How to charge properly.

[{tpc}]

Ok dumb question. What is the proper way of charging this battery in my 2022? I’m tired of the OTA failing.

I have a battery tender I use for my trailer battery’s but I think I bought it in 2006 or 2007. Do I need a better charger to top this thing off? Should I connect right to the battery or the hook the negative on the frame somewhere?

Sponsored

 

[{tpc}]

Guess I’m the first one to ask such a question

 

[UncleFester]

Here is the best explanation on how to do it properly.

 

[Kanuck]

To answer your question, the black wire is connected to the truck side of the current monitor. This way, the truck "SEES" the charge going into the truck. If connected to the battery post, the truck would possibly report a low battery condition and the OTA's would fail.
I have a Noco 5 connected to my truck when ever I park it in my garage. I keep my battery charged up all the time. Being retired, I may not drive my truck for a few days.

 

[Gros Ventre]

Once I changed out the OEM battery, the weird things stopped. I let the truck system charge the battery. A bit over two years now not a peep out of the system.

 

[Kanuck]

I don't have any weird things showing up, but I keep the battery charged up with the maintainer.

 

[Mladen5375]

Definitely not the first one to ask the question nor last. Search the forum, this has been covered numerous times

 

[Gutshot]

My 22 sits for a week or two sometimes before it’s driven again. I get deep sleep notifications, I have out a battery tender on it, which helped. But after watching the video above, I was connecting it wrong. I’ll now be connecting the black clip in the correct location.

 

[fmdog44]

I broke my ankle so I did not start the 2021 for six days and it was dead. Had to get it jumped.

 

[{tpc}]

Ya I tried for a day until the battery tender said it was "charged" but it still failed to update. I'm sure its state of charge doing it, but I don't think the battery tender has enough current to change that unless I left it for days on end.

 

[MetalCord]

Ya I tried for a day until the battery tender said it was "charged" but it still failed to update. I'm sure its state of charge doing it, but I don't think the battery tender has enough current to change that unless I left it for days on end.

Did you use the tender to charge the battery, or did you LEAVE THE TENDER CONNECTED while the update took place? If you didn't leave it connected, I recommend doing so.

 

[{tpc}]

Did you use the tender to charge the battery, or did you LEAVE THE TENDER CONNECTED while the update took place? If you didn't leave it connected, I recommend doing so.

Well as it worked out, I left the tender on overnight. It started red (charging) and then sometime the next day, I needed to use the truck so I removed it. At that time it had switched from red to green (charged).

The update should have gone through during that time, but it failed. I then proceeded to use the truck for the next couple hours. Every subsequent try has failed. But I am sure it is still a SOC issue, as I can't imagine the tender with its 1.25A capacity applied any meaningful charge. Last time I was at the dealer, they kept me there over 3 hours while they went through some updates, but told me at the beginning my battery was good but less than 80 percent SOC (or something like that). On the next cold weather day I got the "old chimes" indicating to me that the SOC had fallen yet again while the battery was cold.

They won't replace the battery because its still "good" just not at its full state of charge.

 

[Markv77]

Once I changed out the OEM battery, the weird things stopped. I let the truck system charge the battery. A bit over two years now not a peep out of the system.

Been battling low battery alerts and disabling of features since I bought the truck a month ago. I got Forscan going and did a bunch of long drives to top the battery off, but the OEM battery would report back SOC of high 40's. Put an Advanced Auto Die Hard H7 in and what a game changer. It had an initial SOC of 72% after install. I turned on the truck and let it idle for 20 minutes in driveway, and the SOC went to 87%. I did up the max SOC in forscan from 80 to 90%. If it can juice the new battery up 15% in 20 minutes, I feel much better about it charging the thing on shorter commutes and not feeling like this thing needs a battery tender. BTW, the OEM battery reported back healthy. Something is up with those OEM batteries.

 

[Gros Ventre]

Been battling low battery alerts and disabling of features since I bought the truck a month ago. I got Forscan going and did a bunch of long drives to top the battery off, but the OEM battery would report back SOC of high 40's. Put an Advanced Auto Die Hard H7 in and what a game changer. It had an initial SOC of 72% after install. I turned on the truck and let it idle for 20 minutes in driveway, and the SOC went to 87%. I did up the max SOC in forscan from 80 to 90%. If it can juice the new battery up 15% in 20 minutes, I feel much better about it charging the thing on shorter commutes and not feeling like this thing needs a battery tender. BTW, the OEM battery reported back healthy. Something is up with those OEM batteries.

Yeah... I cannot figure those OEM Batteries out. Best I got is the supplier to Ford got the alloying off or these were let sit for months out in the fields awaiting chips. Something else you can do is put in a "wetting down" charge. This is a low rate (~2 Amps) and let it go for hours. I know of those that make a big deal of which side of that negative battery terminal so that the computer knows... I wasn't smart enough when I swapped out my battery and so ignored that. Didn't even tell the computer that a new battery was put in... I just did a 4 1/2 day sit in cold weather (~20ºF at night). Not a peep out of the battery. BTW a wetting down charge initially ensures all active materials are properly set up (battery dealers don't do this because it takes time). My battery (a NAPA Off the shelf type) took some 10 hours before the current went to almost zero. ...And yeah, I took my OEM battery back to the dealer who tested it and voila! it was Good. Still have it but won't reinstall it. ;-)

 

[Gros Ventre]

Did some homework... Have been working to make sense of the system voltages I observe on my installed digital voltmeter. Attached is a screen shot of a wikipedia page discussing Lead Acid Batteries. I knew there was a relationship between float voltage and temperature. This screen shot shows it. I had long said I couldn't make sense of the Ford programming. Well it turns out they are following the specified relationship. What seemed to be throwing me is in cold weather the voltage remains higher than I'd expect it. On long trips where I'm sure the engine compartment heats up the voltage remains high. So I conclude the temperature sensor is in a location that remains cold. If you run these numbers per the formula, you can come up with 15.1VDC in very cold weather (EG -20ºF or so).

Sponsored