How To Install Factory 360 Camera System

[Tlusk7]

Still working on it. I was waiting for the "CBA" jumper between C316 and C1591. I have a duplicate set of coax and was tired of messing with my installed version. I have two extra ML3Z-19G490-BC cameras and one ML3Z-19G490-BB camera. When I did some initial testing the "BB" camera connected in as the front camera resulted in a washed out picture (although it is a washed out rear view). I just got the jumper today and will test over the weekend. I should have enough parts to isolate the issue or at least give you and @Jesse-Infotainment more information about what I am seeing. I've been running wires for front radar, cargo camera, etc.

You can easily test the coax by taking the front cam coax at the IPMA and moving it to port 2 where the rear cam goes. If the front camera shows picture when in reverse then the coax is good. This DOES NOT verify the camera is the correct one though. If you can do this and it works, but not with the front and rear cam plugged in at the same time then there is a compatibility issue with the cameras. Coax either works or it doesn’t.

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[Tlusk7]

Sorry, this took awhile due to snow.

F150 Gen 14 Mirror Assembly



Replace Cap Bing Videos

There is a slot behind the glass to insert a longer screwdriver from the bottom outside corner and twist the screwdriver to pop the glass off.

Fig 1.

This shows the guides to get the screwdriver into the slot to twist. First time is a little rough because it sounds bad coming off.

Following the above video, remove the glass and the cap. Be careful of the wires (BLIS is very small and can be pulled out of the plug).

Fig 2.

The plug needs to clear these prongs to come off of the mirror, the tab at the top of the picture is where the wire hooks into.

Fig 3.

This gasket (?) comes off just be careful not to rip it.

You should only have to disassemble anything that prevents removing the wiring harness on either mirror.

However, you may have to take the piece off in Fig 4. Be careful of the long tab because it will break off easily. The one in the picture is broken.

Fig 4.

If the new mirror assembly has all options except the power fold (as in the XLT – Not sure if the XLT has position sensors for memory see Fig 5 and check for the sensor wires), I would take the harness out of the XLT version and add the wiring for the fold motor if everything is populated except for the power fold wires. If they are not there you will have to run the coax to continue to have memory mirrors. The coax will be difficult to retrofit unless you don’t care about the grommet in Fig 6. You should be able to take this wiring off of the power fold harness (Lariat) including depinning at the connector (Fig 6. Exterior Mirror connector C521/C622 Blue).

Fig 5.

Fig 6 Red shows Power fold connector and thread them through the grommet (Fig 6 Yellow).

Fig 6.

Depinning and adding to the connector (Fig 6. Blue) should be covered in other postings. Each connector can differ.

The most difficult part of removing/replacing the wiring harness is routing all of the connectors through the hinge hole but everything will fit if you bring one connector through at a time. The plug for the power fold goes right below the yellow circle (Fig 7. Red).

Fig 7.

Once you have added the wiring for the power fold, reinstall the wiring harness. Wiring goes out of the hinge hole (Fig 8. Red) and loops through the hook circled in yellow, then off to each component.

Fig 8.


Ensure everything is plugged in, all connectors are unique so no issues with what goes where.
The grommet goes in the hole in Fig 9 underneath the gasket.

Fig 9.

Install the caps with ones that support the camera/puddle light plastic component. Reinstall the glass.

Let me know if you have any questions.

All of this info has been added to my google drive. Thank you for providing this! This is what this forum is all about!

 

[Tlusk7]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3945557752...J0DgtLYQQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If you are looking for a front cam…. Here is a listing for $75.

 

[The Saffa]

Lot to touch on here, you don’t need to remove your rear camera for any reason.

Install badge and test? What does this mean?

You will not have to PMI the IPMA if you buy one from jesse. Yes you can revert back to original IPMA and read cam only.

There are no warranty concerns. If you run cargo cam and tap power from IPMA like I did you will be cutting into a harness. In order for a warranty concern they must prove the modification caused the issue. If the IPMA fails then yes they could easily say it’s because of your mods if they notice them, but these are factory parts and options. Ex. They can’t claim your motor isn’t under warranty because you did this.

As for question 1- i would imagine you can use the stock IPMA to test cameras if that’s what you want to try, by plugging cams into the rear camera port. But I don’t see why you would need to.

Thanks so much for the response. Will start looking for the mirrors and parts needed.

Apologies bad abbreviated wording didn't make much sense @Tlusk7 but I think you got most of what I was saying and answered my real questions.

I'll be starting to study your diagrams and will take it from there.

 

[thunderf150]

I am really stuck here guys. I can not get the last coax cable into the connector under the hood.
I already might have twisted them as well and at this point I dont know if its gonna work either.
@Tlusk7 @jhwalker @Jesse-Infotainment
Need kind of URGENT HELP:

 

[thunderf150]

 

[Tlusk7]

You have to pull that red plate up and unlatch it. It doesn’t come out, just pull on it with needle nose. The black piece should have came loose easy if you used needle nose to pull it. I covered both of these in my video.

 

[thunderf150]

You have to pull that red plate up and unlatch it. It doesn’t come out, just pull on it with needle nose. The black piece should have came loose easy if you used needle nose to pull it. I covered both of these in my video.

Will go and try right now,

I highly appreciate all your write-up and video, wouldn't have been here without those.

But the black piece was hell!! I have almost damaged it. You were right it won't just come out.

I'll be sharing the pics when done.

 

[Jesse-Infotainment]

I am really stuck here guys. I can not get the last coax cable into the connector under the hood.
I already might have twisted them as well and at this point I dont know if its gonna work either.
@Tlusk7 @jhwalker @Jesse-Infotainment
Need kind of URGENT HELP:

Looks like you’re almost there. I always pull the red out also. You can pull it all the way out of the connector

 

[thunderf150]

Looks like you’re almost there. I always pull the red out also. You can pull it all the way out of the connector

Is there ant tabs to be unlocked ? I cant take the red part out.

You have to pull that red plate up and unlatch it. It doesn’t come out, just pull on it with needle nose. The black piece should have came loose easy if you used needle nose to pull it. I covered both of these in my video.

Looks like you’re almost there. I always pull the red out also. You can pull it all the way out of the connector

 

[Jesse-Infotainment]

Is there ant tabs to be unlocked ? I cant take the red part out.

It comes out. I just pull up with a pick or whatever but you have to lift it at least to get the coax in

 

[Tlusk7]

Is there ant tabs to be unlocked ? I cant take the red part out.

No tabs. I didn’t pull mine all the way out I just pulled it and released it with needle nose

 

[thunderf150]

I am really stuck here guys. I can not get the last coax cable into the connector under the hood.
I already might have twisted them as well and at this point I dont know if its gonna work either.
@Tlusk7 @jhwalker @Jesse-Infotainment
Need kind of URGENT HELP:

It comes out. I just pull up with a pick or whatever but you have to lift it at least to get the coax in

No tabs. I didn’t pull mine all the way out I just pulled it and released it with needle nose

Will try again, thank you! For some reason, it won't move a bit, just like the back black part.
Man, my fingers and hand hurts at this time now.

 

[thunderf150]

Success but at a cost.

Can you buy this part or try repairing with plastic bonder

 

[Tlusk7]

Success but at a cost.

Can you buy this part or try repairing with plastic bonder

Oh my…. We all take know this is the cost of DIY. This is why I don’t remove it fully lol. I believe @Jesse-Infotainment does have the part number for the entire harness connector and pigtail. I would say you will have to buy that and carefully remove the red part and insert it into your truck connector. I would not advise attempting to plug that connector back together without that or you could cause more damage.

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