How To Install Factory 360 Camera System

[thunderf150]

Sorry, this took awhile due to snow.

F150 Gen 14 Mirror Assembly



Replace Cap Bing Videos

There is a slot behind the glass to insert a longer screwdriver from the bottom outside corner and twist the screwdriver to pop the glass off.

Fig 1.

This shows the guides to get the screwdriver into the slot to twist. First time is a little rough because it sounds bad coming off.

Following the above video, remove the glass and the cap. Be careful of the wires (BLIS is very small and can be pulled out of the plug).

Fig 2.

The plug needs to clear these prongs to come off of the mirror, the tab at the top of the picture is where the wire hooks into.

Fig 3.

This gasket (?) comes off just be careful not to rip it.

You should only have to disassemble anything that prevents removing the wiring harness on either mirror.

However, you may have to take the piece off in Fig 4. Be careful of the long tab because it will break off easily. The one in the picture is broken.

Fig 4.

If the new mirror assembly has all options except the power fold (as in the XLT – Not sure if the XLT has position sensors for memory see Fig 5 and check for the sensor wires), I would take the harness out of the XLT version and add the wiring for the fold motor if everything is populated except for the power fold wires. If they are not there you will have to run the coax to continue to have memory mirrors. The coax will be difficult to retrofit unless you don’t care about the grommet in Fig 6. You should be able to take this wiring off of the power fold harness (Lariat) including depinning at the connector (Fig 6. Exterior Mirror connector C521/C622 Blue).

Fig 5.

Fig 6 Red shows Power fold connector and thread them through the grommet (Fig 6 Yellow).

Fig 6.

Depinning and adding to the connector (Fig 6. Blue) should be covered in other postings. Each connector can differ.

The most difficult part of removing/replacing the wiring harness is routing all of the connectors through the hinge hole but everything will fit if you bring one connector through at a time. The plug for the power fold goes right below the yellow circle (Fig 7. Red).

Fig 7.

Once you have added the wiring for the power fold, reinstall the wiring harness. Wiring goes out of the hinge hole (Fig 8. Red) and loops through the hook circled in yellow, then off to each component.

Fig 8.


Ensure everything is plugged in, all connectors are unique so no issues with what goes where.
The grommet goes in the hole in Fig 9 underneath the gasket.

Fig 9.

Install the caps with ones that support the camera/puddle light plastic component. Reinstall the glass.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Thank You so much for the detailed guide. Highly appreciate you taking the time to post.
This will be a big help.

I am not sure if the XLT mirrors have the dimming feature as well.

What I am thinking is just move the camera (along with housing) and back cover from the XLT and put these into Lariat mirrors. Provided thats achievable.

Most probably will have to cut the white grommet.

It's snow and too cold here as well, plus my parts are still coming in, will update you when I start with this.

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[jhwalker]

Thank You so much for the detailed guide. Highly appreciate you taking the time to post.
This will be a big help.

I am not sure if the XLT mirrors have the dimming feature as well.

What I am thinking is just move the camera (along with housing) and back cover from the XLT and put these into Lariat mirrors. Provided thats achievable.

Most probably will have to cut the white grommet.

It's snow and too cold here as well, plus my parts are still coming in, will update you when I start with this.

Yep, just check that the wires are there for the XLT harness since you are using your existing components, and they have the functions. But the coax may be the easiest route. you could run that independent and just put a slice into the grommet to get it in. I wouldn't think that would cause any problems as installed the slice would be pushed closed. I think the coax connector will fit through the hinge hole.

 

[thunderf150]

Yep, just check that the wires are there for the XLT harness since you are using your existing components, and they have the functions. But the coax may be the easiest route. you could run that independent and just put a slice into the grommet to get it in. I wouldn't think that would cause any problems as installed the slice would be pushed closed. I think the coax connector will fit through the hinge hole.

Will update you when I am doing it.

For now I am starting to get blue screen just using the already installed back cam.

Haven’t even started any mods and this is freaking me out.

Scheduled a dealership visit coming week, so that everything is working before the install.

 

[Tlusk7]

Here is still what is happening: Either shifting to reverse or hitting the camera button shows the same thing (rear camera view). In reverse it also shows the guidelines. If I hit the options for the cameras menu nothing really changes except when I select the 360 option - the guidelines disappear and a magnifying glass shows up that can be used to zoom (I am guessing) because if I click on any of the pluses - nothing changes. I never get the top view of the truck. I have made the changes that are in your write up. That is what they are currently set to. I expect that the IPMA is not communicating with the other cameras. When I was trying to do the 360 calibration, I still had the U2101 DTC and have not had a chance to rerun the calibration due to snow/time. Also, since the changes my proximity sensors don't trip the view of the truck with the detection area but they do activate the camera (rearview regardless of the sensor location).

You may be best messaging me with pics. The calibrations cannot be done until you can see all of the cameras when you press your button. If any of them are blue the calibration will fail. It really sounds like the front cam may be the wrong one.

 

[Tlusk7]

Sorry, this took awhile due to snow.

F150 Gen 14 Mirror Assembly



Replace Cap Bing Videos

There is a slot behind the glass to insert a longer screwdriver from the bottom outside corner and twist the screwdriver to pop the glass off.

Fig 1.

This shows the guides to get the screwdriver into the slot to twist. First time is a little rough because it sounds bad coming off.

Following the above video, remove the glass and the cap. Be careful of the wires (BLIS is very small and can be pulled out of the plug).

Fig 2.

The plug needs to clear these prongs to come off of the mirror, the tab at the top of the picture is where the wire hooks into.

Fig 3.

This gasket (?) comes off just be careful not to rip it.

You should only have to disassemble anything that prevents removing the wiring harness on either mirror.

However, you may have to take the piece off in Fig 4. Be careful of the long tab because it will break off easily. The one in the picture is broken.

Fig 4.

If the new mirror assembly has all options except the power fold (as in the XLT – Not sure if the XLT has position sensors for memory see Fig 5 and check for the sensor wires), I would take the harness out of the XLT version and add the wiring for the fold motor if everything is populated except for the power fold wires. If they are not there you will have to run the coax to continue to have memory mirrors. The coax will be difficult to retrofit unless you don’t care about the grommet in Fig 6. You should be able to take this wiring off of the power fold harness (Lariat) including depinning at the connector (Fig 6. Exterior Mirror connector C521/C622 Blue).

Fig 5.

Fig 6 Red shows Power fold connector and thread them through the grommet (Fig 6 Yellow).

Fig 6.

Depinning and adding to the connector (Fig 6. Blue) should be covered in other postings. Each connector can differ.

The most difficult part of removing/replacing the wiring harness is routing all of the connectors through the hinge hole but everything will fit if you bring one connector through at a time. The plug for the power fold goes right below the yellow circle (Fig 7. Red).

Fig 7.

Once you have added the wiring for the power fold, reinstall the wiring harness. Wiring goes out of the hinge hole (Fig 8. Red) and loops through the hook circled in yellow, then off to each component.

Fig 8.


Ensure everything is plugged in, all connectors are unique so no issues with what goes where.
The grommet goes in the hole in Fig 9 underneath the gasket.

Fig 9.

Install the caps with ones that support the camera/puddle light plastic component. Reinstall the glass.

Let me know if you have any questions.

I have had A LOT of questions on doing this, I will gladly add it to my documentation and credit you if you don’t mind.

 

[jhwalker]

I have had A LOT of questions on doing this, I will gladly add it to my documentation and credit you if you don’t mind.

No problem. Let me know if I can help with any of the questions.

 

[jhwalker]

You may be best messaging me with pics. The calibrations cannot be done until you can see all of the cameras when you press your button. If any of them are blue the calibration will fail. It really sounds like the front cam may be the wrong one.

I am backing out most of my changes and will focus on the cameras. My thoughts may be a combination of the front and rear cameras since the rear has to change to show the hitch (mine doesn't). Right now the results are pretty binary: the "wrong" camera (250 or BEV or whatever it is associated with) only shows blue. The BB/BC camera shows when plugged into the rear port (as do all of the of the other cameras) but the IPMA will not switch cameras. I've not done the research yet to determine if there are other rear cameras (besides analog vs digital - mine is digital).

 

[jhwalker]

You may be best messaging me with pics. The calibrations cannot be done until you can see all of the cameras when you press your button. If any of them are blue the calibration will fail. It really sounds like the front cam may be the wrong one.

Here is what I see when I push the camera button:

Then if I select the Rear Option:

Then if I go back to the 360 view option and select the magnifying glass:

I have never seen any other displays with various Forscan settings. If I push the button again it goes back to the previous (non camera) screen. The only way I can see if the other cameras are working is to plug them into port #2 on the green connector. I have tried my other "NA" IPMA and it is pretty much the same except the camera button doesn't work but I can't PMI it either.

 

[Tlusk7]

I am backing out most of my changes and will focus on the cameras. My thoughts may be a combination of the front and rear cameras since the rear has to change to show the hitch (mine doesn't). Right now the results are pretty binary: the "wrong" camera (250 or BEV or whatever it is associated with) only shows blue. The BB/BC camera shows when plugged into the rear port (as do all of the of the other cameras) but the IPMA will not switch cameras. I've not done the research yet to determine if there are other rear cameras (besides analog vs digital - mine is digital).

The rear cam isn’t the problem, and the front has to talk to the rear they have to be essentially the same camera. Here is a link to a front cam. I offered this guy $110 awhile back and he was going to take it until I found and bought one for $50.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2664038311...J0DgtLYQQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[jhwalker]

The rear cam isn’t the problem, and the front has to talk to the rear they have to be essentially the same camera. Here is a link to a front cam. I offered this guy $110 awhile back and he was going to take it until I found and bought one for $50.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2664038311...J0DgtLYQQa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks for the reference. That is the camera I have installed in the front. But I have a couple of duplicates. I am going to try bypassing the coax that I have run to see if it is a wiring issue.

 

[thunderf150]

Will update you when I am doing it.

For now I am starting to get blue screen just using the already installed back cam.

Haven’t even started any mods and this is freaking me out.

Scheduled a dealership visit coming week, so that everything is working before the install.

Just updating the thread, my dealership is replacing the IPMA for this problem.

I just want to be good before performing any mods so they don't have an excuse.

Hopefully Will be done by the end of March.

Gonna need your support @jhwalker @Tlusk7

 

[thunderf150]

Thanks for the reference. That is the camera I have installed in the front. But I have a couple of duplicates. I am going to try bypassing the coax that I have run to see if it is a wiring issue.

Were you able to figure it out?

 

[The Saffa]

Hi All,
So totally new to this and will be studying you initial shares, thanks to @Tlusk7 and @Jesse-Infotainment.
I'm thinking about going down this road, I have never used Forscan but I'm pretty technical at heart, it will be a steep learning curve but not too scared.

Just thinking through the steps and not wanting to wage WW3 by avoiding the family responsibilities I'm planning on a stepped approach.

My current is a 2022 Lariat with 502A, to me it looks like I'll need a new IPMA(Will chat to Jesse on that). My thoughts
1.Purchase all the equipment (Camera's/wiring/IPMA etc)
2. Install badge and test with current IPMA (Remove reverse Cam to test)
3. Install Mirrors and IPMA
4. Install cargo camera
5. Change Forscan and PMI

My questions
1. Can I test using the reverse cam channel to start (As described above) with the current IPMA? Will this approach work?

2. If things go wrong can I roll back, i.e. can I unplug cameras change mirrors and plug the current IPMA and reverse camera back in (Without 360) assuming no changes in Forscan are made .i.e. rollback the install to original view.

3. Warranty concerns? since I still have a warranty thats valid...

 

[jhwalker]

Were you able to figure it out?

Still working on it. I was waiting for the "CBA" jumper between C316 and C1591. I have a duplicate set of coax and was tired of messing with my installed version. I have two extra ML3Z-19G490-BC cameras and one ML3Z-19G490-BB camera. When I did some initial testing the "BB" camera connected in as the front camera resulted in a washed out picture (although it is a washed out rear view). I just got the jumper today and will test over the weekend. I should have enough parts to isolate the issue or at least give you and @Jesse-Infotainment more information about what I am seeing. I've been running wires for front radar, cargo camera, etc.

 

[Tlusk7]

Hi All,
So totally new to this and will be studying you initial shares, thanks to @Tlusk7 and @Jesse-Infotainment.
I'm thinking about going down this road, I have never used Forscan but I'm pretty technical at heart, it will be a steep learning curve but not too scared.

Just thinking through the steps and not wanting to wage WW3 by avoiding the family responsibilities I'm planning on a stepped approach.

My current is a 2022 Lariat with 502A, to me it looks like I'll need a new IPMA(Will chat to Jesse on that). My thoughts
1.Purchase all the equipment (Camera's/wiring/IPMA etc)
2. Install badge and test with current IPMA (Remove reverse Cam to test)
3. Install Mirrors and IPMA
4. Install cargo camera
5. Change Forscan and PMI

My questions
1. Can I test using the reverse cam channel to start (As described above) with the current IPMA? Will this approach work?

2. If things go wrong can I roll back, i.e. can I unplug cameras change mirrors and plug the current IPMA and reverse camera back in (Without 360) assuming no changes in Forscan are made .i.e. rollback the install to original view.

3. Warranty concerns? since I still have a warranty thats valid...

Lot to touch on here, you don’t need to remove your rear camera for any reason.

Install badge and test? What does this mean?

You will not have to PMI the IPMA if you buy one from jesse. Yes you can revert back to original IPMA and read cam only.

There are no warranty concerns. If you run cargo cam and tap power from IPMA like I did you will be cutting into a harness. In order for a warranty concern they must prove the modification caused the issue. If the IPMA fails then yes they could easily say it’s because of your mods if they notice them, but these are factory parts and options. Ex. They can’t claim your motor isn’t under warranty because you did this.

As for question 1- i would imagine you can use the stock IPMA to test cameras if that’s what you want to try, by plugging cams into the rear camera port. But I don’t see why you would need to.

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