to keep the work surface sensor plug from rattling around. No clue on factory torque so they all got about 2 grunts.

A super simple job, and the 1/4 extensions can be had for cheap from Tekton. No warning messages for the work surface, and the change in elbow height is slight. The storage is also felt carpeted, which is a nice bonus.

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[Davidwnuc]

Good write up.
nice work

 

[Boen]

I bet you there’s a lot of guys out there that would like to have the work surface that you took out

 

[RCSB]

I despise the work station in mine. I have no use for it and even if I did it doesn’t rotate far enough toward you. There is no place to lay my phone and I have less storage space. Also it’s too high to comfortably rest your arm.

 

[Bucknut22]

I despise the work station in mine. I have no use for it and even if I did it doesn’t rotate far enough toward you. There is no place to lay my phone and I have less storage space. Also it’s too high to comfortably rest your arm.

This 100%. I regret it. I have a 23 tremor with center console and the work surface is the only thing on my order I wish I hadn't done.

 

[McStabby]

I use my work surface almost every day. It's perfect for my laptop data entries while I have my morning coffee on the jobsite.

 

[ThumperF150]

I think it has been mentioned here... but.... I THINK one plug is for passenger detection/seat belt use detection. My dash stays quiet without a passenger in that spot but when my bride rides there it lights up red on my instrument cluster and then green once she buckles up. I THINK the other plug tells the safety nannies if my work surface is deployed or not. Did your new console not come with a plug at all?

Im interested because I'm thinking about possibly making the same swap.

 

[Henfield]

Sticky potential

 

[ThumperF150]

Sticky potential

As a sticky it could also be a centralized location for folks wanting to trade consoles.

 

[jimhodell]

Got my new '25 RCSB, so of course before the first bank payment is due it's time to start modifying it. The work surface just isn't that great, especially since ford kneecapped the swing angle of the table. So $200 later and a new seat is acquired from eBay.

Surprisingly the swap was super easy and only took an hour, including dropping bolts and working backwards. The tool list is short, and a swivel head ratchet isn't needed, but long handles made breaking torque easier. The 2", 3/4", and wobble extensions for the 1/4 ratchet saved the day, the more variants you have the better.

1) Unlatch the middle belt, a paperclip will unbuckle the belt from the seat.

2) Remove seat. 7 bolts (13mm) The seats have enough travel to reach all of them with only some effort. The passenger side rear is unique with 2 bolts, the lower being a real pain. Had to swap extension lengths to keep the bolt from extending too far and ramming the ratchet into the seat rail. Don't forget the 2 electrical plugs on the passenger side.

3) Next the whole seat just lifts out, preferably with a jerking and twisting motion to the back. Removing the headrest and locking the lower storage helps with maneuvering and handhold placement. My new seat came with new floor brackets, but no need swapping good parts.

4) Install is just the reverse with one caveat. Loosely install the 2 front bolts, then try for the lower passenger one. When you drop it into the abyss, just lift up on the back of the seat and it will fall out onto the passenger floor. I did ziptie the 2 connectors together to keep the work surface sensor plug from rattling around. No clue on factory torque so they all got about 2 grunts.

A super simple job, and the 1/4 extensions can be had for cheap from Tekton. No warning messages for the work surface, and the change in elbow height is slight. The storage is also felt carpeted, which is a nice bonus.

I love it as I did the same thing and now it's sits in the shed still in the plastic.

 

[FerdBerfal]

I think it has been mentioned here... but.... I THINK one plug is for passenger detection/seat belt use detection. My dash stays quiet without a passenger in that spot but when my bride rides there it lights up red on my instrument cluster and then green once she buckles up. I THINK the other plug tells the safety nannies if my work surface is deployed or not. Did your new console not come with a plug at all?

Im interested because I'm thinking about possibly making the same swap.

Jump seat came with the seat buckle sensor plug, and you are right the other plug is for the work surface deployed.

 

[chava0191]

mine has the “work” desk too. do any of yall find it hard to fold it down when youre seated in the drivers seat. it feels very heavy to push it down.

 

[ThumperF150]

mine has the “work” desk too. do any of yall find it hard to fold it down when youre seated in the drivers seat. it feels very heavy to push it down.

YES! It is very poorly designed in that you need to push the lever but pull on the seat. With practice it gets easier but overall I think it is very awkward. A nice, strong looped strap that could have acted as the release and the pull loop/handle would have been better and probably cheaper.

 

[FerdBerfal]

I forgot a step, obviously. Why stop a project when it's done? Can't be driving around with an un-lockable seat bottom.

Tools needed: Torx T20, T50, trim tool, and motivation.
I struggled with adding the upper glove box for like 2 hrs, this may not happen for a few days days.

 

[Ranger621]

I despise the work station in mine. I have no use for it and even if I did it doesn’t rotate far enough toward you. There is no place to lay my phone and I have less storage space. Also it’s too high to comfortably rest your arm.

Why did you buy a truck with it if you don't want it?

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