Man that happens. It will go back togetherSuccess but at a cost.
Can you buy this part or try repairing with plastic bonder
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I think I have a few of those laying around also. Message me but youre ok to put it back together.
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Man that happens. It will go back togetherSuccess but at a cost.
Can you buy this part or try repairing with plastic bonder
![]()
No he can put the red part back in. its not so broken it wont go back togetherThat’s good news. Those pins will line up right without it?
I never even clicked on the pic. Out to dinner with the lady and it looked like the side of it was broke. Looks like he just broke the tab off that you grab to pull it out. I’d agree with you then that’s no big deal at all.No he can put the red part back in. its not so broken it wont go back together
Mine snapped also. they are pretty delicate. But all it is is a lock.
The red witht eh blue on top wil be totally fine
No he can put the red part back in. its not so broken it wont go back together
Mine snapped also. they are pretty delicate. But all it is is a lock.
The red witht eh blue on top wil be totally fine
I have not broken or damaged only this.I never even clicked on the pic. Out to dinner with the lady and it looked like the side of it was broke. Looks like he just broke the tab off that you grab to pull it out. I’d agree with you then that’s no big deal at all.
This was one of the toughest parts and why I was testing my coax. Did you watch @Tlusk7 s video? That was helpful. The other option is to bypass this connector altogether. You have to purchase the optional coax listed in his instructions plus the short gender changing coax as well, but then you don't have to deal with any connectors. If you wish to bypass let me know and I will pull it all together for you as the details are listed in multiple posts. You can use the run that you pull out of the green connector #2 to replace the one you are concerned about if you think it is messed up.I am really stuck here guys. I can not get the last coax cable into the connector under the hood.
I already might have twisted them as well and at this point I dont know if its gonna work either.
@Tlusk7 @jhwalker @Jesse-Infotainment
Need kind of URGENT HELP:
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Sorry, didn't check these posts first. Depending on what is broken off, these are locks for the pins. If it is just the posts that hold the piece in place you may be able to reuse it as the connector together (latched) will hold the locking plate in place.I have not broken or damaged only this.
I have even lost some parts down into the side fender as well ?. Had to call my wife and ask her to grab something from the fender emblem opening.
My fingers pain and as @Tlusk7 said in the video bloodied them as well.
I’ll share pics once all done.
Rest of the assembly and ForScan will be tomorrow.
I have both CCA and CBA on my doc but I do need to add CBA (short one between two main disconnects) to the parts list.This was one of the toughest parts and why I was testing my coax. Did you watch @Tlusk7 s video? That was helpful. The other option is to bypass this connector altogether. You have to purchase the optional coax listed in his instructions plus the short gender changing coax as well, but then you don't have to deal with any connectors. If you wish to bypass let me know and I will pull it all together for you as the details are listed in multiple posts. You can use the run that you pull out of the green connector #2 to replace the one you are concerned about if you think it is messed up.
Thanks @Tlusk7, I think people get confused on the bypass. @thunderf150 I think this would be the information you need. Let us know how you progress.I have both CCA and CBA on my doc but I do need to add CBA (short one between two main disconnects) to the parts list.
I think everyone struggles at this part. I was hoping my video would help once I figured it out and showed how I did it. I am doing another one possibly this weekend, we will see if my previous method makes it easier.
FRONT CAM JUMPER - ML3Z-10E929-CCA (FRONT CAM IS PREWIRED TO THE GRILL. THIS
JUMPER IS FROM THE GRILLE TO THE UNDERHOOD CONNECTOR C1591) $10 – THIS WOULD
ONLY BE NEEDED IF FOR SOME REASON YOU DO NOT HAVE THE PRE INSTALLED JUMPER
FROM THE HOOD LATCH TO C1591
C1591 TO C316 – ML3Z-10E929-CBA (THIS JUMPER GOES BETWEEN THE TWO UNDER HOOD
DRIVER SIDE CONNECTORS. THIS WOULD ONLY BE NEEDED IF FOR SOME REASON YOU DO NOT
HAVE THE PRE INSTALLED JUMPER BETWEEN THE TWO CONNECTORS.
I have both CCA and CBA on my doc but I do need to add CBA (short one between two main disconnects) to the parts list.
I think everyone struggles at this part. I was hoping my video would help once I figured it out and showed how I did it. I am doing another one possibly this weekend, we will see if my previous method makes it easier.
FRONT CAM JUMPER - ML3Z-10E929-CCA (FRONT CAM IS PREWIRED TO THE GRILL. THIS
JUMPER IS FROM THE GRILLE TO THE UNDERHOOD CONNECTOR C1591) $10 – THIS WOULD
ONLY BE NEEDED IF FOR SOME REASON YOU DO NOT HAVE THE PRE INSTALLED JUMPER
FROM THE HOOD LATCH TO C1591
C1591 TO C316 – ML3Z-10E929-CBA (THIS JUMPER GOES BETWEEN THE TWO UNDER HOOD
DRIVER SIDE CONNECTORS. THIS WOULD ONLY BE NEEDED IF FOR SOME REASON YOU DO NOT
HAVE THE PRE INSTALLED JUMPER BETWEEN THE TWO CONNECTORS.
It's been a success this morning !!Thanks @Tlusk7, I think people get confused on the bypass. @thunderf150 I think this would be the information you need. Let us know how you progress.
Have you made the apim changes? To add 360It's been a success this morning !!
360 is working but after the lane assist camera calibration, I cant seem to run the 360 calibrations. it just shows completed as I start and nothing changes.
any heads up? @Jesse-Infotainment @JHW @Tlusk7
Yes I did as per the sheet. But then changed them to factor the no bed camera.Have you made the apim changes? To add 360