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How to charge properly.

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Ya I tried for a day until the battery tender said it was "charged" but it still failed to update. I'm sure its state of charge doing it, but I don't think the battery tender has enough current to change that unless I left it for days on end.
Question for you. When you have the Battery Tender connected are you leaving the hood open? Reason I asked is that another forum member mentioned that the truck will not do OTA updates with the hood open.
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Good question, I had the hood unlatched but not "open". However, after a longer trip with my trailer, the SOC went up enough apparently to do a couple OTA updates. Then I went on vacation for a week, and I am back to a level that isn't good enough to do the next OTA update.
 

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I have a battery maintainer on my truck and I also have the hood open. I still get OTA's when the Ford Gods remember to send my a tidbit just to bug me...lol
 

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I have a battery maintainer on my truck and I also have the hood open. I still get OTA's when the Ford Gods remember to send my a tidbit just to bug me...lol
That’s good. Maybe the person that posted that info was incorrect. However, I had mine on a Battery Tender for almost 3 weeks while on vacation, with the hood up. The day that I returned, I pulled it off the Tender and closed the hood. The next morning I had the most recent OTA installed on the truck. Coincidence? Probably. Perhaps it depends on other factors, not sure
 

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That’s good. Maybe the person that posted that info was incorrect. However, I had mine on a Battery Tender for almost 3 weeks while on vacation, with the hood up. The day that I returned, I pulled it off the Tender and closed the hood. The next morning I had the most recent OTA installed on the truck. Coincidence? Probably. Perhaps it depends on other factors, not sure
As you know or will find out, Ford has no set way it sends out OTA's that anyone has figured out. I would say it was a coincidence you got an OTA. The OTA was probably down loaded to your truck while you were away, hood open, and when you started the truck the update installed. I have tried both ways, hood open and hood open but used a screwdriver to close the latch on the truck to close the hood open switch. Makes no difference that I can see. Growing up with tin foil on the TV rabbit ears...might try that someday...LOL
 

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As you know or will find out, Ford has no set way it sends out OTA's that anyone has figured out. I would say it was a coincidence you got an OTA. The OTA was probably down loaded to your truck while you were away, hood open, and when you started the truck the update installed. I have tried both ways, hood open and hood open but used a screwdriver to close the latch on the truck to close the hood open switch. Makes no difference that I can see. Growing up with tin foil on the TV rabbit ears...might try that someday...LOL
You’re probably right
 

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Here is the best explanation on how to do it properly.
Thank you for posting this video.

So according to this, during manual FDRS updates, the negative should be connected behind the sensor and not to the ground screw near the battery.
 

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Good question, I had the hood unlatched but not "open". However, after a longer trip with my trailer, the SOC went up enough apparently to do a couple OTA updates. Then I went on vacation for a week, and I am back to a level that isn't good enough to do the next OTA update.
Unlatched is probably enough to stop updates. That you got OTA updates when out and about proves that the system is capable of receiving updates.

Try this: Buy a Charger that allows you to permanently add a connector at the battery end.
If need be, you can add an extension to the cable that runs to the charger. Secure the wire permanently in an accessible place as if it was an engine heater. Now you can plug it in without ever lifting the hood.
 

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No
Thank you for posting this video.

So according to this, during manual FDRS updates, the negative should be connected behind the sensor and not to the ground screw near the battery.
...I HAS to be to the ground screw on the top rail. DO NOT put it on the battery post.
 

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No

...I HAS to be to the ground screw on the top rail. DO NOT put it on the battery post.
So I may have misunderstood. He says that if it's not on that post (between the battery's negative and the sensor), the BMS won't recognize a charge. Isn't FDRS showing battery status which we need to maintain above 12V?
 

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So I may have misunderstood. He says that if it's not on that post (between the battery's negative and the sensor), the BMS won't recognize a charge. Isn't FDRS showing battery status which we need to maintain above 12V?
For the BCM to know the status of the battery, you need the sensor between the battery post and negative clamp. That sensor monitors the current in the cable.
 
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Resurrecting an old thread here. So new truck (2024) and new battery charger (Noco Genius5).

Connected to positive lead and the other side coming into the bms as per the video above. Charger indicates one red led, which is less than 25 percent charge? Seems awfully low. Truck drives and starts fine, though once in awhile I get the “f150 saved” message. I have one time got the “old chimes” when I started it, but they shortly went away…which was something my 2022 never did…seemed to have the old chimes for a few days on that one.

Am I doing something wrong here?
 

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The NOCO will always start with one red light, then 2, then 3, then green. Give it some time. First charge of new battery will take longer. Make sure you are on 12V AGM mode.
 
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So interesting that last night I checked it before bed, and it was up to "green". This morning, I went to remote start it, and of course it didn't start because the hood was open (and still on the charger). Forgive me, its early and the coffee had not taken effect yet lol.

When I went out to disconnect it, the noco stated it was back at less than 25% charge. (one red led). Could just the flashing of the lights caused such a big drop? Or at least enough to make the noco think the SOC was that low? What a "genius" the noco is lol. FWIW, the truck started and drove just fine, and was reporting "12V" when the auto start/stop kicked on, 14V when I was actually driving it.

Or do I need to leave it charging more? I did have it connected correctly, and set to 12V AGM.
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