Few Questions About My Skid Plate Install

[moonlanderadventures]

I installed an RCI transmission skid on my 2021 F-150 along with a Ronin drain plug to make oil changes a bit easier along with adding some underbody protection (goodbye trash diaper). I purchased some anti-seize lubricant as well for the bolts.

My two questions are:

A) I've never used anti-seize before, do I apply a very small amount on the threads or be generous with it?
B) I hand torqued the bolts with a rachet to what "felt" good i.e. not too tight not too loose. Is there an (inexpensive) tool I can use that would tell me exactly how many ft-lbs the bolt is torqued to?

I'm familiar with basic tools/fasteners, but still consider myself a newbie. I am a bit ambitious and willing to try and install things myself that don't appear too complex or destructive. I just want to make sure it's installed to specs and if the transmission needs to be serviced, the bolts won't be seized up down the road.

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[Goldeneye36]

I've never used anti-seize on body parts, mainly spark plugs. As far as torquing down bolts goes, unless it's something critical like suspension, brakes, or major engine parts (cylinder heads or manifolds), etc... the old German spec of "gudinteit" has always worked well for me.

That being said, if you are getting more serious about doing your own work, buying a torque wrench or 2 from your favorite auto parts store is worthwhile. I don't do the other jobs mentioned often, but I use mine every time I rotate the tires to be on the safe side ever since that one time a less-experienced teenaged version of me over torqued and stripped out some studs on my truck and almost lost a wheel.

 

[moonlanderadventures]

I've never used anti-seize on body parts, mainly spark plugs. As far as torquing down bolts goes, unless it's something critical like suspension, brakes, or major engine parts (cylinder heads or manifolds), etc... the old German spec of "gudinteit" has always worked well for me.

That being said, if you are getting more serious about doing your own work, buying a torque wrench or 2 from your favorite auto parts store is worthwhile. I don't do the other jobs mentioned often, but I use mine every time I rotate the tires to be on the safe side ever since that one time a less-experienced teenaged version of me over torqued and stripped out some studs on my truck and almost lost a wheel.

Thanks for the feedback. I had read up on some other forums (4runner for example) that they recommended anti-seize for skid plate bolts if you were going to be in some off-road conditions, and to reduce torque by around 25% or so since it changes the values a bit. I just realized though that I can never know what 25% is UNLESS I get a torque wrench, otherwise I'm just guessing. I read that you don't want anti-seize on critical applications and in those cases you need a torque wrench or you will have a bad time. For some context I plan to full time travel out of my F-150 in my Moonlander so I'll only have a small subset of tools on me. Whatever I work on is likely just top end/surface level simple stuff, so I'm thinking about skipping the anti-seize and returning it for now and going without the torque wrench. Based on some additional research I did, they are calibration devices so they lose accuracy over time, and likely the digital ones I'm willing to bet are cheap Chinese crap. Snap On is willing to sell me one for just my first born child so NO THANK YOU lol. I have heard of some people who just use a tool/device one time, then abuse the return policy, but I'm not that sinister yet lol.

 

[Trainmaster]

Here where they use salt on the roads, anti-seize is a must for anything that's exposed and has to be removed ten years from now. Just put a dab on the threads... You'll be thankful when the bolts just spin right off ten years from now...

 

[Shane150]

I haven't used the silver paste anti-seize on my skid plate bolts but I apply Fluid Film to them once a year or every other year. I tighten them without a torque wrench, though I check them once a year to make sure they're not loose. If I were to torque them I would use 18 ft-lb on allen bolts and 21 ft-lb on hex bolts. One more thing to bare in mind is to reduce your torque values by 20-25% if using any lubrication on the bolts because lubricated threads reduce friction, meaning the same torque produces more clamping force.

 

[moonlanderadventures]

I just bought a luggage scale which I am going to attach to my ratchet to torque the bolts to spec (30 ft lbs)

Torque (ft-lbs)=Force (lbs)×Lever arm length (ft)×sin(θ)

sin(θ) is perpendicular angle
length of handle is only 6 inches from the socket so I have to double my result to equal a "foot lb"

The length from the socket to the part of the handle I grab onto the ratchet is 6 inches. So all I have to do is attach the luggage scale and at a perpendicular angle torque it to 60 lbs on the scale because 60/2= 30

 

[PatchManager]

I have the full skid plate set from Talon Garage, so I assume the hardware is similar. I chose not to use anti-seize. I just make sure everything is tight at every oil change, and I have never come across a bolt that was loose. I do use a torque wrench for many things, but not the skid plates. I just make sure they are tight. I've had the skid plates for over 30k miles with some off road and I've had zero issues.

 

[moonlanderadventures]

I have the full skid plate set from Talon Garage, so I assume the hardware is similar. I chose not to use anti-seize. I just make sure everything is tight at every oil change, and I have never come across a bolt that was loose. I do use a torque wrench for many things, but not the skid plates. I just make sure they are tight. I've had the skid plates for over 30k miles with some off road and I've had zero issues.

Good tip! Validating/re-torquing them for peace of mind is a great idea, thank you. Funny you mention this. I have a Moonlander camper shell that is C-clamped to the bed rails, so I have to validate/check the clamps anyways. I subconsciously knew I had to do that as well, but never put the two and two together. Road vibrations are going to loosen things eventually anyways so anti-seize is not as necessary as one would think. Probably better off checking every oil change anyways! Love it. Thanks brother!

 

[Trainmaster]

Here in the northeast, these nuts rust in about ten years onto the bolts if no anti-seize is used. Then when you try loosening the bolt, the cage nut breaks loose and spins round-n-round and you need a Sawzall or grinder to cut the bolts off. I always use the nickel stuff.

If you use opt to save a few bucks by using the Chinese bolts that are plated with silver spray paint instead of zinc, they'll rust in two years.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

Thanks for the feedback. I had read up on some other forums (4runner for example) that they recommended anti-seize for skid plate bolts if you were going to be in some off-road conditions, and to reduce torque by around 25% or so since it changes the values a bit. I just realized though that I can never know what 25% is UNLESS I get a torque wrench, otherwise I'm just guessing. I read that you don't want anti-seize on critical applications and in those cases you need a torque wrench or you will have a bad time. For some context I plan to full time travel out of my F-150 in my Moonlander so I'll only have a small subset of tools on me. Whatever I work on is likely just top end/surface level simple stuff, so I'm thinking about skipping the anti-seize and returning it for now and going without the torque wrench. Based on some additional research I did, they are calibration devices so they lose accuracy over time, and likely the digital ones I'm willing to bet are cheap Chinese crap. Snap On is willing to sell me one for just my first born child so NO THANK YOU lol. I have heard of some people who just use a tool/device one time, then abuse the return policy, but I'm not that sinister yet lol.

be generous with it. Brush it onto the threads, completely coating them.

 

[FaaWrenchBndr]

Good tip! Validating/re-torquing them for peace of mind is a great idea, thank you. Funny you mention this. I have a Moonlander camper shell that is C-clamped to the bed rails, so I have to validate/check the clamps anyways. I subconsciously knew I had to do that as well, but never put the two and two together. Road vibrations are going to loosen things eventually anyways so anti-seize is not as necessary as one would think. Probably better off checking every oil change anyways! Love it. Thanks brother!

road vibrations are not gonna loosen that hardware. One of those nut clips as a thread locking feature. They’re not gonna loosen. Your problem will be corrosion and trying to remove them. You don’t want to snap the tab off those nut clips.

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