Harsh Shifting after fluid change

[foofoodar]

I have a 2021 powerboost, had the dealer flush the transmission fluid with around 70,000 miles, they said they don't do drain and fills, and the filter isn't meant to be changed unless the trans needs a rebuild.

Now I have about 72,000 miles on the truck, and from 1-3 it can be anywhere from a normal shift to a slight bump, to a harsh jerk, 3-4 sometimes has a loss of power before engaging. Putting the truck in tow mode the 1-2 shift also results in a huge delay and harsh shift. Some of the higher gears when downshifting are also a bit harsh.

I of course went back to the dealer, left the truck with them for 2 days for them to only tell me they didn't notice anything on the test drive, so I went in and did a test drive with the manager, and magically it didn't act near as bad as it normally does, and the manager had all kinds of excuses of that's normal, the trans isn't warmed up yet, etc, and the moment I drive away and go home I get some harsh shifts...

I am kind of wondering if I need to have a drain and fill performed with a filter change, not sure if the filter could be clogged? I used FDRS, updated to the latest PCM update, cleared the tables, and while it seems a little better, it still has issues, so I figured I'd post here to see what everybody else thinks?

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[Ford Motor Company]

I have a 2021 powerboost, had the dealer flush the transmission fluid with around 70,000 miles, they said they don't do drain and fills, and the filter isn't meant to be changed unless the trans needs a rebuild.

Now I have about 72,000 miles on the truck, and from 1-3 it can be anywhere from a normal shift to a slight bump, to a harsh jerk, 3-4 sometimes has a loss of power before engaging. Putting the truck in tow mode the 1-2 shift also results in a huge delay and harsh shift. Some of the higher gears when downshifting are also a bit harsh.

I of course went back to the dealer, left the truck with them for 2 days for them to only tell me they didn't notice anything on the test drive, so I went in and did a test drive with the manager, and magically it didn't act near as bad as it normally does, and the manager had all kinds of excuses of that's normal, the trans isn't warmed up yet, etc, and the moment I drive away and go home I get some harsh shifts...

I am kind of wondering if I need to have a drain and fill performed with a filter change, not sure if the filter could be clogged? I used FDRS, updated to the latest PCM update, cleared the tables, and while it seems a little better, it still has issues, so I figured I'd post here to see what everybody else thinks?

Good afternoon. Would you please send over a private message with your VIN and dealer info so I can look into this shifting concern on my end?

 

[foofoodar]

Good afternoon. Would you please send over a private message with your VIN and dealer info so I can look into this shifting concern on my end?

I just sent over the info you requested, thanks for looking into it for me, if you need anything else let me know!

 

[HANCOCK]

The 10r80 transmission is a piece of junk . Very sensitive transmission. A qualified service technician should flush and refill the transmission. You should change the filter at the same interval .

 

[FORDTEXAS]

i would’ve opted for drain n fill and filter as well.

 

[SALEEN961]

I always prefer to do a drain and refill. On the older 6R80 and 6HP transmissions, I often found that the filter o-ring wasn't sealing well, the tube seals between the valve body and the case would start leaking, and the adapter seal would leak/crack. Obviously there are other o-rings and seals that could also fail, but replacing those seals and getting fresh ATF into the transmission has fixed more than one 6HP/6R80 that was written off as a lost cause.

On those transmissions the big issues were delayed engagement, slipping, and TCC shudder. I had vehicles come in that couldn't move under their own power, nothing but neutrals, and they left driving great with no codes after just doing a service and replacing some seals. I always want the opportunity to inspect and replace any seals that are easily accessed while the pan is removed, especially before jumping to a full rebuild.

That all being said, the CDF drum bushing issue on the 10R80 does make me question how much time and money I want to invest into maintaining mine. I might be better off saving my money for a new 10R80 with all the updated parts, but I'm still debating it.

 

[PB2021]

Not sure I understand a dealer suggesting the filter doesn’t require changing. They would never suggest doing an oil change and reusing the filter.

 

[jhelrey]

I've only drained, replaced the filter, and replaced the fluid. Anything more and you are asking for issues.

 

[Trem0r1]

I had the same hard shifting issues with my 21 powerboost and it ended up being that my transmission fluid was needing to be changed badly. Make sure they used the correct ULV transmission oil and topped off to the correct amount in your truck. Oil level needs to be between 3-4 on the dipstick in the powerboost transmission when up to temp and engine running. I used Valvoline Full Synthetic ULV and a 2 oz tube of Lube Guard Instant shudder fix in my truck when I drained and refilled myself. My truck shifts so smooth now that it feels better than new at almost 98k miles.

 

[foofoodar]

I had the same hard shifting issues with my 21 powerboost and it ended up being that my transmission fluid was needing to be changed badly. Make sure they used the correct ULV transmission oil and topped off to the correct amount in your truck. Oil level needs to be between 3-4 on the dipstick in the powerboost transmission when up to temp and engine running. I used Valvoline Full Synthetic ULV and a 2 oz tube of Lube Guard Instant shudder fix in my truck when I drained and refilled myself. My truck shifts so smooth now that it feels better than new at almost 98k miles.

did you drop the pan and change the filter as well or no?

 

[Trem0r1]

did you drop the pan and change the filter as well or no?

Yes I did. That’s where I learned that I had to remove the exhaust down pipe to get a bolt out of transmission filter. Filter has 2 bolts, one is short and comes out with ease, second bolt is about 5-6 inches long and hit directly in the center of exhaust crossover pipe under transmission. There were also 2 small rubber hose pipes that go into the valve body and seal to the filter. Luckily I saw them fall out when I removed my filter. It’s obvious where they go since I saw them fall but I’m sure they can easily be missed and filter won’t seal correctly

 

[foofoodar]

I'm thinking about just going in this weekend and having them drop the pan and do a fluid and filter change and inspect since they will have the pan dropped to make sure there isn't a large amount of metal shavings or anything crazy, wondering if they didn't put the right amount of fluid back in when they flushed it...

 

[Jerome10]

I'm no mechanic but I've always been told to change your filter, especially the first flush.

Is it possible it is under or over-filled?

 

[foofoodar]

I went to the dealer this morning and depending on how you want to look at it, I got the right advisor, who got me to the right tech, who test drove my truck, and came back to tell me "Your transmission is f'd"

I will know more on Monday, but it looks like I'm either getting a new transmission or an overhauling of mine. For now, they gave me a loaner.

Here is a picture of it stuck in 4th gear at a stop light...when I finally get to moving 1-2-3-4 go back and forth like a twinkling Christmas tree trying to decide what gear to ram into...

 

[Henfield]

For those unfamiliar with the fluid change process on the 10R80, watch this:

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